When I first got the car I installed the eibach pro kit and lowered the car 1.5 inches. Ever since then the 60ft. averaged 2.25 <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" /> . So this weekend we installed the factory SS springs back on the car and managed a 2.05 on wore out nittos. Still some there on a fresh set of nittos. Going to install an adjustable torque arm what should I set the pinion angle at and which torque arm should I go with? Night and day difference between the two sets of springs. Got to learn to launch all over again now that the suspension is working properly. <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />

 

I would start small (with pinion angle settings) and set it at either 0 or 1 degree and would probably not exceed 2 degrees (with 3 as an absolute maximum...if you feel that you must....). Too much pinion angle will wear U-joints and cause binding in the driveshaft, too little and you will not hook. I'd be cautious and stay at a max of 2 degrees if it were me. Lets see what everyone else is running for pinion angle? Just my thoughts.....good luck!

 

You mean negative right. What brand of torque arm the bmr or slp?

 

I was going to get an adj. TA but decided to check my stock pinion angles first. It was at -3 degrees already. Gonna keep the stocker for a while longer now (until it breaks or I have extra for the BMR TA).

 

Sounds like you didn't have LCA relocation
brackets added after the lowering springs,
at least you don't mention it, and going back
to stock springs puts you back to a better
LCA angle. Before you dollar down on a torque
arm, if you haven't put on relo brackets you
should try those; go with the bolt-ons and
you can resell them if you find them ineffective.
But this is the piece that's meant to give you
traction improvement by forcing the wheels to
plant and the body to rise, instead of the other
way around.

The torque arm's effect on pinion angle is
more a reliability and U-joint bind/scrub
issue than an instant center modifier.

At stock ride height you shouldn't need any
torque arm adjustment, at least not $300-$500
worth <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />

 

Yes, infact I had the bmr weld in lca brackets and the bmr control arms also.

 

Any difference when you put relo. bracket on a stock vehicle?

 

Yes I could tell a difference. The car seems to plant harder than before.