My Rearend feels like it is moving side to side. WHY? Please HELP!
08-30-2006, 08:20 AM
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My Rearend feels like it is moving side to side. WHY? Please HELP! I just bought this car. It is a Pontiac 2000 Formula with 104,000 miles on it. When I am driving in the car it feels like my rearend is moving back & fourth. Also if I hit the breaks real hard, It really jerks the rearend. I feel like I have to wrestle the steering wheel. The car is no fun to drive.
I have stock Suspension. I bought some UMI Lower Control Arms. Just have not installed them yet. Will that fix the problem. If not. What do I need to do to fix this. I thought F-Bodys where known for their Handling. I know the car has alot of miles & maybe my bushings are shot.
What will fix my problem?
Also I have 275 tires up front. So does this also add to my issue?
Thanks guys for all your help.
Sebastian.
I have stock Suspension. I bought some UMI Lower Control Arms. Just have not installed them yet. Will that fix the problem. If not. What do I need to do to fix this. I thought F-Bodys where known for their Handling. I know the car has alot of miles & maybe my bushings are shot.
What will fix my problem?
Also I have 275 tires up front. So does this also add to my issue?
Thanks guys for all your help.
Sebastian.
08-30-2006, 08:31 AM
#2
I would start with something basic...check your tire pressures. Secondly, with that many miles, some of the bushings are probably pretty tired. Look to change the panhard bar and/or its bushings next.
If your (275) tires up front are wider than your rear tires, that might also be a contributing factor. You might also want to consider having the wheel alignment checked.
If your (275) tires up front are wider than your rear tires, that might also be a contributing factor. You might also want to consider having the wheel alignment checked.
08-30-2006, 08:32 AM
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The control arms may help, if your stock bushings are bad. I would look into an aftermarket panhard rod. My stock one allowed my rear end to hop over bumps (w only 22k). Also, Its said 100 times a day here, cause its true. Stock shocks on these cars are the weak point. Hopefully yours aren't stock w 104k. Either way, I can tell you from personal experience that a rod ended panhard bar and Koni SA rear shocks made my car immeasurably better. It rides smoother, and feels glued to the road. The difference was also noted on my car in before and after road course action.
08-30-2006, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I would start with something basic...check your tire pressures. Secondly, with that many miles, some of the bushings are probably pretty tired. Look to change the panhard bar and/or its bushings next.
If your (275) tires up front are wider than your rear tires, that might also be a contributing factor. You might also want to consider having the wheel alignment checked.
If your (275) tires up front are wider than your rear tires, that might also be a contributing factor. You might also want to consider having the wheel alignment checked.
The car has 275 Up front & BFG 315 Drag Radials out back. Also had a wheel Alignment done on the car & the car is straight as a arrow up front. I think I may need to check out a PANHARD BAR. As that my panhard bar is stock.
Also I drag race this car on the weekend & still have all the stock suspension on it. I think the 1.6 60fts have taken their toll on all the bushings in my stock Lowers & Panard Bar & Torqe Arm,
Sometime's when I WOT the car. I feel a clunk from under the car. Sounds like my Torqe Arm or Trans mount.
08-30-2006, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by subtlez28
The control arms may help, if your stock bushings are bad. I would look into an aftermarket panhard rod. My stock one allowed my rear end to hop over bumps (w only 22k). Also, Its said 100 times a day here, cause its true. Stock shocks on these cars are the weak point. Hopefully yours aren't stock w 104k. Either way, I can tell you from personal experience that a rod ended panhard bar and Koni SA rear shocks made my car immeasurably better. It rides smoother, and feels glued to the road. The difference was also noted on my car in before and after road course action.
I am now really going to consider a Panhard Bar for my car. I want to stay with UMI. So which Panhard is the best for handling & racing. They have a stock replacemnt one that is red & it is $99 & they have a Adjustable one that is $129, But you have to take it off the car to adjust it. Then they have the one you can Adjust on your car with out taking it off & it is $169? Which will give me the best handling
I want to enjoy driving my car again.
08-30-2006, 08:43 AM
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For the clunk at WOT, I'd look at the tranny mount first. Get under there with a prybar and try to lever the transmission away from the crossmember. The rubber on those mounts likes to separate, and at WOT the engine rocks the tranny into the tunnel (that's the clunking). Stock replacement mounts are expensive, like $120, but an aftermarket mount such as energy suspension are closer to $20 and are much stronger. However, since they're polyurethane instead of rubber, they don't flex as much so they transmit more vibration. You'll notice it, but it usually isn't terrible.
08-30-2006, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Onebad99TA
For the clunk at WOT, I'd look at the tranny mount first. Get under there with a prybar and try to lever the transmission away from the crossmember. The rubber on those mounts likes to separate, and at WOT the engine rocks the tranny into the tunnel (that's the clunking). Stock replacement mounts are expensive, like $120, but an aftermarket mount such as energy suspension are closer to $20 and are much stronger. However, since they're polyurethane instead of rubber, they don't flex as much so they transmit more vibration. You'll notice it, but it usually isn't terrible.
Also can I run a Aftermarket Torqe Arm that is Adjustable with True 3inch Duals?
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08-30-2006, 09:07 AM
#8
QA1s are drag shocks. You may well not like them for the street. as a matter of fact, if you're looking for handling, I'd bet on it. If you drive it on the street and have no plans to lower - get Bilstein HDs. If you want the best a reasonable amount of cash will buy, get the Koni SAs. This one mod alone will make your car a different animal. Do this FIRST.
If the rear is still moving laterally and this is your main concern, get a package deal on LCAs and adj. PHB. I recommend UMI pieces through Sam Strano www.stranoparts.com
Call him. I'd look into UMI's torque arms also.
The clunking is probably your exhaust. Do poly tranny and motor mounts and that will likely take care of it.
If you don't do shocks first, you are cheating yourself. Been there, done that...
If the rear is still moving laterally and this is your main concern, get a package deal on LCAs and adj. PHB. I recommend UMI pieces through Sam Strano www.stranoparts.com
Call him. I'd look into UMI's torque arms also.
The clunking is probably your exhaust. Do poly tranny and motor mounts and that will likely take care of it.
If you don't do shocks first, you are cheating yourself. Been there, done that...
08-30-2006, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jmilz28
QA1s are drag shocks. You may well not like them for the street. as a matter of fact, if you're looking for handling, I'd bet on it. If you drive it on the street and have no plans to lower - get Bilstein HDs. If you want the best a reasonable amount of cash will buy, get the Koni SAs. This one mod alone will make your car a different animal. Do this FIRST.
If the rear is still moving laterally and this is your main concern, get a package deal on LCAs and adj. PHB. I recommend UMI pieces through Sam Strano www.stranoparts.com
Call him. I'd look into UMI's torque arms also.
The clunking is probably your exhaust. Do poly tranny and motor mounts and that will likely take care of it.
If you don't do shocks first, you are cheating yourself. Been there, done that...
If the rear is still moving laterally and this is your main concern, get a package deal on LCAs and adj. PHB. I recommend UMI pieces through Sam Strano www.stranoparts.com
Call him. I'd look into UMI's torque arms also.
The clunking is probably your exhaust. Do poly tranny and motor mounts and that will likely take care of it.
If you don't do shocks first, you are cheating yourself. Been there, done that...
Thanks man for the tips & I really appreciate it. It sounds like from your advice that the Shocks is my main culpret & reaplcing those with some normal shocks should cure most of my problem & if not. Get a Panhard bar & this will sure sure fix it.
I have UMI Lower Control Arms in a box that I have not installed. They are the non adjustable lowers,
What will a TQ Arm do for me with my car.
I have already ordered the QA1's. But you think the QA1's will not fix the problem?
08-30-2006, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
BFG drag radials have very soft side walls. They feel very "squirmey" at low air pressures, like what you'd use to help hook off the line.
08-30-2006, 12:08 PM
#12
Start with shocks first. I got the Bilsteins and they helped BIG time, different car. Better all the way around but I am starting to think I may should have gotten the Konis... 
FWIW, shocks alone made as much or more of a difference in my car's "handling" than all my other mods combined. Check here for specifics:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/554481-bilstein-hd-review-past-impressions-other-mods.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/566953-review-air-lift-1000-helper-rear-springs-thanks-sam.html
BTW, do you have a converter? I'm not a big drag racer but 1.6 60 ft times on an all stock suspension seems excellent but not doable without some serious power and/or tires and/or converter. You have the tires for it...converter seems the most probable.
A torque arm will help with traction and brake dive. This is my next suspension mod.
Be sure to get the adjustable PHB with your wheel/tire setup.
FWIW, shocks alone made as much or more of a difference in my car's "handling" than all my other mods combined. Check here for specifics:https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/554481-bilstein-hd-review-past-impressions-other-mods.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/566953-review-air-lift-1000-helper-rear-springs-thanks-sam.html
BTW, do you have a converter? I'm not a big drag racer but 1.6 60 ft times on an all stock suspension seems excellent but not doable without some serious power and/or tires and/or converter. You have the tires for it...converter seems the most probable.
A torque arm will help with traction and brake dive. This is my next suspension mod.
Be sure to get the adjustable PHB with your wheel/tire setup.
08-30-2006, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jmilz28
Start with shocks first. I got the Bilsteins and they helped BIG time, different car. Better all the way around but I am starting to think I may should have gotten the Konis... FWIW, shocks alone made as much or more of a difference in my car's "handling" than all my other mods combined. Check here for specifics:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=554481
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566953
BTW, do you have a converter? I'm not a big drag racer but 1.6 60 ft times on an all stock suspension seems excellent but not doable without some serious power and/or tires and/or converter. You have the tires for it...converter seems the most probable.
A torque arm will help with traction and brake dive. This is my next suspension mod.
Be sure to get the adjustable PHB with your wheel/tire setup.
FWIW, shocks alone made as much or more of a difference in my car's "handling" than all my other mods combined. Check here for specifics:https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=554481
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566953
BTW, do you have a converter? I'm not a big drag racer but 1.6 60 ft times on an all stock suspension seems excellent but not doable without some serious power and/or tires and/or converter. You have the tires for it...converter seems the most probable.
A torque arm will help with traction and brake dive. This is my next suspension mod.
Be sure to get the adjustable PHB with your wheel/tire setup.
Sam made it very clear that why my car 60fts so hard is becasue I have what QA1 is. I worn out shock that depress's when I launch the car & also why my car has a ton of Body roll & rearend movement.
I am going to be buying the Koni's & the Double Adjustable Panhard Bar that Sam sugessted, He said the Koni's & PanHard Bar should make my car feel like a new car that is completly diffrent from the car I drive now.
As to your question on my 60fts. I have a Yank PT 4400 Converter with BFG 315 Drag Radials & my best 60ft on this Stock Suspension & I mean STOCK, Stock Shocks Lowers Panhard & TQ Arm are all stock & my best 60ft on that is 1.63 60ft. My car launchs very good on the suspension. But I hate drivng the car to the track & when I want to drive it to work. The car is only good for the track & that's it.
I assume my 60fts will suffer alot with the Koni's, But I am willing to trade 1.6 60fts all day long for mid 1.7 60fts to have a car I feel safe driving. Also my car has 104,000 miles on that Stock Suspension. So I can't wait to see how it feels after the new Koni's
SAM I WILL BE IN TOUCH SOON!
Sebastian.
08-30-2006, 12:58 PM
#14
Originally Posted by 1bad93lx
I read your thread about the Koni's, I also took your advie on Strano's & called them. I spoke to Sam. What a nice guy this guy is. He took 30 mins of his day to explain to me how shocks work. I had my wife send the QA1's back & to get a refund on them since they have not arrvied at my house.
Sam made it very clear that why my car 60fts so hard is becasue I have what QA1 is. I worn out shock that depress's when I launch the car & also why my car has a ton of Body roll & rearend movement.
I am going to be buying the Koni's & the Double Adjustable Panhard Bar that Sam sugessted, He said the Koni's & PanHard Bar should make my car feel like a new car that is completly diffrent from the car I drive now.
As to your question on my 60fts. I have a Yank PT 4400 Converter with BFG 315 Drag Radials & my best 60ft on this Stock Suspension & I mean STOCK, Stock Shocks Lowers Panhard & TQ Arm are all stock & my best 60ft on that is 1.63 60ft. My car launchs very good on the suspension. But I hate drivng the car to the track & when I want to drive it to work. The car is only good for the track & that's it.
I assume my 60fts will suffer alot with the Koni's, But I am willing to trade 1.6 60fts all day long for mid 1.7 60fts to have a car I feel safe driving. Also my car has 104,000 miles on that Stock Suspension. So I can't wait to see how it feels after the new Koni's
SAM I WILL BE IN TOUCH SOON!
Sebastian.
Sam made it very clear that why my car 60fts so hard is becasue I have what QA1 is. I worn out shock that depress's when I launch the car & also why my car has a ton of Body roll & rearend movement.
I am going to be buying the Koni's & the Double Adjustable Panhard Bar that Sam sugessted, He said the Koni's & PanHard Bar should make my car feel like a new car that is completly diffrent from the car I drive now.
As to your question on my 60fts. I have a Yank PT 4400 Converter with BFG 315 Drag Radials & my best 60ft on this Stock Suspension & I mean STOCK, Stock Shocks Lowers Panhard & TQ Arm are all stock & my best 60ft on that is 1.63 60ft. My car launchs very good on the suspension. But I hate drivng the car to the track & when I want to drive it to work. The car is only good for the track & that's it.
I assume my 60fts will suffer alot with the Koni's, But I am willing to trade 1.6 60fts all day long for mid 1.7 60fts to have a car I feel safe driving. Also my car has 104,000 miles on that Stock Suspension. So I can't wait to see how it feels after the new Koni's
SAM I WILL BE IN TOUCH SOON!
Sebastian.
Handling-wise, your car will be a BEAST with the Koni SA's and DA panhard bar(rod), you will not regret it.
08-30-2006, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1bad93lx
These are 315/ (35) /17 I run them at 40psi on the street & with the 35 sidewall. They are actually a pretty low profile tire.
08-31-2006, 08:41 AM
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I think you are on the right track w the Koni SAs and UMI PHR. You'll C these parts in my sig, also at Strano's suggestion. I have to agree that he provides great service.
Only one warning, you cannot adjust the PHB on the car, as the car's mounts don't give you room to get wrenches in there. If I had it to do over again I would save $ and get a single adjustable. Its pretty easy to drop the PHB anyway, and you won't have to adjust it once its right (unless you alter ride hieght).
Also I gotta 2nd the soft sidewall of the drag radial being a possible issue. Drag tires have soft sidewalls for thier intended purpose. Even though they have a 35 profile and 40psi, they will/should flex much more than a typical handling oriented tire.
Only one warning, you cannot adjust the PHB on the car, as the car's mounts don't give you room to get wrenches in there. If I had it to do over again I would save $ and get a single adjustable. Its pretty easy to drop the PHB anyway, and you won't have to adjust it once its right (unless you alter ride hieght).
Also I gotta 2nd the soft sidewall of the drag radial being a possible issue. Drag tires have soft sidewalls for thier intended purpose. Even though they have a 35 profile and 40psi, they will/should flex much more than a typical handling oriented tire.
