DRAG/Good handling car? I need both, imput needed
#1
DRAG/Good handling car? I need both, imput needed
Ok so my car was setup for drag, but I would like to be able to take some turns, and not be scared of a spirted drive other than straight line.
Im looking for somthing thats double duty, and can be used with both
Right now it has QALs drag coil overs up front, with no front sway bar etc so im going to either ditch them or somthing
Im picking up control arms, and trying to fig out what sway bars to go with
Whats a good double duty setup guys? I want to Track it to the strip but still be able to not feel like im going to die on the highway.
Im looking for somthing thats double duty, and can be used with both
Right now it has QALs drag coil overs up front, with no front sway bar etc so im going to either ditch them or somthing
Im picking up control arms, and trying to fig out what sway bars to go with
Whats a good double duty setup guys? I want to Track it to the strip but still be able to not feel like im going to die on the highway.
#3
I have heard good things about the QA1 12 way shocks for drag and road racing. Im going to use those with the coil overs in the front, adj t/a, adj panhard bar, adj trailing arms, and trailing arm relocation mounts
#6
i think u want some input, not imput. ha, jus given u a hard time Joe.
he jus traded for this car and the previous owner gutted it (2900lbs), put on front coilovers, and removed the front sway bar.
he jus wants a nice street suspension that wont fall on its face at the drag strip. lookin to cut jus under 1.7 60' on 315 Nitto DR's.
i think i've heard of people keepin the stock shocks and gettin jus some lowering springs and it working out well for them. i could be wrong? what would be best for this guy on a budget?
he jus traded for this car and the previous owner gutted it (2900lbs), put on front coilovers, and removed the front sway bar.
he jus wants a nice street suspension that wont fall on its face at the drag strip. lookin to cut jus under 1.7 60' on 315 Nitto DR's.
i think i've heard of people keepin the stock shocks and gettin jus some lowering springs and it working out well for them. i could be wrong? what would be best for this guy on a budget?
#7
Originally Posted by slick1851
Im looking for somone that has a double duty sus setup. Any help would be nice...
You can't road race with a drag race setup (as you've learned). Drag race setups are somewhat scary (some are really scary) in the twistys.
The specifics of handling and drag racing are polar opposites. A performance handling application seeks to minimize body roll and weight transfer while stabilizing the center of gravity. A drag race setup seeks to allow maximum weight transfer to the rear while letting the front come up and allowing the center of gravity to move considerably.
Trying to setup a car to do both is not easy. You're going to have to compromise somewhere along the line. HAL shocks will allow you to make the car "stiff", but stiff isn't the same as having a car that's properly damped. My car will never run a 1.6 60 foot, but it will still get down the strip if I ever wanted to. I suspect that you could find a nice compromise as long as you're not hooked on seeing a 1.6 60 foot out of the car. If you'd shoot for 1.8-2.0, you could probably run a setup that allows decent handling.
You really can't have it all. This is also why you've found very few replies to this topic. If we set you up with something that really handles, you'll be mad that the drag times are slower. If we set you up for good drag times, you will still have a car that doesn't turn (as you already seem to have realized).
You might have to take another look at your goals.
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#8
Well you told me what I dont want to hear, well my freind has just eibach sport lines on stock stocks on a Fire hawk, and is pulling 1.7s on nitto DRs
So if I can dip into 1.6s and run 1.7s all day ill be happy
Drag sus is def scary and isnt safe at higher speeds, on the street etc
So if I can dip into 1.6s and run 1.7s all day ill be happy
Drag sus is def scary and isnt safe at higher speeds, on the street etc
#9
The best I've ever cut on my setup was a 2.1, but that was on full psi street tires. That was also what people were cutting on drag radials (between 1.9-2.1)...the track prep was pretty bad. I think with a sticky enough tire, 1.7s on a decent handling setup wouldn't be much of a problem. I'd personally be happy with 1.8s. I wouldn't consider an Eibach sportline spring to be a "handling" spring though...
#11
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
The best I've ever cut on my setup was a 2.1, but that was on full psi street tires. That was also what people were cutting on drag radials (between 1.9-2.1)...the track prep was pretty bad. I think with a sticky enough tire, 1.7s on a decent handling setup wouldn't be much of a problem. I'd personally be happy with 1.8s. I wouldn't consider an Eibach sportline spring to be a "handling" spring though...
#12
Originally Posted by slick1851
You were cutting 1.9s on a real street tire? That seems very very damn good to me! With slick or a decent DR im sure that would meet my goals
Hell...my buddy cut a 2.0 60' on ET Streets
#15
From what I understand, their spring rates are a little on the stiff side in the rear (a quick search came up with progressive 180-220 lb/in back there). I'd probably go a little softer than that if you want to get the rear end to squat a little better on the launch.
I went from 125 lb/in rate rear springs to Hotchkis rear springs (they are about 140 lb/in), and noted immediately that the rear tires were more prone to spinning under heavy throttle application. Why the swap...don't ask. Long story.
I went from 125 lb/in rate rear springs to Hotchkis rear springs (they are about 140 lb/in), and noted immediately that the rear tires were more prone to spinning under heavy throttle application. Why the swap...don't ask. Long story.
#16
I did a lot of research with similar goals. What you need to keep in mind is what was mentioned above, a corner carver can make it down the track but you'd be hard pressed to control a drag car in the corners.
With that in mind, its best to shoot for more of a handling oriented car without going too far as to destroy your launching ability, rather than the other way around (drag car with "some" ability to turn, not a good setup).
With that said here is what I am going with...
UMI Adj. Lower Control Arms (poly/rod)
UMI LCA Relocation Brackets
UMI Adj. Panhard Bar (poly/rod) - may change to double adj (rod/rod), not sure yet
UMI Adj. Torque Arm
UMI Torque Arm Relocation
Koni SA Shocks (very important)
Strano Springs - 15lb weight savings, linear rate
Strano Hollow Sway Bars (35/22)
I would suggest a setup like the one above, but with one major difference. Keep the stock springs. I think it would do quite well.
After that the biggest factor that you haven't even considered yet, are the tires. You can have a dual-purpose car if you keep 2 sets of wheels, one with stiff road-race tires, and one with soft drag tires, or a drag radial for street duty.
Hope this helps.
With that in mind, its best to shoot for more of a handling oriented car without going too far as to destroy your launching ability, rather than the other way around (drag car with "some" ability to turn, not a good setup).
With that said here is what I am going with...
UMI Adj. Lower Control Arms (poly/rod)
UMI LCA Relocation Brackets
UMI Adj. Panhard Bar (poly/rod) - may change to double adj (rod/rod), not sure yet
UMI Adj. Torque Arm
UMI Torque Arm Relocation
Koni SA Shocks (very important)
Strano Springs - 15lb weight savings, linear rate
Strano Hollow Sway Bars (35/22)
I would suggest a setup like the one above, but with one major difference. Keep the stock springs. I think it would do quite well.
After that the biggest factor that you haven't even considered yet, are the tires. You can have a dual-purpose car if you keep 2 sets of wheels, one with stiff road-race tires, and one with soft drag tires, or a drag radial for street duty.
Hope this helps.
#17
For the drag strip its going to a ET street or a good DR, im more worried about the soft drag setups at high speeds and in turns etc
I still want to be able to play around and have fun with not just go in a straight line......
BlackHawkT/A do you think a Prokit is a good idea? I like what you suggested, Im picking up a set of LCA tomarrow
I still want to be able to play around and have fun with not just go in a straight line......
BlackHawkT/A do you think a Prokit is a good idea? I like what you suggested, Im picking up a set of LCA tomarrow
#18
There are better choices out there in my opinion. For a 1" drop I would do the Hotchkis springs. Strano springs will put you at 1.25" which is the sweet spot I think as far as looks go, at a useable height that isn't too low for the suspension to handle and you won't scrape on everything.
I would not put a lowering spring on with your stock shocks though, and certainly not with a "drag" shock if you want anywhere near a decent ride.
I would not put a lowering spring on with your stock shocks though, and certainly not with a "drag" shock if you want anywhere near a decent ride.
#19
my set-up has dead stock ss front suspension with no swaybar. the rear is all spohn full adjustable. floor mounted t/a, adjustable lca, adjustable panbar, 9" spool with 4.57 gears. I will throw my car through the turns all day then race it at night cutting 1.5 short times.
everything is doable if done right
everything is doable if done right
#20
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
From what I understand, their spring rates are a little on the stiff side in the rear (a quick search came up with progressive 180-220 lb/in back there). I'd probably go a little softer than that if you want to get the rear end to squat a little better on the launch.
I went from 125 lb/in rate rear springs to Hotchkis rear springs (they are about 140 lb/in), and noted immediately that the rear tires were more prone to spinning under heavy throttle application. Why the swap...don't ask. Long story.
I went from 125 lb/in rate rear springs to Hotchkis rear springs (they are about 140 lb/in), and noted immediately that the rear tires were more prone to spinning under heavy throttle application. Why the swap...don't ask. Long story.