loyolacub68

iTrader: (16)

Does anyone have this combo, if so what break in procedure should I follow first, and is it really necessary to repeat the Brembo procedure 30 times??

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at The Tire Rack for racing application information.

Thanks for any help!

PS: I took these procedures from tire rack.

ultraz

iTrader: (4)

i have the hawk HPS and baer eradispeeds. Go with the hawk reccomendations

loyolacub68

iTrader: (16)

ttt....anyone else?

SGMZ28

I went with Hawk's instructions when I did mine with Brembo blanks.

loyolacub68

iTrader: (16)

So if you do Hawk's first should you still do the Brembo instructions afterwards?

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

i dont think it'll matter as long as you dont beat the hell out of them in the first hundred miles.

WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

I followed the Hawk instructions and they did fine. No squeal and they work quite well.

chicane

This will about cover it all: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml

loyolacub68

iTrader: (16)

Thanks chicane, I was worried that if I did not break in the rotors correctly they would warp which I am trying to avoid with new rotors in the first place. Looks like the bed in procedure for the brakes should do the trick.

chicane

Warping... lol.

This: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml should put that terminology to rest.

loyolacub68

iTrader: (16)

Well, thats good to know, I still think my OEM rotors are crap. At least thats one less thing I have to worry about.

gun5l1ng3r

I still think that rotors do warp, because of the hot spots that are created by the 'ridges' of extra pad material build-up on the rotors.
Couldn't we just take sandpaper and scrub the "warping" (ridges of material) off our rotors w/o having to get them turned w/ a machine?

chicane

I havent surfaced a rotor in... well, I never have in the 20 years I have been doing this... unless of course, its toast. Then it just gets replaced.

I have always chucked the rotor into the lathe and all it gets is the sand paper treatment...

plopp

iTrader: (5)

Problem: vibrating steering wheel when applying brakes

I had the stock rotors cut once (Chevy dealer, covered by warranty). Re-installed with new pads. Problem was back after only 4 weeks.

Installed new rotors and pads. Problem was back after 6-8 weeks.

Got tired of the Chevy dealer and bought rotors and pads at AutoZone, the cheap Duralast stuff, paid $110 for rotors and pads.

These rotors and pads are still fine after >40000 miles AND the stuff comes with a lifetime warranty.

tici

iTrader: (1)

I actually do beieve in warping...
Not as a permanent change in the rotors shape, but as something that happens in certain circumstanses.

My NEW Wagner rotors are perfect as long they are cold. I checked the runout and the thickness: it's all way below the max. tolerances.

But... as soon they get hot (not red, just hot) they vibrate + pulsate.

The metal looks "spongy" with many little air traps. If I tap the rotors with a steel hammer (not hard, just to make them sing) it makes a DENT!

I just received a set of Brembo's: the metal is much more harder, a totally different alloy. The surface is different too: no air traps.

Could this be a better explaination? Warpage as a result of bad quality?