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Big problem during front spring install

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Old 03-01-2007, 06:28 AM
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Default Big problem during front spring install

I was attempting to install my front Eibach pro kits last night but ran into a major problem. It took me about 5 minutes to get the shock and spring assembly out of the car but I noticed the top of the upper spring perch was full of rust. I soaked it in WD-40 and let it sit while I cranked the spring tight with the Spring compressor, after that I hit the nut with the impact and luckily it came right off. The spring perch wasn't going to be that easy though, it was rusted onto the bolt on the shock. I tried prying on it, beating on it, tapping it, cussing it, etc.. but wouldn't come off. After about an hour of fooling with it the damn thing popped off, and guess what, the damn rubber broke off of the sleeve leaving the spring perch and shock useless. Damnit! So now I'm going to have to call my buddy, Billy Graham, and see if he can hook me up with two new shocks and two spring perches. Has anyone else had this problem? The stud that the perch tightens to was even corroded with rust. I wonder if I put a bead of RTV around the upper control arm if that would help keep water out of there?
Old 03-01-2007, 09:26 AM
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What shocks do you have?

Get some fresh new upper spring perches. Bury the top shock nut in grease right before you put the shock spring assembly back in.

BTW: Are you running 17x11 TT wheels in the front? I am adding 17x11 wheels in the front this year. If you did, I was wondering if you used any spacers and if you cleared the bumpstops in the rear. If not, please disregard lol
Old 03-01-2007, 09:51 AM
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Right now I've got the stock shocks, as soon as I get some other things taken care of I will be buying a new set of Koni's for all four corners. I've got 17x11's in the rear, the only thing I had to do was beat the inner fender in a little where the sheetmetal sticks out. So far I haven't had any rubbing issues, we'll see once the autocross season opens! I just ordered some upper spring perches and two new shocks from Billy Graham down in Alabama. Hopefully the car will be back on the road tomorrow.
Old 03-01-2007, 10:00 AM
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You've probably heard it already from lots of people, but you should do the shocks before the springs or at the same time.

Actually, you should try to autox with stock shocks and stiffer springs. I've never gotten to compare. I've just listened to the overwhelming opinion about it. This way you can be someone who's actually made the comparison.
Old 03-01-2007, 11:14 AM
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To me the stock shocks perform fairly well, I'm sure with these stiffer springs and the car being lowered it'll handle very well. I did the Koni Shocks and Eibach springs on my third gen, yes it helped the ride quality and handling but it wasn't something that had to be done. I drove that car for a while with Monroe Sensa-junk shocks and the Eibach pro Kit springs without a problem. I mod on a limited budget, I've got a wife which is a fulltime college student and, two small kids and a demanding job so I'm strapped pretty thin on cash and time. I'll get the Koni's before the Summer gets here, fixing the A/C is my next priority. I was just wondering if anyone else experienced this problem with the upper spring perches freezing up.
Old 03-01-2007, 11:52 AM
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I hear ya. Money def doesn't grow on trees. And setups don't all feel the same to different people. If you are satisfied then that's all that matters

The upper spring perches getting siezed is definitely pretty common. I'm sure more will chime in and tell you their experiences. My upper shock nut was fairly stuck and rusted only 2 years after the Koni's were installed new. The first time I had a shop do the shocks only, and the second time I decided to do it myself when I put on the strano springs.

EDIT: By the way... did you have to trim your bumpstops to make the rear wheels fit? They don't catch on the bumpstops? Sorry for the hijack
Old 03-01-2007, 12:26 PM
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Well, I haven't trimmed the bumpstops but I'm sure it would help. Right now I have to jack up the rear from the chunk otherwise the wheels would hit. I'm going to custom make some bumpstops that will work while eliminating the clearance problem, some people have just cut theirs off and called it a day but I wouldn't recommend it. If your rear axle bottoms out on the frame it could be a bad thing, also your tires will eat your inner fender. You can trim them down to clear, just use a grinder and take your time.
How do you like your strano springs? I almost went with his since everyone seems to like them, I've always been loyal to Eibach though but if I don't like these Pro Kits I might make the swap.
Old 03-01-2007, 02:10 PM
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So far I like them. I haven't had a chance to really try them on the autox course yet though or any conditions that were good. It's been icy a lot lately. For a daily driver or mildly modified car, I would be happy with stock springs. Since I'm competing I'll need the edge.
Old 03-01-2007, 02:36 PM
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I had to replace my shocks today, and just put in some Monroe Sensa-Tracs on since I won't have the car but for a few more months anyways. I had the same problem on both sides with the shock nut not budging. Ended up getting the wheel cutter and cut it off the stock shock's threads. I guess it's in a different situation since I didn't need to keep the stock shocks. After that it was gravy. My main problem was the driver's side torx bolts. One of them had stripped out inside, leaving me to cut the head off the bolt to get it out (one closest to the master cylinder). So my best advice to ANYONE taking the springs/shocks out of the driver's side of the car is go get (2) grade 8 3/8"x1" bolts to replace those torx bolts with. Stupid design on GM's part for using those.
Old 03-01-2007, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Out1aw
I had to replace my shocks today, and just put in some Monroe Sensa-Tracs on since I won't have the car but for a few more months anyways. I had the same problem on both sides with the shock nut not budging. Ended up getting the wheel cutter and cut it off the stock shock's threads. I guess it's in a different situation since I didn't need to keep the stock shocks. After that it was gravy. My main problem was the driver's side torx bolts. One of them had stripped out inside, leaving me to cut the head off the bolt to get it out (one closest to the master cylinder). So my best advice to ANYONE taking the springs/shocks out of the driver's side of the car is go get (2) grade 8 3/8"x1" bolts to replace those torx bolts with. Stupid design on GM's part for using those.
I had the same problem with the torx bolt. I had to cut it off.



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