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Rear Passenger Rotor Keeps Warping. WHY??

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Old 01-30-2008, 09:12 PM
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Default Rear Passenger Rotor Keeps Warping. WHY??

I've been through 3 rotors on this one wheel in less than one year, and that's considering I drive on the warped rotors for months.

I've run both the stockers and wholesale direct drilled and slotted rotors, and all have been fine except for the ones I put on the rear passenger tire.

What could be causing this to happen?
Old 01-30-2008, 09:33 PM
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How is the caliper, brake hoses?
Old 01-30-2008, 09:34 PM
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Dunno. what should I look for?
Old 01-30-2008, 10:42 PM
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A caliper piston that sticks or a hose with a torn liner that forms a one way valve and holds the brake fluid under pressure even when you're not using the brakes and driving along. Replace the hose and caliper, they're cheap enough and you'll be done with it. Either resurface the rotor or get a new one at the same time.

Vernon
Old 01-31-2008, 05:41 AM
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Can a drilled and slotted rotor be resurfaced?
Old 01-31-2008, 05:46 AM
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^^^I don't believe so


As far as the original problem I'd tend to think the caliper was sticking slightly, thus creating extra heat and the warping you are describing. It's the only logical cause I can think of.
Old 01-31-2008, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by vMaster0fPuppets
Can a drilled and slotted rotor be resurfaced?
A machine shop can do it, I've done them on my brake lathe but I went slow and it was for my brother. A regular shop may not want to try it.

Vernon
Old 01-31-2008, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic
A machine shop can do it, I've done them on my brake lathe but I went slow and it was for my brother. A regular shop may not want to try it.

Vernon

I've seen this in action, and it seems that the holes and slots will break the needle off the machine.

I hear warped axles and bent wheels can cause this. Right?
Old 01-31-2008, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by vMaster0fPuppets
I've seen this in action, and it seems that the holes and slots will break the needle off the machine.

I hear warped axles and bent wheels can cause this. Right?
Yeah you can break the cutting bit if you try to take to much off in one pass and keep hitting the gaps hard it can break the carbide tip off. That's why I said go slow and take off a little each pass. It helps if you are somebody who has had plenty of experience with a brake lathe and know what you're doing. Don't take them to a parts store and expect them to know what to do. Some rotors just can't be turned.

I can see a warped axle overheating disk brakes but a bent wheel that's still useable shouldn't. The caliper follows the travel of a bent axle being rubbed back and forth instead of floating over it.

Vernon
Old 01-31-2008, 07:30 PM
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Hmmm...

I know I had a bent wheel on that hub, and I thought I had a bad axle.
Based on pictures of the axle, everyone here said it wasn't bent, so I just replaced a
bearing.

I guess its the caliper then...
Old 01-31-2008, 09:18 PM
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I don't know how you can tell that from pictures. I would drive the wheels in the air and see if the axle is bent. If it appears bent, mark it at the highest spot, then rotate the wheel about half-way around and check it again. If the high spot stays the same it's the wheel, if it moves it's the axle.

Vernon
Old 01-31-2008, 09:23 PM
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I have new wheels on it now. They'd damn well better be straight.

They were looking for uneven wear spots on the axle, of which there were none.
Old 01-31-2008, 09:36 PM
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I was thinking of a way to see if the axle is slightly bent, it will make everything bolted onto it wobble, like the wheel and brake rotor. But the brake caliper is attached to the axle housing so it stays still. Then when the brake wobbles in the stationary caliper it creates constant friction and would cause overheating and continually warped rotors. If you think you may have bent that axle there's no way to tell without checking runout, either on the flange with a dial indicator or with the wheel spinning in air like I said.

Vernon
Old 01-31-2008, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic
If you think you may have bent that axle there's no way to tell without checking runout, either on the flange with a dial indicator or with the wheel spinning in air like I said.

Vernon
Lost me.
Old 02-02-2008, 02:17 AM
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First remove the wheel. Then get a large screwdriver and find a spot on the rotor that you can grab. You need to pry the piston inwards to see if it is sticking. If the piston moves than you should check your slides. Remove your caliper bolts and try to move your slides back and forth. Most likely they are sticking but if they move with your hand then your brake line might be clogged. Doubtful.
Old 02-02-2008, 11:20 AM
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I need to do a system flush when it gets warm anyway. Maybe I'll just do stainless brakelines and do a caliper rebuild.

Good Idea?
Old 02-02-2008, 10:43 PM
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buy a line lock.
Old 02-03-2008, 01:24 AM
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What would that do for me?
Old 02-03-2008, 10:02 AM
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when your doing burnouts and standing on your brakes and gas at the same time, warps them.
Old 02-04-2008, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by reject
when your doing burnouts and standing on your brakes and gas at the same time, warps them.


Burnouts......very very bad for things



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