fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I'm really tired of listening to all these damn squeeks and suspension noises I hear from this car. Makes it sound like a POS. I love this POS though so what can I do to get rid of some of these noises? Car has 92000 miles on it so I know it's time to replace some bushings. I already have 1le lca bushings which work great, they got rid of some of the clunking noises in the back. There are some noises coming from the front going over bumps. I want to replace some bushings in the front with either poly or rubber. I just don't know where to use poly or rubber. I know to use poly for swaybar bushings and endlinks, so I might just pick up a 35mm stranobar for the front and wait on the back till I have the money. What other bushings can I replace? I hate these damn noises.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Wow! Where to start?

okay, so far your ideas sound good, but for the sake of dealing with the more important areas of wear, you may want to start with inspecting and/or replacing these items (note - if they've been recently replaced, please disregard):

1. Front Upper and Lower ball joints.

2. Tie rod and tie rod-ends.

3. Front lower control arm bushings
a) camber bushing: rubber or poly (keep well lubed if poly is used)
b) caster bushings: rubber only (many problems with poly)

4. Rear exhaust mount: Cheap and easy to replace. I had one of those 2 mph speed bump "clunks" and couldn't figure it out, until I did this. Afterwards, no more clunking. Since minimal movement is expected, either rubber or poly will do.

As a reminder, these are some good places to start, but of course there can be more serious culprits ahead (though I hope not). Again, it's up to you, however I'm only an advocate for replacing and/or upgrading only what's needed.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for your help Foxxtron. Will the MOOG Part # K6490 work for front lower control arms?

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Yep. those should be the ones.

BTW, all of those other brand name bushings (AC Delco, NAPA, TRW, Spicer, AutoZone/Duralast, etc.) are all actually the same exact product from the same manufacturer (with a few exceptions).

Just an FYI.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I'm guessing I need 2 sets of K6490.

Where can I find a poly exhaust mount?

Also what are some good brands for ball joints and tie-rods and end?

HossinatorSS

iTrader: (1)

I put the moogs in last summer, front upper and lower control arms. Made everything so much smoother and quieter!

LustrousWS6

iTrader: (1)

How does one go about replacing the LCA bushings? Is there a write-up on here? All I've heard is basically wedge it against a jack and it should pop out lol... seems kinda mickey mouse to me.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

This is one thread detailing the rear LCA bushing replacement: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/939762-how-install-lower-control-arm-moog-bushings.html

As the thread I referenced above proves that there's "more than one way to skin a cat", the front uppers and front lowers may not be as easy without an arbour press. Now, what I did with concerns to pressing in suspension arm ball joints and bushings was to remove the part myself, include any relevant replacement bushings and/or ball joints when I either brought it with me to work (the industrial mechanics had an arbour press in their shops that I used) or bring it to a garage who's willing to perform the service, perform it correctly, and perform it for a reasonable price.

Then again, I've used a relatively good large table mounted vise, and had success with those as well.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Affirmative with the K6490 as each set is only for one arm.

AFA a poly exhaust mount, you could consult the Energy suspension and/or Prothane websites and maybe give them a call to see if there are any available.

EDIT: I cannot recall any part numbers and/or any companies that make that shape of exhuast insulator, however the Walker brand (Part #35460) is only around $3 US, so it couldn't hurt to use that if nothing else is available. I find it awkward that there are no poly versions readily listed for that shape since the part is pretty universal (it applies to many vintages across a vast amount of brand names, foreign and domestic). A poly version would be nice, since that part is mostly responsible for isolating noise and minimising movement vibrations, yet it gets exposed frequently to all sorts of moisture, dirt, and oily substances from the road and/or maintenance.

AFA ball joints, tie-rods, and tie-rod ends...Moog or their usual equivalents. Now Afco does have some of the lower friction equivalent of the lower front control arm ball joint (don't see uppers available). You'll need to visit the A-Fab racing (AFCO) website to look for these.

sneaky7980

iTrader: (15)

When you get into replacing hard parts like sfc's, phr's etc, keep an eye on this thread.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/993060-aftermarket-susp-company-has-closest-tolerances-least-nvh.html

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=12167

I'm including this FRRAX thread with concerns to a poly camber replacement bushing. From my experience, it is difficult to lubricate. As noted, if this bushing isn't properly lubricated, it will lead to lots of stiction which will result in lots of squeaking thus defeating the purpose of putting a poly bushing in the first place.

In this application, the performance increase isn't usually anything "detectible" unless using a spherical bearing (which will compromise ride quality by allowing lots of NVH). If there are any concerns, it's usually best to stick with the Moog rubber replacement bushing.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

holy **** I think I found my squeek that I've been hearing for a while, it was driving me insane. Its the exhaust hanger on the passenger side. I have a hooker catback and have only 1 of the mounting points bolted on the passengers, I dont know if I can line the holes up for the second one. Anyways this is the squeek, I was wondering if there is a poly version of this mount too. I tried to grease the bushing but the squeek is still there. You can't hear the squeek when exhaust is cold though, when it got hot you can def hear it, even parked with the car off kicking the exhaust. Also wanted to know if the drivers side has a poly version.

HossinatorSS

iTrader: (1)

do yo think it might be squeaking between the tab that goes through the bushing and the tab that comes off the exhaust (where they're bolted together)? Most exhausts just have a rod welded to the pipes and that goes through the bushing so there is not metal to metal joint/interface. That single bolt would have a rough time keeping that joint from rotating and metal on metal movement usually means squeaks.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Has to be it. I'm going to try and get another bolt through. If I can't I'll just take it off, and put a shitload of marine grease in between there.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Well, I couldn't get a bolt through both holes, so I took it off and put a nice coat of marine grease on that hanger. So far it hasn't squeaked. For anyone who has a problem like this, check your exhaust hanger.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Another question for you guys, every time I turn turn hard to the right and left, it sounds like a mattress in the back. I don't know if it's the swaybar bushings or the new PH bar I put in, poly/rod btw. Everything sounds good except that shitty mattress sound.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Are both ends (rod and poly) tightened correctly and the poly end lubed enough?

What kind of bushings are used with the Swaybar body-mount bushings?

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

the ph bar is tight, i haven't pumped the bushing with grease yet, don't have a grease gun but i thoroughly put grease on it. As for swaybar bushings, everything is stock.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Well, guessing on my part is just that, however...

From what you've just typed, it is mandatory that the inner sleeve of that bushing is indeed well lubricated, because the way that poly bush is designed, it uses the grease between the sleeve as a "fluid bearing" of sorts. This is the only reason poly bushings are greased.

AFA swaybars, I do remember that you're in the market for some new ones (which should include both swaybar mount and endlink bushings), however, if you feel the need to replace those bushings in back, that may help some. I can say from experience with a street car that uses replacement poly bushes (endlink and swaybar mount) do make a difference with the swaybars.

Again, merely chasing down the annoying NVH by referencing my experience which was like yours.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I got some grease in the sleeve area but not enough I suppose; regardless, the car still made the same mattress sound when turn left and right fast. I'm going to get a rear strano bar and see what happens. Grease gun also.