$250 bucks and I don't know what to do...
03-18-2005, 10:16 AM
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$250 bucks and I don't know what to do... Can you local guys give me some advice on what to do with my car for $250? My car is stock except for headers and air lid. I have to spend it quick or my wife will forget that she said I could spend it 
. I would love to go the route of a cam but I don't know the first thing about buying one, especially used (what to look for as far as abuse goes). I also thought about a dual pillar gauge pod but what is that going to do for me? I've looked at about 5 different web sites and now my head is spinning. Thanks for the help folks.
. I would love to go the route of a cam but I don't know the first thing about buying one, especially used (what to look for as far as abuse goes). I also thought about a dual pillar gauge pod but what is that going to do for me? I've looked at about 5 different web sites and now my head is spinning. Thanks for the help folks. 
03-18-2005, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Oskar_Z28
Give it to me. 
I know how to spend it.
I know how to spend it.
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03-18-2005, 12:31 PM
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Hmm give it to me, and when I get home from WI. I will spend it on a comming home party. LOL
Hate to say it, hide the money, untill she says you can have more mod money, there just ain't much you can do for $250. Maybe 2500 would be better, go back and see what she says about that one.
JET
Hate to say it, hide the money, untill she says you can have more mod money, there just ain't much you can do for $250. Maybe 2500 would be better, go back and see what she says about that one.
JET
03-18-2005, 12:54 PM
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For $250 you can: Fill up w/ some 93 octane, buy a bottle of octane booster, and pick you up a K&N replacement filter
j/k there's not a whole lot you can do....save up a little longer and buy a nitrous kit.
j/k there's not a whole lot you can do....save up a little longer and buy a nitrous kit.
03-18-2005, 01:25 PM
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Get a subframe connector! 
Right price range, and from what I've read, I think it'd be better to start off with one before doing any big power mods instead of waiting till after your creaks and leaks get worse 
Right price range, and from what I've read, I think it'd be better to start off with one before doing any big power mods instead of waiting till after your creaks and leaks get worse
03-18-2005, 01:29 PM
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Maybe I should have explained the situation at hand. The wife and I are saving up to get the siding redone on our house (hardiplank). So for about a year now, everytime I say let's do this or let's do that or I want this or I want that she says, "no...not yet...we are saving for siding..." So, she went and got a tattoo of a butterfly for $240 plus $10 in topical aides - she asked me if it was okay to do this and I said sure 
go ahead! Then I turned around and said but I get $250 toward my car . She shrugged and said, "I was afraid you were going to say that". So, I have to spend it now or she will put it right back with the siding fund.
go ahead! Then I turned around and said but I get $250 toward my car . She shrugged and said, "I was afraid you were going to say that". So, I have to spend it now or she will put it right back with the siding fund.
03-18-2005, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ACW
Get a subframe connector! Right price range, and from what I've read, I think it'd be better to start off with one before doing any big power mods instead of waiting till after your creaks and leaks get worse
Right price range, and from what I've read, I think it'd be better to start off with one before doing any big power mods instead of waiting till after your creaks and leaks get worse Thanks for the replies
03-18-2005, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by anLS1x2
Maybe I should have explained the situation at hand. The wife and I are saving up to get the siding redone on our house (hardiplank). So for about a year now, everytime I say let's do this or let's do that or I want this or I want that she says, "no...not yet...we are saving for siding..." So, she went and got a tattoo of a butterfly for $240 plus $10 in topical aides - she asked me if it was okay to do this and I said sure go ahead! Then I turned around and said but I get $250 toward my car . She shrugged and said, "I was afraid you were going to say that". So, I have to spend it now or she will put it right back with the siding fund.
go ahead! Then I turned around and said but I get $250 toward my car . She shrugged and said, "I was afraid you were going to say that". So, I have to spend it now or she will put it right back with the siding fund.
, I would spend it on subframe connectors as someone mentioned. I got some SLP ones on my car (heavy, but very stiff). Just right price range. 
03-18-2005, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitrous fed SS
yeah i would go with subframe connectors, it makes a huge difference
. Thanks for the feed back.
03-18-2005, 03:31 PM
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The SLP ones are alot stiffer than plain old bar. They are triangulated and they distribute the load better. I had them on my car for over 4 years, and I have no rattles at all, and the chassis does not flex that much under hard cornering conditions. I had tons of rattles on my '98 that didn't have have SFC. Bolts are not that much more expensive, so I don't know why the $100 difference. How much do the bolt on ones run now? I think I paid around $200 or 250.
Now if you think about weld on ones. Unless you are handy with the welder, you will have to pay someone to install them. I bolted my on in 30 minutes. True, weld on ones will be stiffer than bolt on ones.
Now if you think about weld on ones. Unless you are handy with the welder, you will have to pay someone to install them. I bolted my on in 30 minutes. True, weld on ones will be stiffer than bolt on ones.
03-18-2005, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Oskar_Z28
The SLP ones are alot stiffer than plain old bar. They are triangulated and they distribute the load better. I had them on my car for over 4 years, and I have no rattles at all, and the chassis does not flex that much under hard cornering conditions. I had tons of rattles on my '98 that didn't have have SFC. Bolts are not that much more expensive, so I don't know why the $100 difference. How much do the bolt on ones run now? I think I paid around $200 or 250.
Now if you think about weld on ones. Unless you are handy with the welder, you will have to pay someone to install them. I bolted my on in 30 minutes. True, weld on ones will be stiffer than bolt on ones.
Now if you think about weld on ones. Unless you are handy with the welder, you will have to pay someone to install them. I bolted my on in 30 minutes. True, weld on ones will be stiffer than bolt on ones.
03-18-2005, 03:40 PM
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I'd go for cam, heads, SFC, and N20. It's really simple. Get a 2nd mortgage for the Hardiplank, and have the contractor include that stuff in the price!!! j/k
A note on the siding, if the old siding is the "masonite" style pressed board siding, you might be entitled to some cash. I got about $2500 for my garage siding, because it was crap! THE STUFF WAS DISSOLVING AFTER 20 YEARS!! I got a letter from a guy offering to handle everyting for 30% cut, so I said go for it. He cut out a small piece, put a patch over the hole, and then handled all the paper work. About a month later I got the check.
On the Hardiplank, investigate "vent skinning". It can reduce your electric bills a bunch.
It prevents the heat from transferring to the interior walls. Shouldn't cost but a few dollars extra, but you'll make it up in a few months.
I did it on the 4 car garage, and in the summer, I don't even have to air condition, it stays soo cool. (If I have to leave the garage door open, it does heat up).
If you need more info, gimme a shout.
A note on the siding, if the old siding is the "masonite" style pressed board siding, you might be entitled to some cash. I got about $2500 for my garage siding, because it was crap! THE STUFF WAS DISSOLVING AFTER 20 YEARS!! I got a letter from a guy offering to handle everyting for 30% cut, so I said go for it. He cut out a small piece, put a patch over the hole, and then handled all the paper work. About a month later I got the check.
On the Hardiplank, investigate "vent skinning". It can reduce your electric bills a bunch.
It prevents the heat from transferring to the interior walls. Shouldn't cost but a few dollars extra, but you'll make it up in a few months.
I did it on the 4 car garage, and in the summer, I don't even have to air condition, it stays soo cool. (If I have to leave the garage door open, it does heat up).
If you need more info, gimme a shout.
03-18-2005, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 02SOMZ28
I'd go for cam, heads, SFC, and N20. It's really simple. Get a 2nd mortgage for the Hardiplank, and have the contractor include that stuff in the price!!! j/k
A note on the siding, if the old siding is the "masonite" style pressed board siding, you might be entitled to some cash. I got about $2500 for my garage siding, because it was crap! THE STUFF WAS DISSOLVING AFTER 20 YEARS!! I got a letter from a guy offering to handle everyting for 30% cut, so I said go for it. He cut out a small piece, put a patch over the hole, and then handled all the paper work. About a month later I got the check.
On the Hardiplank, investigate "vent skinning". It can reduce your electric bills a bunch.
It prevents the heat from transferring to the interior walls. Shouldn't cost but a few dollars extra, but you'll make it up in a few months.
I did it on the 4 car garage, and in the summer, I don't even have to air condition, it stays soo cool. (If I have to leave the garage door open, it does heat up).
If you need more info, gimme a shout.
A note on the siding, if the old siding is the "masonite" style pressed board siding, you might be entitled to some cash. I got about $2500 for my garage siding, because it was crap! THE STUFF WAS DISSOLVING AFTER 20 YEARS!! I got a letter from a guy offering to handle everyting for 30% cut, so I said go for it. He cut out a small piece, put a patch over the hole, and then handled all the paper work. About a month later I got the check.
On the Hardiplank, investigate "vent skinning". It can reduce your electric bills a bunch.
It prevents the heat from transferring to the interior walls. Shouldn't cost but a few dollars extra, but you'll make it up in a few months.
I did it on the 4 car garage, and in the summer, I don't even have to air condition, it stays soo cool. (If I have to leave the garage door open, it does heat up).
If you need more info, gimme a shout.