DarknessC5

iTrader: (1)

I bought my car in Jan. from Jupiter Chevy in Garland, TX. The plate did read (TX) R31 SNP. The car is a NBM Stripper A4 and had 41k on it when I bought it. It has a Hooker cat-back with Magnaflow tips and a cutout and well as all the free mods performed. If there is any other info you might need in order for me to find the previous owner let me know. I need to find the guy that owned it so I can find out exactly what he did to the car.

I pulled the history from a GM dealer and it showed to have some work done. Replaced valves, headgaskets, timing set.. So I am guessing he blew it up and traded it in and the Dealer fixed it before reselling it.

I am hoping the guy either visited this website while he was the owner of the car or that someone may know the guy that owned this car before me. Any help would be appreciated.

There can't be that many 2002 NBM Hardtop Stripper car's in TX.

twobit

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like a buddy of mines car. Let me check with him. I know he broke a timing chain on it and it bent a few valves at one point. He also had a Midwest Converter in it and a rebuilt tranny.

twobit

iTrader: (12)

Yep, thats my old car. Here is the scoop on the Valve train issue. I was getting on the George Bush one morning and got on it a little to merge into traffic. All of the sudden, and I do mean sudden, the car lost all power and popped and sputtered along to a stop. The car had an extended warranty at the time so I towed it to the dealer to be looked at. The culprit was a broken timing chain, 11 bent valves, and some PR's were bent like bananas.
The car was repaired under warranty, and I was back on the road.

The tranny has been replaced as well. When the car had about 5k on it I put in a 2800 Vig and it was fine for five or six months. Again one night out of the blue as I was entering the N.Dallas Tollroad the car stopped moving forward. The culprit was the tranny was not shimmed right, G-Damn Vigs, and I had to replace the tranny. (Pump took a ****)

Now for the good stuff you want to know about.

*The car has a FULL-TUNE in it. Tuned by Chris Robinson at RPM. Rev limiter is at 6800 and the shift points are at 6300.
*it has a LPE- GT2-3 cam in it/and yellow ls6 springs.(same as LS6 cam)
*it should have an ASP pulley on it still.
*all of the free mods are done, as you noticed.
*it has a MIDWEST 3600 stall in it, 2.1STR if I remember.
*it has 3.42's and a stud kit, Jason @ TDP did the work.
*car ran a best of 7.6@92 (Denton) with all of the above and MACS & ORY, Lid, and Shaner TB. Would have been a high 11 @ 114 or so in the 1/4. I never went back to Ennis cause the prep sucks ***.

I changed the oil every 3K with Valvoline Synthetic, and changed the Tranny fluid twice. Put on some Long Tubes and a ORY and you should be good to go. You will not needs 02simms, the back sensors are DELETED! It passed inspection just fine last year with the MACS and ORY on it. When I had the car dynoed after the cam went in it put down 368/354. Feel free to call my cell (check your PM's) if you want and you can ask me whatever you like. BTW, the car looks ******* great...glad you got a hold of it.

-Matt B.

DarknessC5

iTrader: (1)

Wow.. I tried to get the dealer to call you and give you my number since they wouldn't give me yours. I am glad to finally know what all was done to the car. THANK YOU for replying!! I have a million questions, but I will start with just a few..

Did you ever run nitrous on the car?

And I am having some tuning issues, hoping you might be able to help me with.

See here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...5&page=1&pp=20

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/338875-help-very-confused-two-graphs-compare.html

It does have the ASP pulley, but I believe it just failed, chewed the belt all to hell... Hoping the pulley failure is what was causing me to have a dip in the dyno.

The car no longer has headers or ORY... The dealer put it back to stock..

The rear has a stock cover on it, did you replace it or just change the gears and add a stud kit?

What is TDP?

Do you remember the specs of the cam?

Why did you trade the car in? Broke too much?

Since I bought the car I've done the following...
SS hood
SS wing
Custom Tinted windows including front
18" Chrome Z06 wheels
SLP bowtie grill
Berger Style tail panel w/ chrome inserts
LS1 Motorsports Lid and Holley filter
BMR STB
BMR Boxed LCAs
BMR Boxed SFCs
JL Audio Stealthbox

I also replaced the LS6 springs with Comp 918's... Also about to put a stock crank pulley back on so I can get the car running again.

Would you believe that Jupiter Chevrolet "GM Certified" the car with the exahust, cam, stall,. etc installed? Then after I had it dynoed the first time and realized I had a problem, the dealer I took it to wouldn't honor the GM Certified warranty because it had aftermarket parts installed. I got screwed there.


Thanks for the input! Best time I've gotten so far is in my Sig...Should be a lot better once the "dip" problem is figured out and after I add headers and ORY..

Matt B 991LE

Darkness- Ok, I got my old Password reset. This is Matt B again.

-The car never has been sprayed.

-Your tuning issues are probably from the pulley...its an older ASP version that I bought used. If you swap it out I bet the graph will look 100% better.

-Remember the car was tuned with the cam, Macs and ORY on it. I took the Macs off and put the stock stuff back on. A stock pulley and some LT's and ORY should get you squared away. I looked at my dyno graph and it pulled all the way to 6200 and the A/F was straight as an arrow at 12.8. I can mail it to you if you want to see it. I have no need for it.

-The Cam is not the GT2-3, its that previous issue LPE cam, I want to say its a GT2 cam. it specs out almost like an LS6 cam. 210.212 542.542 116lsa (not sure if this is right, but its close)

-Did you check the Push rods when you swapped springs? You could have a few bent, doubt it, but nothing is impossible.

-It had a TA Girdle on it, I took it off and put the stocker back on. But I assure you, it has 3.42's and a stud kit in it. The Gears were done By Jason Bailey at Texas Drivetrain Performance. Search LS2.com for him in the Tx section. He is very very good at what he does.

I traded the car in for a truck at Jupiter. The main reason I got rid of it was because I was trying to save money for a house. We close this Thursday at 4:00 btw. The only problems I ever had was the Vig taking a **** on me cause we didnt shim it right, DAMN VIGS, and the Timing Chain breaking. Other than that the car ran damn good for two+ years I had it.

Yes, it does not surprise me about the GM warranty. The night I picked up my truck it already was sitting outside on the lot as "certified." I got a good chuckle out of that. The MIDWEST converter is rock solid...and that tranny never flinched with BFG Dr's on it. Many passes with 1.7 60's on it.

Take care, check your PM's and give me a call on my cell. If I dont answer leave me your name, number and I'll call you back.

-Matt B

Matt B 991LE

TTT, holla at me if you have any more questions.

98_1LE

iTrader: (17)

Holy **** Matt. I didn't realize you sold the Z28.

DarknessC5

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on the house!

Sure, I'd like to take a look at that Dyno.. I'll PM you my address if you can't post it or email it.

I did check the pushrods when I was installing the springs... They were all straight (per my kitchen counter rolling technique )

I had several people tell me it had a stall in it, but they all said they thought it was a small stall converter. I had no idea it was a 3600. The 2nd time I had it dynoed they had a problem with the converter kicking down and couldn't get a good run. Have you ever heard of that converter not locking up?

Do you really think I can pick up that much with headers/ory?? I ran a 12.8 with a 1.9 60' on street tires... I am looking at some Pacesetter Race LT's and ORY, so do you think I could run a high 11 with that and some DR's?

Do you remember the milage on the car when you traded it?

Were the heads damaged when the timing set broke? If so, did they replace them?

I'm assuming the MIDWEST converter IS shimmed right??

I will be calling you soon... I work nights (5pm - 1am) so I don't want to call too late/early...

THANKS AGAIN for replying!! I'll keep you updated as the car progresses...

BTW, I've already placed 1st at a local car show.. That was before the hood/spoiler. Now that I got it looking good, time to make it faster!

Matt B 991LE

Hey Chuck...fancy seeing you here. I got rid of the Z back in Dec 04. The car was fine, I just needed something cheaper and the ability to haul stuff since we were buying/building a house. It took a little longer than expected but we close tomorrow.

If you want to know the truth I was a complete idiot from letting my 1LE go for the blue Z. I should have kept it and fixed the little things that pushed me to trade it. The guy that bought it caught the "Grench" bug and sold all of the "1LE" specific parts off of the car to make a little more money before he sold it to someone I think in Louisiana.

Matt B 991LE

DarknessZ28- Congrats on the First Place showing...that car didn't have a mark on it when I traded it. I work at a small office with WAY TOO many spots so it always got double parked.

Ok I looked back over my receipt for the stall...its actually a 3400 2.0str.

That car is dying to have some exhaust put back on it. No telling what the computer is trying to do with the tune/stock exhaust on it. At one time I had OFF-ROAD bypass pipes on it with Stock Manifolds and the car was running consistant 12.45's at 111 with that converter....(no cam)

Mileage when I traded it was a tick over 41000.

The heads were not damaged, they pulled them to fix the valves but it ran fine once I got it back...one of the old Macs broke a stud and I kept having an exhaust leak but other than that it hauled *** for the mods.

The MIDWEST verter is fine, it has mounting pads just like a stocker so you dont have to shim it. I put at least 20K on the car with that verter/rebuilt tranny in it. As I stated it had never flinched with the DR's on it.

BEST OF LUCK! Make sure you send me your addy and I'll mail the dyno graph to you. BTW, I looked at it again and the car was pulling all the way to 6400 with that cam and the mods. At the time of the dyno it had, SLP lid, Shaner S2, pulley, LPE GT-2 cam, LS6 springs, 3.42's, Macs/ORY, open cutout, Hooker CB, Midwest Stall, and free mods. Just so you know what I was working with when you see the graph.

-Matt B.

Matt B 991LE

^ for DarknessZ28

DarknessC5

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info! I PM'ed you my address. My goal is to get it to at least where you had it and then install my nitrous kit. I want to run a 10.999 just once... Maybe twice to back it up I'll keep you updated!

Matt B 991LE

I'll mail it to you today.

You should not have too much trouble getting it in the low 11's with nitrous, the current cam and decent exhaust. Going 10.999 would require a bigger cam more than likely. Remember, ET is all in the first 60'. Once again, the car looks great and Im damn proud of the way you made my old baby look.

PS- I didnt get your Info...all it says is......

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DarknessC5

iTrader: (1)

I sent it to you again... let me know if you got it.

Matt B 991LE

Got your PM from twobit last week. The dyno graph and the LO-JACK ID card are in the mail. I dont know if you will be able to contact LO-JACK and have it changed into your name but the car does have it.

Matt B 991LE

Did you get the dyno graph and LO-JACK card yet? I mailed it Saturday morning.

How is it running with a Stock pulley on it? Just curious. Let me know.

-Matt B.

Matt B 991LE

BUMP BUMP AND AWAY

DarknessC5

iTrader: (1)

Got the Dyno graphs and the Lo-Jack card... Any idea how it works? Thanks for mailing it so quickly.. The car runs awesome with the stock pulley... It revs slower but the power band is smooth and no "dip" so far... Need to get it re-dynoed soon. I contacted ASP about a replacement pulley and if they determine it's faulty then I can buy a brand new one for $168... So that is a little better than retail price. If the new dyno shows a smooth curve, I'm going to install the nitrous kit!

Matt B 991LE

The Lo-jack works by calling the police dept is the car is ever stolen and they will active the lo-jack by the number on the card. It was installed when I bought it so it may be in my name. Just call Lo-jack and ask.

Glad to hear about the car and stock pulley smoothing things out. Thats awesome. Just get some exhaust on it and tell me how it picks up.

Reject

iTrader: (24)

damn i wish i knew who had owned my car before me, good to hear that you were able to find the previous owner.