pHEnomIC

iTrader: (14)

I would like to get a welding unit that I can do multipurpose stuff on the car with. I would like to be able to do things such as sfcs, exhaust work, roll cage, etc.

One thing that I would like to do is build an 8.8 rearend for the fbody which requires welding axle tubes to a housing along with making a torque arm mount (some have said it involves welding nickel rod)

What can I get that wont cost a fortune and be functional for small projects here and there.

Daryn

iTrader: (19)

a higher end 110v or 220v would do the job nicely ... from the lincoln weld pak 140 (which i have), to the hobart 180 or miller 210.... all depends on your pocket book..

i personally love my WP140.... ive done my exhuast on my truck atleast 3 times and a few cars for my friends also...

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

with most of the stuff you listed...you're probably better off with a TIG. If you can skip aluminum welding, the MAXSTAR series of Miller welders are pretty nice and cost efficient.

problem is exhaust work is usually easier to do with MIG, but I don't like MIG welding cage stuff

davidws6

iTrader: (36)

I grabbed a Millermatic 180 a couple of years ago and it's welded anything I've wanted to do. From body panels to 1/2 " thick stuff.

Though might be more then you want to spend. At the time, it cost me about $1150

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

Lincoln Weldpac3200HD here.works great for what I do on cars.

schino

iTrader: (14)

a good bang for you buck now is hobart 187. i got one last year and it gets used lots and no problems at all. its small and packs one hell of a punch

ks my ss

stick with lincoln, miller or hobart.

PUD'S BOY

Miller and Hobart are owned by the same parent company now. Lincoln is good to. A standard stick machine is always a good base to build from. Swithching polarity gives you stick and tig capabilities . You can also add a wire feeder on later if you like. I personally think migs are terrible as far as strength welding on a consistent basis. Mostly due to improper voltage and or wire speed(incorrect setup) If a guy can Tig he is much more like to be able to produce a structurally sound weld simply because of what he sees with the naked eye during the process. MIG is great for body panels due to its low penetration and high travel speed. But thats about as far as i can trust it where welding anything my life may depend on with that process.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

get a good 220v machine, you will have difficultly on 1/4" or bigger materials with a 110v machine. Miller is the best from my experience, but hobart and lincoln should be your only other options. the Millermatic 210 i'm using right now does everything i need it to for the time being. i'm looking into getting a Dynasty 200DX for the tig work i want to do, but that machine is probably out of your price and skill range. Like Fireball said, if you want a tig look at the MAXSTAR machines. The Syncrowave 200 would also be a great choice at around $2K new. a lot of people have problems getting their minds around using a dry rig, and if you're one of those, a water-cooled torch and cooler can easily be set up on that little syncrowave. Miller's coolmate are, IMHO, overpriced, but if you look around there are several other manufacturers.

bottom line is: get a 220v machine and decide from there what you want to do to determine mig or tig.

726.0chevelle

iTrader: (17)

if you dont want to get really expensive get two machines for mig {exhaust welding} just get a 220 volt machine i purchased a lincoln 180hd for $675 then for the rollcage or for critical welds that require stick or tig weld pick up a 220 volt cracker box welder but it needs to be an ac/dc (so you can tig) welder you can pick them up cheap used. I have an old craftsman machine and it tig welds great.

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

i have 4 miller 350P welders at my shop. i can weld anything from 20ga to well as think as i want. lol

99345hp

For what you want to do a good mig welder as mentioned above would work well.

As far as welding on cast, I don't have any experience with welding it with a mig. For a stick welder then you need to use a high nickel rod. It is more than just striking an arc on it and being done. Cast needs to be pre-heated to a certain temp (cant remember temp), welded, then SLOWLY cooled back to room temperature. If you let it cool too fast, then the base metal and weld can hairline crack. You will actually hear it cracking as it cools if you let it cool too fast.

You can cool it fast by covering it in sand, wrapping it in thick blankets, anything to insulate it from letting the heat out too fast.