PSA: Flux Core wire on thin'ish metal is a bad idea
08-20-2010, 11:43 PM
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PSA: Flux Core wire on thin'ish metal is a bad idea argh. ive known its a bad idea but its all i have and the welds look absolutely horrific. i need a grinder... blegh. i cant get the settings right plus im doing this upside down (under car). just... shitty. i really need to do a CO2/Argon setup. i need to rethink how to do the other side
no, youre not getting pictures
no, youre not getting pictures
08-21-2010, 03:35 AM
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hell my fav thing to weld is over-head, on thin (16ga and smaller) steel with flux core!!!.. i dont know why but that little lincoln gets such a smooth weld going when its upside down... i guess it just depends on whos welding!!
08-21-2010, 11:27 AM
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I can weld 18ga on flux all day long... operator error.. I can do it on a 185 on 1 and feed at 20.. just gotta know what your doing.
Edit. Its not the ideal setup thought... If your a newb get a tri-mix and try on some scrap to get your settings right.
Edit. Its not the ideal setup thought... If your a newb get a tri-mix and try on some scrap to get your settings right.
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08-22-2010, 12:18 AM
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Edit- Just so you know thats using .023 wire.
If your using 30, 35 its way too big
08-22-2010, 05:52 PM
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I have trouble even with gas. Don't feel bad, just practice
more on expendable material.
You might need to spot it rather than trying for continuous
bead, and for sure try a lap weld rather than butted. Some
flanging pliers would help that but you can also use a
third piece of metal (strip) as backing and get the same
sort of effect.
I used my flux-cored unit for fixing my K on-car, which
was some unfriendly out-of-position smorgasbord. I took
the joke of a "MIG nozzle" off and wrapped the tip with
fiberglass tape and was able to work down inside some
very narrow areas. Couldn't have done it with a "real
MIG", no way, in those spots.
If you run really low speed you will go into spray mode
and that I think is highest heat in the workpiece. The
"blob" mode (low voltage, high feed) does not penetrate
as much. You have to find the magic setting for whatever
material the particular job is. Writing it down for next time,
might be a good idea. I always forget though, which makes
each time an adventure.
more on expendable material.
You might need to spot it rather than trying for continuous
bead, and for sure try a lap weld rather than butted. Some
flanging pliers would help that but you can also use a
third piece of metal (strip) as backing and get the same
sort of effect.
I used my flux-cored unit for fixing my K on-car, which
was some unfriendly out-of-position smorgasbord. I took
the joke of a "MIG nozzle" off and wrapped the tip with
fiberglass tape and was able to work down inside some
very narrow areas. Couldn't have done it with a "real
MIG", no way, in those spots.
If you run really low speed you will go into spray mode
and that I think is highest heat in the workpiece. The
"blob" mode (low voltage, high feed) does not penetrate
as much. You have to find the magic setting for whatever
material the particular job is. Writing it down for next time,
might be a good idea. I always forget though, which makes
each time an adventure.
08-22-2010, 09:17 PM
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I have trouble even with gas. Don't feel bad, just practice
more on expendable material.
You might need to spot it rather than trying for continuous
bead, and for sure try a lap weld rather than butted. Some
flanging pliers would help that but you can also use a
third piece of metal (strip) as backing and get the same
sort of effect.
I used my flux-cored unit for fixing my K on-car, which
was some unfriendly out-of-position smorgasbord. I took
the joke of a "MIG nozzle" off and wrapped the tip with
fiberglass tape and was able to work down inside some
very narrow areas. Couldn't have done it with a "real
MIG", no way, in those spots.
If you run really low speed you will go into spray mode
and that I think is highest heat in the workpiece. The
"blob" mode (low voltage, high feed) does not penetrate
as much. You have to find the magic setting for whatever
material the particular job is. Writing it down for next time,
might be a good idea. I always forget though, which makes
each time an adventure.
more on expendable material.
You might need to spot it rather than trying for continuous
bead, and for sure try a lap weld rather than butted. Some
flanging pliers would help that but you can also use a
third piece of metal (strip) as backing and get the same
sort of effect.
I used my flux-cored unit for fixing my K on-car, which
was some unfriendly out-of-position smorgasbord. I took
the joke of a "MIG nozzle" off and wrapped the tip with
fiberglass tape and was able to work down inside some
very narrow areas. Couldn't have done it with a "real
MIG", no way, in those spots.
If you run really low speed you will go into spray mode
and that I think is highest heat in the workpiece. The
"blob" mode (low voltage, high feed) does not penetrate
as much. You have to find the magic setting for whatever
material the particular job is. Writing it down for next time,
might be a good idea. I always forget though, which makes
each time an adventure.
on the faster speeds i run into a problem where it bottoms out in the puddle on solid metal and "bounces".
the wire is .035 on a LE 135
08-23-2010, 08:53 AM
#11
TECH Enthusiast
the reference thing on the door of the welder says with the wire im using, heat setting 2 with a 1.5 wire speed (out of 10) is the starting point. i did a few passes on some metal i had cut out for the shifter to come through and it seems to work well enough. i just need to move a lil quicker.
on the faster speeds i run into a problem where it bottoms out in the puddle on solid metal and "bounces".
the wire is .035 on a LE 135
on the faster speeds i run into a problem where it bottoms out in the puddle on solid metal and "bounces".
the wire is .035 on a LE 135
WAYYYYY too much wire for thin metal... .023 or 30...
