Brains

iTrader: (7)

Just ordered a Miller EconoTig, but have a couple questions.

I've found there's "families" of tig torches, which it appears the manufacturers have pretty much standardized -- so things just "fit". I kinda get that, but still don't know exactly what I'm looking for. The torch that comes with the unit is a 150A DB1712RDI .. They also throw in a red 3/32" tungsten.

For welding thin material, specifically exhaust tubing, would you want to go with a smaller tungsten? I also read about using ceriated tungsten for thinner materials, any suggestions there?

To match the collet, collet body, gas lens, etc. would I be looking at "17 series" components?

Thanks for answering, I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go along Any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated!

horsepower

yes, smaller gear for thinner materials. For tubing and such, a small, lightweight, water-cooled torch is best; the smaller the torch and tungsten, the better. If you get into thick steel, or aluminum, you'll need bigger gear. If you try and weld the thick stuff with the small torch and tungsten, you'll struggle and burn up tungsten and tips....but with the econotig, you won't be welding anything thick anyway

72ChevelleConv.LS1

iTrader: (5)

Keep the tungston clean and you will have more controll of your bead. small will be good for what you want.

JRick212

iTrader: (6)

As a rule I've always been told that tungsten diameter should be about half the size of whatever the thickness of what you are trying to weld is.

The way you sharpen the tungsten also is important as I'm sure you will find out

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

I generally use 3/32 for just about everything we do. Works well for the materials and thickness.

I do use a 1/16 on thinwall aluminum tubing, as I can get a more controlled and finer bead.

Don't bother trying much thicker than .065 aluminum or 150+ amps w/ 1/16. You'll end up with a blob of tungsten

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Matt, that's exactly the info I was looking for

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

once you start using it you'll get a feel for what works best......out of the four or five guys in our shop that tig weld, they all prefer to use different things to get the same job done......

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Ive never used 1/16 tungsten. 3/32 all the way. I have 3 machines, and all use the 20 series torches for interchange-ability.

FastBlackTA

iTrader: (7)

I'm a beginner at TIG welding, but I have been using 3/32 on everything with good results.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

hmm wonder if i should try some 1/16 for my aluminum, been using the 3/32 with poor results.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

what about the results were poor?

Lasershop

iTrader: (2)

I have a new Econtig. Welding steel and stainless you basically sharpen (taper) the tungsten anyway. I have been using the standard 3/32 for everything with good results. Never Tig'ed before I bought this unit. I bought a lot of different fillers but am using less and less of it finding that fit and power levels are everything. On Aluminum, pre heating is the only way with this machine. Makes it all so much easier.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Most TIGs use Red tungsten ( 2% thoriated) for steel, and Green ( Pure tungsten) for aluminum.

My Dynastys are an inverter type, and use Lanthanated for EVERYTHING, even sharpened tips for steel and aluminum both. You can get away with using Red if you are in a pinch, but DO NOT use pure tungsten if you own an inverter type machine as it will wreak havoc with it, and eventually hurt it.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

hard to make a puddle, doesnt have smooth flow, contaminates easily, and spatters on my tungsten easily eating it up fast.

going to spend more time cleaning it and turning up the gas, maybe that will help.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

i don't weld aluminum too much, but sometimes it can be fickle....

i work for dcx and our union has a training center set up that we can go to for different classes, so whenever i get the chance i go there for their welding offerings.....anyways, the last time i was up there a guy from work asked me to weld some al brackets onto some al skis, so i said no problem....the first couple of welds were pretty as pie, then the next couple i couldn't get to melt together worth anything, and it was kind of hit or miss on each weld(wouldn't start a puddle, got dirty, ect.)...so i had the instructor, who has over 50 years of experience, take a look at it..we checked the gas, the gun, the machine, the electrode, and he still didn't have any more luck than i did........the only explanation was that possibly the metal itself just wasn't that good of aluminum, and perhaps it was contaminated.......i got it together, but it wasn't so pretty

last week i welded some aluminum brackets, pry 3/8 thick and it was in a tight spot so i tried using a 1/16 electrode sticking out of a #4 cup....i kept blowing up the tungsten so i went back to the 1/8(we don't have any 3/32 right now) in a wider cup, stuck it out of the cup a little more than i would normally(so i could reach the spot to be welded) and cranked the gas up to 35 psi instead of 25, and it worked great......

make sure you have a good ground, try using a bigger electrode, and if you are using a brush to clean the material make sure it has ONLY been used on aluminum....i welded a r/c nitro car exhaust one time, i think that's pretty much the only time i've had to use the 1/16" tungsten, with the thicker stuff the electrode can't take the heat generated from a/c and continuous high frequency.....

Lasershop

iTrader: (2)

Two words......Pre Heat (I use my gas torch) . Miracles occur.

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Anyone want to critique and bash my first attempt at tig welding?

Lasershop

iTrader: (2)

Looks fine........ let me see the inside

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

yeah dude, nice job .....from the surface it looks like you got good penatration, if the back side edges have "flowed" together, then you did......you could pry slow down a bit and add a little more filler to cut down on the undercut and keep the edges even, but as long as the back edge is solid that weld will get the job done.

Brains

iTrader: (7)

I didn't photo the inside, but it did indeed flow. I was actually surprised how it looked quite a bit like the top! I still need to work on torch position as I work around a round pipe, I find myself not at the correct angle in relation to the tube as I travel -- I need to learn to follow the curve with the torch instead of "stepping" the angle as I move. I also need to get my motion a little better, I'm currently more or less moving in a steady forward direction and only pausing slightly to add filler. From what I've read, it says the proper motion is to back up, dip the rod, and then move back over the puddle again?

I guess all my years of working over a soldering iron made it a little easier to pick up tig pretty quickly.