Question about TIG
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From: IL
Question about TIG Ok, I really just want to know how thick of material you can weld with this machine?
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...et.aspx?p=2512
We just got one at work, and my buddy was saying he wants one for the house. Well I said that its nice, but Id rather have a bigger machine, he then asked why. I replied that Id want to be able to weld thicker material, AKA a chromolly cage. He started to argue that it could weld a cage, and that hes done it (Which is BS)
To get to the point, will the welder posted above weld a NHRA legal Chromoly Cage?
Thanks,
Sean
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...et.aspx?p=2512
We just got one at work, and my buddy was saying he wants one for the house. Well I said that its nice, but Id rather have a bigger machine, he then asked why. I replied that Id want to be able to weld thicker material, AKA a chromolly cage. He started to argue that it could weld a cage, and that hes done it (Which is BS)
To get to the point, will the welder posted above weld a NHRA legal Chromoly Cage?
Thanks,
Sean
A 250dx or similar would burn a hole in roll cage tubing in seconds, 160amps should be fine to weld a cage with correct chamfering of tubes. The only reason shops buy larger welders is to have adjustability of the a/c welding (dig/clean, frequency, HF start) to make aluminum welding easier and better looking.
I welded 1.75" .120 wall mild steel tubing wednesday at work with no chamfer and got 70-80% penetration with a miller econotig (160a)pedal to the floor, 3/32 2%th 22scfm.
I welded 1.75" .120 wall mild steel tubing wednesday at work with no chamfer and got 70-80% penetration with a miller econotig (160a)pedal to the floor, 3/32 2%th 22scfm.
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From: Oxford MI
you can weld any mild steel, chrome molly and stainless you want. but the thing with models like this is you can't do aluminum. For aluminum you have to change from DC to AC. But it looks like a good piece.
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
i woud never use anything besides a miller welder....due to personal experience...but yes, that welder would do anything you could ever want out of your garage...except alluminum
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: IL
Well, I guess I lost that argument. Im a lil suprised to be honest, but then again I dont know very much about how TIG works. I did know (and so did he) that you cant do aluminum with that welder. We only do stainless at work, but that welder is like a back up anyway, all our other TIG's are AC/DC. Well even if it would do a cage, aluminum would be a must for me if I was gonna spend the money. I think Id rather have the Miller Econotig.
Thanks guys,
Sean
Thanks guys,
Sean
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
160 amps is a great starting point for a tig machine. you can weld lots of stuff with it. i would assume almost any roll cage should be no problem.
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The Invertec 205 which is the next step up from the 160 is a totally awesome machine I have used one at work quite often whine not using the precision tig 375...Aluminum of steel only thing I dont like is the size of the air cooled torch
I typically find I use much less amperage than 1 amp per .001 material with no penetration issues, can provide proof if needed, do a weld and cut across weld and take pics.
Here's an interesting basid guide that I found on TIG welders at the Miller web site http://www.millerwelds.com/education...rticles12.html. There are links to other information type articles there.
Steve
Steve
I would say unless welding stainless I am around that amp range. Stainless alittle less and aluminum a bit more.
I'd say its a good general guess, my preference has alwasy been to chamfer and weld at the lowest amperage possible taking breaks between passes to keep the heat effected zone small. Unless you're working on something that requires you preheat it.
If you are working with something that is thick enough to need to be bevelled then the heat range and sustained heat change. Most of these guys are talking about tubing that is .100 or thinner. I use as much heat as I can before you get an adverse effects. Stainless or other high alloys are the most sensative because of the fragility with over heating and burning off the chromium, nickel, silicon, etc.
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If you are working with something that is thick enough to need to be bevelled then the heat range and sustained heat change. Most of these guys are talking about tubing that is .100 or thinner. I use as much heat as I can before you get an adverse effects. Stainless or other high alloys are the most sensative because of the fragility with over heating and burning off the chromium, nickel, silicon, etc.
You are right. If you are welding anything over 1/4" you need to start thinking about beveling. If you use enough heat to get full penetration you are overheating the metal way too much. I weld steam pipe for a living, and that pipe has a wall thickness of 5/8" to over an inch. I never use amperage over 120. So, there really is no need for a 300 amp machine. Proper material preparation is just as important as just burning the metal.
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I weld both stainless and carbon. I hate the big pipe. Ive done some 60" pipe. Horrible work. Mostly what I weld is 2-24 inch sch. 160. Thick. Sometimes you can reach up there in amps like 135, but its not needed.
