So I couldn't find my older thread about the problems with my car, but it's an 02 Z28. I'd say 49/50 times, my car starts and drives absolutely fine. That one time it doesn't, the car will try to turn over, crank away and the fuel pressure gauge gets up to about 40 psi, but nothing happens. After trying to start it for anywhere up to like, 10 times, it finally turns over, and that's if I'm lucky.

A lot of people recommended VATS, so I had JBA remove it, and CMS verified that it had been removed as well, and things seemed to be fine. Had the fuel pump tested, and it was at 55 psi from what I was told. Yesterday, the car started fine after work after two rough days of it not starting that well, but when I was driving home @ 55 mph, the engine just died. I thought I was in neutral for a second because I was slowing down so I downshifted to third, the RPM's popped up about a grand, and then died.

Today I had it towed to a shop, and it started absolutely fine. (fml) They drove it a bit, turned it off, started it again, no problem.

They said most likely it's the fuel pump, and quoted me $300 for the labor and $500 for the part off the top of his head. I called another place and they said I was being way underquoted, and said it'd be easily $1300.

Any suggestions? Don't have that money regardless in cash so it'll be on a credit card, which I was really, really not looking to spend.

 

Someone near you on Tech who's familiar with making a fuel pump access panel should be able to help out for quite a bit less than that AND without dropping the rear end. Not sure if they'd take a credit card though. LOL. Check http://www.rockauto.com/ for prices on fuel pump assemblies, or now might be a good time to upgrade to a Walboro 255lph pump conversion if you're planning on increasing the power levels in the future or don't care about a noisy pump.

 

Thanks for the help, I'll check it out. I'd gladly pay cash for someone local to do it, I've been fortunate enough to have my transmission rebuilt by someone on here who did awesome work.

 

It is really somewhat simple to do by yourself, here this might help.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-mod-pics.html

here is part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_rmWLI4Lbs

 

Shop just called back, thank god they were able to replicate the problem. He said he thinks it's the crankshaft sensor because verything else they tested was fine...

 

If it is a failing crank position sensor (which does explain the symptoms... common 4.0L Jeep problem), here is the price range (before tax/shipping) for the part:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=7196

 

Cars are so weird sometimes. Good luck with that and hope they aren't guessing because that's what a lot of shops do.

 

Ya that sounds like it could be the issue with the crank sensor, i dont know whey that did not pop in my head.

 

They called back this morning. Replaced the crankshaft sensor and the car is still having the same issues, except now I'm on the hook for $180 and they're telling me it's the "security system in the ignition," which I TOLD them I had removed and verified by two different shops. Not the ******* news I needed to start my day...

 

The mechanic's words were, "the fuel pump is fine, everything else looks fine, when it doesn't start though there's absolutely no spark coming from the engine." That's why he thought it was the crankshafter sensor, and now he thinks it's VATS, even though he just referred to it as the "security system in the ignition."

Any help would be greatly appreciated, the car's my daily driver and once again I've spent more money on a diagnostic and partial repair without having the issue fixed...fml

 

Don't use that mechanic.

 

If you or anyone know/recommend any good mechanics in SD, I'm all ears. Or if any members on here have an idea of what it could be, I'm definitely more than willing to pay cash for the repair. I'm just desperate at this point, and I doubt the Chevy dealer would find anything if I took it there.

 

Picked the car up from the shop today; their "recommended service" is to take it to the Chevy dealer to check security system. Their notes said fuel pressure checked okay, ignition had no spark, may possibly have bad crank position sensor. REplaced new crankshaft position sensor, but didn't start. Has ignition security system problem.

 

I had VATS disabled and checked by another shop...is there a different ignition security system?

 

Was the VATS system removed, or bypassed? Look into getting the BCM checked, or find out exactly how the vats was taken out. If everything you already checked is working soundly, and you're not getting spark i'd still suspect something in that area.

The BCM sends a 50hz signal to the PCM when the right key is inserted (or properly bypassed) that gives the OK for the PCM to power to the coils. If the bcm became faulty, or the bypass was done incorrectly, or something of that nature, it could cause random problems in the starting of your car due to not having spark.

 

Update?

 

Update is that after the crankshaft position sensor was replaced, the car had the same problem. It's died twice on the road on me while driving (once on the highway) Luckily, when it died on the highway, it started back up.

I replaced the fuel pump relay and fuse, thought that was the problem, only for later on that night it to happen again. I'd say in the 20 times I've started/driven my car since I've gotten it back, I've had an issue about 4 times, so it's definitely happening now with a little bit more frequency. That, and I'm paranoid to drive so I stay in the right lane in case something happens.

I'm goign to try and post a video the next time it doesn't start so it hopefully helps anyone. I appreciate everyone's help and suggestions so far. I was really thinking it was the relay but I figured it was too good to be true.

And to the person earlier who had asked the question about VATS, I believe it was disabled, not bypassed because it was hooked up to a computer and programmed out.

 

Just got my 02 SS LE back yesterday. Had similar issues. Would run fine, if it started. Finally it did not start and I had it towed to dealer. Chevy said I had a bad connector in the fuse block that fried the relay to the fuel injectors. They fixed both and it starts, on first turn. Have only started 3 - 4 times so far. Hopefully that was it.

 

o man this sucks , im staying up with this in case you find a solution , and take it to the dealer.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I have a feeling it has to do with some sort of fuse or relay because the problem is so intermittent, maybe I'll finally cave and pay the dealership to take a look...how much did your repair cost, if you don't mind me asking? And did your car sometimes randomly not start? Where it tries to turn over and over and over and nothing?