How many of you guys have rolled your fenders with a baseball bat or a rubber mallet?
01-17-2009, 01:58 AM
#1
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How many of you guys have rolled your fenders with a baseball bat or a rubber mallet? Im thinking about rolling my fender this way so I can get it done tomorrow.
What is the process that you guys used, and how did it turn out? Any paint cracking? Ripples etc?
Thanks.
Patrick.
What is the process that you guys used, and how did it turn out? Any paint cracking? Ripples etc?
Thanks.
Patrick.
01-17-2009, 09:53 AM
#2
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I had to roll the fenders on my gf's car and at first used a fiberglass hammer handle. I heated up the fenders and used the handle to bend the fender back. It looked ok but the 20's still rubbed and the fender looked like crap.
After I bought the fender rolling tool I have I did the fenders on her car and it turned out great. Rolled them perfect and it looked "factory".
If you took your time with a bat I think it would turn good.
After I bought the fender rolling tool I have I did the fenders on her car and it turned out great. Rolled them perfect and it looked "factory".
If you took your time with a bat I think it would turn good.
01-17-2009, 10:06 AM
#3
Someone on here rents one out. Other car types I have seen people just lend them or some car clubs own one (as a group purchased deal) and lends it to any member of that club. Maybe search the clubs or pay that guy his fee to borrow his. I would use the right tool though!
01-17-2009, 10:26 AM
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Not to hijack, but I'm in Hays and that would work out perfectly for me if you were willing to do this again. Of course I will wait until the OP is done if he wants it but just let me know or I will pm you in a week or two! Thanks!!
01-17-2009, 09:06 PM
#6
DO NOT USE A BAT.
its an old school method for real steel bodies.
the cheap 1/4's on f bodys are too thin, IMO.
ive seen it done with a bat on a lt1 z28. when gas station lights hit the car at night you see lil dents and ripples.
if you need it done tomorrow, go to harbor frieght and buy a cheap air body saw and a pack of blades, and cut the metal out.
12 bucks for saw, 8 bucks for blades. be done in 5 minutes.
be careful if youve never used one. they get out of hand QUICK.
practice on spare metal.
its an old school method for real steel bodies.
the cheap 1/4's on f bodys are too thin, IMO.
ive seen it done with a bat on a lt1 z28. when gas station lights hit the car at night you see lil dents and ripples.
if you need it done tomorrow, go to harbor frieght and buy a cheap air body saw and a pack of blades, and cut the metal out.
12 bucks for saw, 8 bucks for blades. be done in 5 minutes.
be careful if youve never used one. they get out of hand QUICK.
practice on spare metal.
01-17-2009, 09:47 PM
#7
Cutting it is almost as bad as using a baseball bat. You are taking away some of the strength if you cut the lip and you end up with a sharp edge. Do it right and roll it. It doesn't have to be done tomorrow. 
DO NOT USE A BAT.
its an old school method for real steel bodies.
the cheap 1/4's on f bodys are too thin, IMO.
ive seen it done with a bat on a lt1 z28. when gas station lights hit the car at night you see lil dents and ripples.
if you need it done tomorrow, go to harbor frieght and buy a cheap air body saw and a pack of blades, and cut the metal out.
12 bucks for saw, 8 bucks for blades. be done in 5 minutes.
be careful if youve never used one. they get out of hand QUICK.
practice on spare metal.
its an old school method for real steel bodies.
the cheap 1/4's on f bodys are too thin, IMO.
ive seen it done with a bat on a lt1 z28. when gas station lights hit the car at night you see lil dents and ripples.
if you need it done tomorrow, go to harbor frieght and buy a cheap air body saw and a pack of blades, and cut the metal out.
12 bucks for saw, 8 bucks for blades. be done in 5 minutes.
be careful if youve never used one. they get out of hand QUICK.
practice on spare metal.
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01-18-2009, 10:44 AM
#9
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Just don't cut beyond the spot welds and you are not loosing any strength.
Come back, sand the cut area with 80 grit, and paint it. It will be smooth.
Every car that I have seen rolled, Eastwood tool, bat, mallet, whatever, has made the the quarter ripple. It may be subtle in some cases, but is always there. Some colors will hide it better, but there is no way you are going to take a double-thick piece of body metal and contour it without distorting the adjacent areas.
Come back, sand the cut area with 80 grit, and paint it. It will be smooth.
Every car that I have seen rolled, Eastwood tool, bat, mallet, whatever, has made the the quarter ripple. It may be subtle in some cases, but is always there. Some colors will hide it better, but there is no way you are going to take a double-thick piece of body metal and contour it without distorting the adjacent areas.
03-18-2010, 01:44 PM
#10
I used a heat gun and a baseball bat. It turned out well, but was actually somewhat difficult and took several hours (had never done it before, so I didn't want to jack up my fender).
And yes, I know this thread is a couple months old, but figured I'd give my 2 cents.
And yes, I know this thread is a couple months old, but figured I'd give my 2 cents.
03-19-2010, 08:51 PM
#12
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My two cents - rent a fender roller and use a heat gun. Go slow, do it right, and no regrets. That's how i rolled mine, and no blemishes or dimples - you can't tell they are rolled until you put your hand in there
.
BobP
.BobP
