Racer and street 15" wheel users, you wanted it, we will built it
06-20-2009, 01:35 PM
#1
Racer and street 15" wheel users, you wanted it, we will built it Racers,
Time and time, many of you have posted you want a 15" setup that you want for the street. You want a setup design that is durable to be used as a street wheel you can drive without concern as well as using them at the drag strip when you go. We are now completing a design that will fit the bill. Racing benefits regarding best performance will always stay with our direct fit drag setup; this is a solution for the ones who want a street design.
These will be direct fit STREET and or STRIP wheels that you can use however you wish. The special warranty in synopsis will be ...you break them under normal use and design intent; we will replace the component or wheel at our discretion up to three years for the original owner!!
The designs are based from our bolted road race and drag race pieces. These are not a road race wheel, these are not a drag only wheel; it will be a street and or strip setup. If you want a design you see in a welded version, let me know, I can discuss turning it into a bolted style.
If you want these 15's built as our true road race wheel, we can accommodate those users as well. As always, we will continued to offer drag wheel based setups who want to retain ultimate weight loss and direct fitment for the drag racer.
These street or strip designs will be a combination design which I can build for you from 15x4 all the way up to 15x17" in any combination front or rear. They will be design with a variety of backspace choices. Front wheels will have be set at a minimum of 1.75" backspace to tuck the wheel inward. This front wheel combination will tuck better than any other street/strip combination setup currently on the market. We also offer configurations that no one else is offering. Billet caps, multiple anodized colors or bolt on stems are options.
An intro LS1Tech pricing configuration and setup for our STREET or STRIP wheel is as followed:
Wheels include rubber grommets and chrome caps.
15x4 fronts 380.00/wheel (caps and stems included)
15x10 rears 435.00/wheel (caps and stems included)
Total front/rears: 1630.00
Upgrades:
Bolt-on short chrome-valve stems
Machined billet caps
Anodized centers
Anodized billet caps
What we are offering is a custom designed setup offering a solution like none others. Please contact myself or Rich if you have additional questions or concerns.
Feel free to comment positive or negative questions. I would be happy to address each person’s thoughts. We listen to the F-body community and as always want to offer solutions for you.
Time and time, many of you have posted you want a 15" setup that you want for the street. You want a setup design that is durable to be used as a street wheel you can drive without concern as well as using them at the drag strip when you go. We are now completing a design that will fit the bill. Racing benefits regarding best performance will always stay with our direct fit drag setup; this is a solution for the ones who want a street design.
These will be direct fit STREET and or STRIP wheels that you can use however you wish. The special warranty in synopsis will be ...you break them under normal use and design intent; we will replace the component or wheel at our discretion up to three years for the original owner!!
The designs are based from our bolted road race and drag race pieces. These are not a road race wheel, these are not a drag only wheel; it will be a street and or strip setup. If you want a design you see in a welded version, let me know, I can discuss turning it into a bolted style.
If you want these 15's built as our true road race wheel, we can accommodate those users as well. As always, we will continued to offer drag wheel based setups who want to retain ultimate weight loss and direct fitment for the drag racer.
These street or strip designs will be a combination design which I can build for you from 15x4 all the way up to 15x17" in any combination front or rear. They will be design with a variety of backspace choices. Front wheels will have be set at a minimum of 1.75" backspace to tuck the wheel inward. This front wheel combination will tuck better than any other street/strip combination setup currently on the market. We also offer configurations that no one else is offering. Billet caps, multiple anodized colors or bolt on stems are options.
An intro LS1Tech pricing configuration and setup for our STREET or STRIP wheel is as followed:
Wheels include rubber grommets and chrome caps.
15x4 fronts 380.00/wheel (caps and stems included)
15x10 rears 435.00/wheel (caps and stems included)
Total front/rears: 1630.00
Upgrades:
Bolt-on short chrome-valve stems
Machined billet caps
Anodized centers
Anodized billet caps
What we are offering is a custom designed setup offering a solution like none others. Please contact myself or Rich if you have additional questions or concerns.
Feel free to comment positive or negative questions. I would be happy to address each person’s thoughts. We listen to the F-body community and as always want to offer solutions for you.
06-20-2009, 04:52 PM
#4
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Thank your for stepping up to the plate and helping out the ls1 community with these wheels! Do you have an idea of the weight of these wheels?? I'd like to see how these compare to your other bogart wheels.
06-20-2009, 10:13 PM
#5
I'll put a few together and let you know the weight of the pieces. They are not going to be as light as our drag setups as the shell material will be thicker and the centers completely different...so you're not going to have the same racing benefits.
This setup is going to directly address the folks who want a street or strip version wheel but in 15's. Don't get me wrong, it will still be light.
...It will address as well the folks who want varied sizes for the fronts as well. I wish I build the wheels for less, I suppose you can look at it as they still are less expensive than welds new street RT version yet we still offer customized setups that isn't offered anywhere else. Our backspace options will also be greater too which is another plus.
I'd love to hear more comments. Please keep comments coming both good and or bad. Feedback is always a good thing.
This setup is going to directly address the folks who want a street or strip version wheel but in 15's. Don't get me wrong, it will still be light.
...It will address as well the folks who want varied sizes for the fronts as well. I wish I build the wheels for less, I suppose you can look at it as they still are less expensive than welds new street RT version yet we still offer customized setups that isn't offered anywhere else. Our backspace options will also be greater too which is another plus.
I'd love to hear more comments. Please keep comments coming both good and or bad. Feedback is always a good thing.
06-21-2009, 12:14 AM
#7
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Here is a question, I have always liked the fact that with Billet Specialties, I could get a 17x7, 17x11 and a 15x10 that would all match.
Now, what could you guys do in a 17x7, 17x12 and a 15x10 that would all match also? I would like something strong enough to run all the time if I wanted to, and then also be a little on the light side, so I can take them to the strip and now worry about changing the fronts. Thanks Steve.
Now, what could you guys do in a 17x7, 17x12 and a 15x10 that would all match also? I would like something strong enough to run all the time if I wanted to, and then also be a little on the light side, so I can take them to the strip and now worry about changing the fronts. Thanks Steve.
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06-21-2009, 01:16 AM
#8
Supersport4life: They will be heavier than the drag version weld prostars. Remember this is a street and strip use wheel so that would be atypical in design. The weld prostars are a drag only wheel.
I am unsure of the weight of welds new street/strip wheels. I believe the rears are ~16.5 lbs, but not sure of the fronts. I'm assuming the fronts are not far off as I believe the centers are the same, this leads the only difference being is 6" of material in the barrel portion of the shells. I'll assume the material in the front shells is thicker than the rears to combat higher stress. It's possibly a few lbs less. If I knew the material was the same mil. thickness, its rather simple to get a close calculated number based on dimensional material and material density. Maybe someone can clarify regarding average shell mil. thickness if they have real measured numbers. It seems some folks post numbers all over the place based on varied measuring techniques (scale used of course). I don't have their wheels in front of me or in hand to measure or weigh.
I know weight is important, folk’s wants strength and durability...so we will do our best to keep numbers down while keeping the integrity for the intended purpose of a strong durable wheel being 15". To leave some at ease for the time being, they should not be heavier than the other two street/strip combo's. I will try to have more concrete numbers during the workweek shortly.
DopdBrd: We can offer ALL matching. The new design we're discussing in here, our original P1 drag design or road race design.
This means, if you wanted a road race setup for road racing, you could interchange any of them for street driving using our new design and interchange any combo for the drag wheels at the track.
...a few tidbits of info regarding varying designs. This discussion would be a guidline all wheel manufactures.
-A road race wheel should be the most durable design. It will provide the best performance for road racing. Its a combination of high strength lightweight materials. It will outlast the typical street wheel, street/strip wheel or drag wheel. Road race wheels can be used pretty much any road situation.
-A street wheel is generally not the strength of a road race wheel but is stronger than a drag wheel. Its designed for street situations, they generally are not as durable as a road race wheel obviously as named suited best general street usage.
-A drag wheel is designed for drag racing and straight line performance giving the best performance regarding drag racing. It’s not going to provide a suitable solution for road racing and limited use for street driving due to the nature of design.
Please keep questions coming. Hopefully information I'm providing will help each user make their best educated decision regarding what they want in products they purchase.
I am unsure of the weight of welds new street/strip wheels. I believe the rears are ~16.5 lbs, but not sure of the fronts. I'm assuming the fronts are not far off as I believe the centers are the same, this leads the only difference being is 6" of material in the barrel portion of the shells. I'll assume the material in the front shells is thicker than the rears to combat higher stress. It's possibly a few lbs less. If I knew the material was the same mil. thickness, its rather simple to get a close calculated number based on dimensional material and material density. Maybe someone can clarify regarding average shell mil. thickness if they have real measured numbers. It seems some folks post numbers all over the place based on varied measuring techniques (scale used of course). I don't have their wheels in front of me or in hand to measure or weigh.
I know weight is important, folk’s wants strength and durability...so we will do our best to keep numbers down while keeping the integrity for the intended purpose of a strong durable wheel being 15". To leave some at ease for the time being, they should not be heavier than the other two street/strip combo's. I will try to have more concrete numbers during the workweek shortly.
DopdBrd: We can offer ALL matching. The new design we're discussing in here, our original P1 drag design or road race design.
This means, if you wanted a road race setup for road racing, you could interchange any of them for street driving using our new design and interchange any combo for the drag wheels at the track.
...a few tidbits of info regarding varying designs. This discussion would be a guidline all wheel manufactures.
-A road race wheel should be the most durable design. It will provide the best performance for road racing. Its a combination of high strength lightweight materials. It will outlast the typical street wheel, street/strip wheel or drag wheel. Road race wheels can be used pretty much any road situation.
-A street wheel is generally not the strength of a road race wheel but is stronger than a drag wheel. Its designed for street situations, they generally are not as durable as a road race wheel obviously as named suited best general street usage.
-A drag wheel is designed for drag racing and straight line performance giving the best performance regarding drag racing. It’s not going to provide a suitable solution for road racing and limited use for street driving due to the nature of design.
Please keep questions coming. Hopefully information I'm providing will help each user make their best educated decision regarding what they want in products they purchase.
06-21-2009, 09:43 PM
#9
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Steve,
One correction to your post. The Weld Racing Prostars are a Street/Strip wheel. Even though they are listed as Drag Racing for certain sizes, they are all worthy of street use up to 1200# and are warrantied as such.
One correction to your post. The Weld Racing Prostars are a Street/Strip wheel. Even though they are listed as Drag Racing for certain sizes, they are all worthy of street use up to 1200# and are warrantied as such.
06-22-2009, 06:47 AM
#10
Thank you for clarifying. I do stand corrected. It's the larger sizes that would be considered street/strip worthy. The "skinnies" and such are stamped "For drag racing only" directly on the face of the wheel. Unfortunately, this is part of the combo that works on the F-body that people want/use. Why I generally lump them into the drag catetory setup. Larger wheels do not work well. It’s a bit difficult to explain to a police offer too when they see the large stamp "For drag use only" (as they ticket/tow you). Prostars/draglites are choices that I mention folks to consider as a good economy setup if they don't mind modifing the car to make them work.
Last edited by SJM Manufacturing Inc; 06-22-2009 at 06:54 AM.
06-22-2009, 08:33 PM
#14
Components are being put together. Weights will vary slightly depending on center design. Obviously a center with less material i.e. Bolted RT will be lighter vs. a center like our Billet Lite.
Taking an educated approximation at this point from what we've measured, we are looking at ~14-16lbs for the rear, 11-13 for the front. They will be right in line with most other current street or strip setups. Our advantages will be fitment w/better fitting front wheels, many styled centers, customization and options available.
We can accommodate the lightest direct fit drag setup for your car currently if weight is very important to you. The lower the weight, the more dramatic effect it will have in all performance areas...shorter 60 ft times, better braking distances, faster suspension reaction, less stress on the driveline etc. It really does make a difference of which I've discussed many times previously. Unfortunately, you can't have the best of both worlds.
If you want the best performing setup, the drag version is the way to go. Our Bolted drag versions specifically made for the LS1 right now are very durable and have stood the test of time with the 4th gen guys. We've got in ~15 years from 4th gen F-bodies about 7 people who've damaged their Bolted wheels. Though I'd like to boast none, I wouldn't consider that a very high number. The internet spreads rumors of people who have friends of friends who have heard they our wheels break all the time. By admission, most of the 4th gen crowd is using them on the street. Our non-bolted wheels are not as durable; we have about 4X the amount of failures.
We do have other series of which are super strong that we've never had a failure from any car from the beginning of production...and some that I wouldn't recommend anyone to use anywhere BUT on the track. If the person is using the wheels for something they weren't meant to be used...they take the risk of damaging wheels. A number of failures were due to the use of VW radial front tires which are designed for a wider wheel...take that plus overinflating the tires and inherently stiff, it doesn't help the cause.
Taking an educated approximation at this point from what we've measured, we are looking at ~14-16lbs for the rear, 11-13 for the front. They will be right in line with most other current street or strip setups. Our advantages will be fitment w/better fitting front wheels, many styled centers, customization and options available.
We can accommodate the lightest direct fit drag setup for your car currently if weight is very important to you. The lower the weight, the more dramatic effect it will have in all performance areas...shorter 60 ft times, better braking distances, faster suspension reaction, less stress on the driveline etc. It really does make a difference of which I've discussed many times previously. Unfortunately, you can't have the best of both worlds.
If you want the best performing setup, the drag version is the way to go. Our Bolted drag versions specifically made for the LS1 right now are very durable and have stood the test of time with the 4th gen guys. We've got in ~15 years from 4th gen F-bodies about 7 people who've damaged their Bolted wheels. Though I'd like to boast none, I wouldn't consider that a very high number. The internet spreads rumors of people who have friends of friends who have heard they our wheels break all the time. By admission, most of the 4th gen crowd is using them on the street. Our non-bolted wheels are not as durable; we have about 4X the amount of failures.
We do have other series of which are super strong that we've never had a failure from any car from the beginning of production...and some that I wouldn't recommend anyone to use anywhere BUT on the track. If the person is using the wheels for something they weren't meant to be used...they take the risk of damaging wheels. A number of failures were due to the use of VW radial front tires which are designed for a wider wheel...take that plus overinflating the tires and inherently stiff, it doesn't help the cause.
06-23-2009, 09:01 AM
#16
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Please keep in mind Weld Racing also has the R/T series products. These have 6 different designs in polished and black machined centers. They have additional clearance for late model brakes. With the use of a forged center section and a drawn (not spun, there is a major difference) 2 piece rim shell, these wheels can handle both street and strip as well! These are true 3 piece wheels built with the same technology that goes into Weld's Pro Drag series products. I would consider these wheels the top of the market for looks and strength.
06-23-2009, 10:43 AM
#17
Structurally, deep drawn shells have limitations compared to spun shells, there are major differences as suggested. There's quite a bit of discussion which could take place regarding processes. This is not the medium to discuss difference as its going to be far above folk’s interest level as well as comprehension.
For all intensive purposes, our designs as well as welds should be considered strong street versions. The process how each manufactures calculates a solution is a moot point. As long as both are designed to meet their design intent...that's what matters.
Weld new option shouldn't be discounted they are very nice wheels. I believe their front wheel backspace option is a bit too shallow at 1.5" but that is also another topic of discussion. Their philosophy as most manufactures appears to be one size fits most which generally doesn't fit all well. Not every vehicle is designed the same… Ours niche is customization and attention to detail for each wheel we produce for the end user. I would be happy to compare and contrast our products verses competition.
I feel the general population when comparing products considers (or at least should) the following (no particular order):
1) Weight of product and their benefits
2) Design (what they want the wheel to look like)
3) Cost
4) Fitment
5) Options
6) Warranty
I'd like to hear others list comparisons of what they think and feel. What they want in the product, what they expect etc. My perspective is from an engineering view...which can be sometimes different than the average consumer. That's where I'd like to take this post. It helps us create products for you, the end user, which help you meet your goals.
For all intensive purposes, our designs as well as welds should be considered strong street versions. The process how each manufactures calculates a solution is a moot point. As long as both are designed to meet their design intent...that's what matters.
Weld new option shouldn't be discounted they are very nice wheels. I believe their front wheel backspace option is a bit too shallow at 1.5" but that is also another topic of discussion. Their philosophy as most manufactures appears to be one size fits most which generally doesn't fit all well. Not every vehicle is designed the same… Ours niche is customization and attention to detail for each wheel we produce for the end user. I would be happy to compare and contrast our products verses competition.
I feel the general population when comparing products considers (or at least should) the following (no particular order):
1) Weight of product and their benefits
2) Design (what they want the wheel to look like)
3) Cost
4) Fitment
5) Options
6) Warranty
I'd like to hear others list comparisons of what they think and feel. What they want in the product, what they expect etc. My perspective is from an engineering view...which can be sometimes different than the average consumer. That's where I'd like to take this post. It helps us create products for you, the end user, which help you meet your goals.
06-23-2009, 01:07 PM
#19
Good news. We do offer anodizing, blue, black, gold and red. We also offer on our billet caps the option to anodize those as well. This would be for any of our bolted configurations, drag, road race and LS1 street pieces.
On a personal note, I don't care for anodized wheels. I prefer the high polished luster of the aluminum. Here's why...Anodizing always scared me when on a wheel. It's alot more difficult to maintain, if you scratch them by say dropping a lug nut or a get a chip from a rock...it's there for good and can't be easily buffed out like aluminum can.
Please keep the questions/comments comming. Good and or bad.
06-23-2009, 01:58 PM
#20
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Fiske makes very nice wheels. They have nice high-end pieces that are unbelievable. They are out of the budget of most though. I really like some of the designs I've seen.
Good news. We do offer anodizing, blue, black, gold and red. We also offer on our billet caps the option to anodize those as well. This would be for any of our bolted configurations, drag, road race and LS1 street pieces.
On a personal note, I don't care for anodized wheels. I prefer the high polished luster of the aluminum. Here's why...Anodizing always scared me when on a wheel. It's alot more difficult to maintain, if you scratch them by say dropping a lug nut or a get a chip from a rock...it's there for good and can't be easily buffed out like aluminum can.
Please keep the questions/comments comming. Good and or bad.
Good news. We do offer anodizing, blue, black, gold and red. We also offer on our billet caps the option to anodize those as well. This would be for any of our bolted configurations, drag, road race and LS1 street pieces.
On a personal note, I don't care for anodized wheels. I prefer the high polished luster of the aluminum. Here's why...Anodizing always scared me when on a wheel. It's alot more difficult to maintain, if you scratch them by say dropping a lug nut or a get a chip from a rock...it's there for good and can't be easily buffed out like aluminum can.
Please keep the questions/comments comming. Good and or bad.
I like polished, but have been loving the anodized look that my Fikse's have now.
Would you happen to have some pics of D10's or RR's with anodized centers?