93M6Formula

My buddy just bought 17x9 and 17x11 ZR1 replicas for his 94 Z28 and he ended up using 5/16" spaces and a hammer to get his 335's to fit. Well I knew right away he would need studs because there was definitely not enough thread left to bolt them on safely.

I made him buy ARP wheel studs and they should be here this week. My question is, is it better to pull the axles and press them in or can we get away with popping the old ones out with the axles in and suck them in with a lug nut?
I don't want to do that because it just seems sketchy to me but my other friend who works at a tire shop says he does it all the time....

Thoughts on this?
Thanks

vatechguy3

iTrader: (4)

they fit out through the hole for the wheel sensor and pull in great with a lug nut.
i wasted two old lug nuts, one per side, pulling them in.

much easier than pulling the axles.

tony

LS1CMR

iTrader: (12)

they make a tool to pull them using a lug nut that doesnt destroy the lugnut

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

If im not mistaken, that only works for 4 channel rear ends.

The axles are not hard to pull, and if the gear oil hasnt been changed in a while, then it wouldnt hurt anyway.

Pull the wheel, brake caliper, rotor. Pop the cover off, and remove the paddle (one bolt) push the axles in, pull the c-clips out with a magnet, then pull the axles. Then just reverse the process and throw some new oil in it.

I have the shorter ARPs in my SOM.

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

this is how mine were done, pulling the axles isnt hard but the lug nut way is alot easier, and why change the gear oil, the 10 bolt will break way before that needs changed lol

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

sorry im a lil out there at this time , i have good reasons

Mr. Trick

iTrader: (19)

I used the lug nut method also. My car has a 3 channel rear so I had to drill the backing plate.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

DO NOT DRIVE WITH 5/16" SPACERS ON STOCK STUDS. They WILL break, I've seen it done, and luckily the person was going 10 MPH. Sheered off all 5 studs and the wheel went flying off, messing up the wheel, brakes, and body.

I've put in ARP studs twice in different cars. One had 4channel, and the other had 3channel. The 4channel is easy, but you gotta grind the head SLIGHTLY into a D shape to clear the reluctor ring. USE A CLOSED END WRENCH ON THE BASE, AND A BIG STACK OF WASHERS UNDER THE NUT. It will help save the studs and lug nuts. Sliding a closed end wrench on the base under the washers will help you pull off the washers when you are done. I made sure to use a lug nut per stud, because the more you use a nut, the more messed up it gets resulting in crappy studs.

On the 3channel car, there is a dimple in the axle where the "4channel ABS sensor WOULD be". I drilled a pilot hole, and used a step bit to open up that hole. A step bit will cut through very easily. I was then able to slide the new studs through without having to pull the axles.

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

I did exactly this as well!

Tommyv8

iTrader: (8)

I pulled the new ARP studs through the front wheel hubs using the old lug nut method and it worked great. Those studs are pretty strong and shouldn't stretch.