For those wanting to only upgrade speakers for CAMARO'S, COME IN HERE!
09-12-2004, 05:11 PM
#122
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Help,
At the begining of this thread the color of the wires for the door speakers is mentioned , Blue/Light Blue, but not the polarity of each wire, I read through the whole thread but didn't find which is positive and which is negative. Can anyone help with this?
Thanks
At the begining of this thread the color of the wires for the door speakers is mentioned , Blue/Light Blue, but not the polarity of each wire, I read through the whole thread but didn't find which is positive and which is negative. Can anyone help with this?
Thanks
Last edited by FMJ; 09-12-2004 at 05:30 PM. Reason: spelling
09-12-2004, 05:33 PM
#123
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I had the driver side door speaker in my 2001 Z28 blow a month or so ago. I've spent the last month evaluating various options for replacing it. I finally decided to go with the advice presented in this thread and picked up a pair of the Alpine SPS-170A speakers from Circuit City.
Here is another marked up picture of the back side of the Alpines as they come out of the box. My intention was that this picture complement the one west1055 attached to this post. (The little arrows on the wires leading to and from the capacitor are intended to show the flow of power)
Here is a picture of the speaker with the stock harness wires soldered on.
This is a closeup of the backside of the modified speaker.
This is a picture of the speaker attached to the stock baffle (whatever it's called}
Finally, This is a picture of the speaker in the car taken right before I tightened the screws and put the door panel back in place.
I made the assumption that the red/black wire was negative and that the red wire was positive. I first cut the midbass leads from the stock speakers (I don't remember if they were the longer or the shorter of the two sets, but you can tell which is which by looking at where the wires go in the speaker.) I then soldered to midbass leads to one set of the wires that were packaged with the Alpines.
Then I cut the tweeter leads off the stock speakers. I cut the negative tweeter wire at the prong on the Alpine and soldered the harness negative wire to the tweeter negative wire. Then I cut the capacitor leg that was connected to the positive prong on the Alpine and soldered the positive tweeter harness wire to the capacitor leg.
Then I attached the speaker to the stock baffle and bolted the baffle back into the car.
My car is a 2001 Z28, and it has the Monsoon system in it. The dealership was wanting $75 (!) for a replacement Monsoon speaker. Circuit City had the Alpines for $89.99 a pair, so it was a pretty good deal, even with the extra cost of the 2-year protection plan.
It sounds pretty good. Even with the fader set in the middle, I can still hear the Alpines loud and clear, although the rear deck speakers are more noticable now than they were before.
If you have a blown door speaker, this is an excellent way to replace them.
Here is another marked up picture of the back side of the Alpines as they come out of the box. My intention was that this picture complement the one west1055 attached to this post. (The little arrows on the wires leading to and from the capacitor are intended to show the flow of power)
Here is a picture of the speaker with the stock harness wires soldered on.
This is a closeup of the backside of the modified speaker.
This is a picture of the speaker attached to the stock baffle (whatever it's called}
Finally, This is a picture of the speaker in the car taken right before I tightened the screws and put the door panel back in place.
I made the assumption that the red/black wire was negative and that the red wire was positive. I first cut the midbass leads from the stock speakers (I don't remember if they were the longer or the shorter of the two sets, but you can tell which is which by looking at where the wires go in the speaker.) I then soldered to midbass leads to one set of the wires that were packaged with the Alpines.
Then I cut the tweeter leads off the stock speakers. I cut the negative tweeter wire at the prong on the Alpine and soldered the harness negative wire to the tweeter negative wire. Then I cut the capacitor leg that was connected to the positive prong on the Alpine and soldered the positive tweeter harness wire to the capacitor leg.
Then I attached the speaker to the stock baffle and bolted the baffle back into the car.
My car is a 2001 Z28, and it has the Monsoon system in it. The dealership was wanting $75 (!) for a replacement Monsoon speaker. Circuit City had the Alpines for $89.99 a pair, so it was a pretty good deal, even with the extra cost of the 2-year protection plan.
It sounds pretty good. Even with the fader set in the middle, I can still hear the Alpines loud and clear, although the rear deck speakers are more noticable now than they were before.
If you have a blown door speaker, this is an excellent way to replace them.
Last edited by thanselm; 09-12-2004 at 05:40 PM.
09-12-2004, 07:17 PM
#124
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Thanks,
I bought the 170a's today at circuit city, and also the pioneer ts-g1017's ($24.00 plus tax) for the hatch area from pep boys. I found the same color config back there as well, Red/Black, hooked them up making the assumption that red was pos and blk was neg, The new hatch speakers sound great compared to the stockers. I will install the 170a's in the doors this week. I am waiting for a pair of image dynamics cx 62's to arrive from cardomain.com to replace the subs in the back seat/sail area. Very happy so far.
FMJ
Black 02 Z-28, K&N filter, Hypertech programming, 160' therm
No idea how fast it is........
I bought the 170a's today at circuit city, and also the pioneer ts-g1017's ($24.00 plus tax) for the hatch area from pep boys. I found the same color config back there as well, Red/Black, hooked them up making the assumption that red was pos and blk was neg, The new hatch speakers sound great compared to the stockers. I will install the 170a's in the doors this week. I am waiting for a pair of image dynamics cx 62's to arrive from cardomain.com to replace the subs in the back seat/sail area. Very happy so far.
FMJ
Black 02 Z-28, K&N filter, Hypertech programming, 160' therm
No idea how fast it is........
09-13-2004, 11:11 AM
#125
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Originally Posted by thanselm
I This is a closeup of the backside of the modified speaker.
Would that cause any problems with the sound? So far they seem to be working just fine.
TS
09-14-2004, 12:05 PM
#126
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just did mine this weekend, and all i can say is wow. this is a great upgrade, espcially for the money. everyone who heard it is very impressed that all i changed were the front speakers. highly recommend doing this to anyone, only took about 1.5-2 hours while taking my time.
09-14-2004, 06:24 PM
#127
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Got my CX62's today, installed them and they sound great. They really expose the weak door speakers. The CX62's are 2 ohm "midrange" 1 way speakers. So far all the speakers I have installed matched the impedance of the speakers they replaced, Hatch and backseat/sail area speakers. The color scheme of the sail area speakers in my 02 Z-28 drivers side was: green/blk stripe to the A side of the speaker, blue/white stripe to B, passenger side was light blue/blk stripe to A, solid green to B side of the speaker. I made the assumtion that the A side of the speaker was positive, if anyone out there knows for sure which is which, let me know. I will post as soon as the door speakers are changed out. All in all I am very happy so far.
09-17-2004, 06:12 PM
#128
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Finished 
with the door speakers today, they sound way better than stock. Anyone know for sure which wires for the subs in the back seat are the positive ones?, this is the only thing left that is nagging me, the system sounds great, but I cant help wondering if the polarity on the subs is correct.
FMJ
with the door speakers today, they sound way better than stock. Anyone know for sure which wires for the subs in the back seat are the positive ones?, this is the only thing left that is nagging me, the system sounds great, but I cant help wondering if the polarity on the subs is correct.FMJ
09-18-2004, 08:08 AM
#129
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Originally Posted by FMJ
Finished with the door speakers today, they sound way better than stock. Anyone know for sure which wires for the subs in the back seat are the positive ones?, this is the only thing left that is nagging me, the system sounds great, but I cant help wondering if the polarity on the subs is correct.
FMJ
with the door speakers today, they sound way better than stock. Anyone know for sure which wires for the subs in the back seat are the positive ones?, this is the only thing left that is nagging me, the system sounds great, but I cant help wondering if the polarity on the subs is correct.FMJ
09-18-2004, 03:01 PM
#130
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I was talking about the car wiring, the aftermarket speakers are marked. Good tip for figuring it out with unmarked speakers, thanks!. Guess I could hook up the battery to the stock subs, then knowing where the car wiring connected to them it would tell me which wires were the positive ones, thanks again. 
FMJ
UPDATE!!!!! The positive wires for the back seat speakers are blue with white stripe on the drivers side and the light blue with black stripe on the pass, and of course, I had them backwards
.....needless to say I now have MUCH more bass. This speaker upgrade is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
FMJ
UPDATE!!!!! The positive wires for the back seat speakers are blue with white stripe on the drivers side and the light blue with black stripe on the pass, and of course, I had them backwards
.....needless to say I now have MUCH more bass. This speaker upgrade is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Last edited by FMJ; 09-18-2004 at 03:55 PM.
09-21-2004, 06:58 PM
#132
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For the people who tried this and didn't get the results you where looking for double check and make sure you have the speaker polarity correct!!!!! this is critical, if they are not correct your system will sound like crap. I used the image dynamics cx-62's, alpine sps-170a's and pioneer ts-g1017, got maybe $270.00 into this, and for the way I listen to my stereo, a system that sounds much better than the stock system. Just gotta find all the rattles and vibrations that have appeared with the improved bass.
FMJ
FMJ
09-23-2004, 08:39 PM
#133
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i'd highly recommend to anyone not to buy aftermarket 6.5" subs. if you want bass, buy a real sub, spend the money on it, and it will sound tons better than these 6.5" subs.
the biggest problem with the stock system is the amp. the speakers suck and blow quickly, but the amp has serious problems with distortion. even with the alpine speakers there is still a good amount of distortion.
the biggest problem with the stock system is the amp. the speakers suck and blow quickly, but the amp has serious problems with distortion. even with the alpine speakers there is still a good amount of distortion.
09-24-2004, 04:32 AM
#134
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2 words, I disagree.....
If you want everyone in a 2 block radius to hear your stereo, then buy all the goodies and put em in. I'm very happy how my install turned out, more than loud enough without distortion for my taste.
FMJ
If you want everyone in a 2 block radius to hear your stereo, then buy all the goodies and put em in. I'm very happy how my install turned out, more than loud enough without distortion for my taste.
FMJ
09-24-2004, 06:23 AM
#135
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Buying a sub, box, and amp is going to run you more than the $270 that FMJ has invested in his entire set of speakers too. Plus this will leave you with clean bass playing over the top of distorted, crappy, stock speakers and amp.
Also, I think that a lot of people looking for replacement speaker ideas in this thread have blown their factory speakers and don't want to spend the money to replace them with the same junk stockers.
Also, I think that a lot of people looking for replacement speaker ideas in this thread have blown their factory speakers and don't want to spend the money to replace them with the same junk stockers.
09-28-2004, 11:08 AM
#136
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Originally Posted by thanselm
I had the driver side door speaker in my 2001 Z28 blow a month or so ago. I've spent the last month evaluating various options for replacing it. I finally decided to go with the advice presented in this thread and picked up a pair of the Alpine SPS-170A speakers from Circuit City.
Here is another marked up picture of the back side of the Alpines as they come out of the box. My intention was that this picture complement the one west1055 attached to this post. (The little arrows on the wires leading to and from the capacitor are intended to show the flow of power)
Here is a picture of the speaker with the stock harness wires soldered on.
This is a closeup of the backside of the modified speaker.
This is a picture of the speaker attached to the stock baffle (whatever it's called}
Finally, This is a picture of the speaker in the car taken right before I tightened the screws and put the door panel back in place.
I made the assumption that the red/black wire was negative and that the red wire was positive. I first cut the midbass leads from the stock speakers (I don't remember if they were the longer or the shorter of the two sets, but you can tell which is which by looking at where the wires go in the speaker.) I then soldered to midbass leads to one set of the wires that were packaged with the Alpines.
Then I cut the tweeter leads off the stock speakers. I cut the negative tweeter wire at the prong on the Alpine and soldered the harness negative wire to the tweeter negative wire. Then I cut the capacitor leg that was connected to the positive prong on the Alpine and soldered the positive tweeter harness wire to the capacitor leg.
Then I attached the speaker to the stock baffle and bolted the baffle back into the car.
My car is a 2001 Z28, and it has the Monsoon system in it. The dealership was wanting $75 (!) for a replacement Monsoon speaker. Circuit City had the Alpines for $89.99 a pair, so it was a pretty good deal, even with the extra cost of the 2-year protection plan.
It sounds pretty good. Even with the fader set in the middle, I can still hear the Alpines loud and clear, although the rear deck speakers are more noticable now than they were before.
If you have a blown door speaker, this is an excellent way to replace them.
Here is another marked up picture of the back side of the Alpines as they come out of the box. My intention was that this picture complement the one west1055 attached to this post. (The little arrows on the wires leading to and from the capacitor are intended to show the flow of power)
Here is a picture of the speaker with the stock harness wires soldered on.
This is a closeup of the backside of the modified speaker.
This is a picture of the speaker attached to the stock baffle (whatever it's called}
Finally, This is a picture of the speaker in the car taken right before I tightened the screws and put the door panel back in place.
I made the assumption that the red/black wire was negative and that the red wire was positive. I first cut the midbass leads from the stock speakers (I don't remember if they were the longer or the shorter of the two sets, but you can tell which is which by looking at where the wires go in the speaker.) I then soldered to midbass leads to one set of the wires that were packaged with the Alpines.
Then I cut the tweeter leads off the stock speakers. I cut the negative tweeter wire at the prong on the Alpine and soldered the harness negative wire to the tweeter negative wire. Then I cut the capacitor leg that was connected to the positive prong on the Alpine and soldered the positive tweeter harness wire to the capacitor leg.
Then I attached the speaker to the stock baffle and bolted the baffle back into the car.
My car is a 2001 Z28, and it has the Monsoon system in it. The dealership was wanting $75 (!) for a replacement Monsoon speaker. Circuit City had the Alpines for $89.99 a pair, so it was a pretty good deal, even with the extra cost of the 2-year protection plan.
It sounds pretty good. Even with the fader set in the middle, I can still hear the Alpines loud and clear, although the rear deck speakers are more noticable now than they were before.
If you have a blown door speaker, this is an excellent way to replace them.
Last edited by 105; 09-28-2004 at 11:23 AM.
09-29-2004, 12:04 AM
#137
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I was just searching on circuit citys website for 6.5's and I found these for 79.99 instead of 100.00 for the Alpines... So I was thinkin what about these speakers for the door??? ---->
Polk 6-1/2" Speakers (DB650)
Also are there any other subs then the discontinued RF's and the crappy sounding JL's??? Thanks
Polk 6-1/2" Speakers (DB650)
Also are there any other subs then the discontinued RF's and the crappy sounding JL's??? Thanks
09-29-2004, 12:39 AM
#138
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I know they are crappy brands but Ive found some REALLY cheap new 6.5 inch subs from pyramid...I can get 2 of them for 40 bucks shipped... I know they are a cheap brand but do you think it is worth tryin?
They are the - PYRAMID PW677
What do you think? I can always sell em again...
They are the - PYRAMID PW677
What do you think? I can always sell em again...
10-01-2004, 03:05 PM
#139
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I swapped out my blown door speaker yesterday for the Alpine, but left the other door stock. I faded the music to the front and then switched between left and right to compare the two speakers. The stock speaker is louder and much more clear than the modified Alpine. My friend who specializes in movie sound could pick up the quality difference right away. But I'd rather fix it this way than buying hundreds of dollars worth of stereo equipment I never wanted. BTW, will it hurt anything to have the Alpine speaker on one side and the stocker on the other?
Last edited by WhynotSS; 10-01-2004 at 03:29 PM.
10-02-2004, 09:31 AM
#140
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so is the general feeling about this swap that you cannot turn the stereo up as loud, and that it will generally play quieter?
i like to turn it up sometimes and if its going to sound like crap i'll just get more used monsoon speakers
i like to turn it up sometimes and if its going to sound like crap i'll just get more used monsoon speakers