What sound deadner do you recommend and how much do I order?
#1
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Working on just making the Z as nice as possible so I was looking to install some sound deadener before I did the stereo (I have a VERY loud exhaust).
I want to at least cover everything under the carpet but I'd like to buy enough to do the whole car (door panels, headliner, etc...) so please let me know how much it would take to do the entire car then I'll just not use what I don't do.
I'd like to know what brand is the best price, easiest to install and doesn't smell like tar. Also the best place to buy it... Any recommendations?
I want to at least cover everything under the carpet but I'd like to buy enough to do the whole car (door panels, headliner, etc...) so please let me know how much it would take to do the entire car then I'll just not use what I don't do.
I'd like to know what brand is the best price, easiest to install and doesn't smell like tar. Also the best place to buy it... Any recommendations?
#3
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I've used eDead before and it works great. They have paint on versions too.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=1_24
See this thread... he uses eDead and bought 120 sq ft.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...dead-80-a.html
http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=1_24
See this thread... he uses eDead and bought 120 sq ft.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...dead-80-a.html
#4
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I've used RaamAudio on my beater and my T/A. Very impressive results, and pretty bearable pricing.
http://www.raamaudio.com/
http://www.raamaudio.com/
#6
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I have been using the Stinger Road Kill product more and more lately and actually like it better then the Dynamat stuff.
Probably want to use a bulk kit to do an entire car. Depends on whether your trying to deaden for road noise, loud exhaust, or just making an audio system sound better as to how much you really need.
Probably want to use a bulk kit to do an entire car. Depends on whether your trying to deaden for road noise, loud exhaust, or just making an audio system sound better as to how much you really need.
#7
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I've used dynamat, raamat, and edead, and raamat wins hands down for price, quality, and performance. While dynamat is the most advertised product, the quality is nice, but it's the exact same product as raamat just higher in price. Edead is quite a bit cheaper, but the quality of this stuff is far and in between the quality of raamat, and dynamat. While it might deaden as well, it seems to be quite different in material making it alot harder to work with than raamat, or dynamat. moral of the story, best bang for your buck is raamat. if you're wanting to do the floor, doors, roof, and everything, i don't see you needing any less than 100 sq ft. I've used 135 sq ft in my car, but that includes the hatch, doors, roof, floor, trunk, firewall, sail panels, and multiple layers in some areas. and if you're looking to really quieten the interior down after all the rattles are gone from the deadener, apply some close cell foam (ensolite) over the deaden to improve it even more.
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#8
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The Second Skin Audio deadening sticks better, doesn't melt, it's oderless, and no asphalt! I wish I would have used this the first time around, it would of saved me a chunk of $$$, and time .
Second Skin Audio: Damplifier Pro or Damplifier , Luxury Liner Pro or OverKill Pro.
100-120 sq.ft. w/Damplifier, less w/ Damplifier Pro.
You'll want to use Luxury Liner Pro or OverKill Pro glued to Damplifier Pro or Damplifier in the doors, Sail panels, bottom of rear well, and inside rear Quarter panels, and vertical surfaces in spare tire area, 30-40 sq.ft..
For more noise reduction, spray truck bed liner or undercoating under floor pan and under rear well of car.
pm sent.
Second Skin Audio: Damplifier Pro or Damplifier , Luxury Liner Pro or OverKill Pro.
100-120 sq.ft. w/Damplifier, less w/ Damplifier Pro.
You'll want to use Luxury Liner Pro or OverKill Pro glued to Damplifier Pro or Damplifier in the doors, Sail panels, bottom of rear well, and inside rear Quarter panels, and vertical surfaces in spare tire area, 30-40 sq.ft..
For more noise reduction, spray truck bed liner or undercoating under floor pan and under rear well of car.
pm sent.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 12-04-2010 at 12:35 PM.
#11
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Ive used Fatmatt http://www.fatmat.com/ in the past for a few of my vehicles to include a Chevy 2500 Diesel lifted 4x4 that was loud as hell...It not only quieted everything on the inside (road noise, exhaust noise, etc) but also kept noise from escaping the cab (x2 JL 10w6 subs). There are sound dampeners, sound deadeners and vibration controllers. Nice thing about Fatmats product is they are both a sound deadener and dampener. No nasty smell and easy to work with. They also give you a knife and roller for the installation. They also sell underhood kits designed for extreme heat in case you wanna take it that far. Hope this helps.
Chris
Chris
#14
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I have been using the Stinger Road Kill product more and more lately and actually like it better then the Dynamat stuff.
Probably want to use a bulk kit to do an entire car. Depends on whether your trying to deaden for road noise, loud exhaust, or just making an audio system sound better as to how much you really need.
Probably want to use a bulk kit to do an entire car. Depends on whether your trying to deaden for road noise, loud exhaust, or just making an audio system sound better as to how much you really need.
Do you sell the stuff? If so, I'll just buy from you...
#15
TECH Senior Member
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I have been using the Stinger Road Kill product more and more lately and actually like it better then the Dynamat stuff.
Probably want to use a bulk kit to do an entire car. Depends on whether your trying to deaden for road noise, loud exhaust, or just making an audio system sound better as to how much you really need.
Probably want to use a bulk kit to do an entire car. Depends on whether your trying to deaden for road noise, loud exhaust, or just making an audio system sound better as to how much you really need.
If I have the car apart running wires whats a few more bolts right?
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#16
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Maybe a dumb question, I hope not...
Has anyone tried putting some insulator material on the unfinished side of their T-Top upholstered inserts? Seems like it would be simple and it's the closest area to your ears, not sure how much wind noise is still getting through the glass in the roof, though.
Has anyone tried putting some insulator material on the unfinished side of their T-Top upholstered inserts? Seems like it would be simple and it's the closest area to your ears, not sure how much wind noise is still getting through the glass in the roof, though.