When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2001 Trans Am (Has the pop up headlights of course)
I'm having some funky things happening witoffh my headlights. Sometimes the passenger headlight won't turn on and sometimes it will. Sometimes it won't retract down when I turn the lights and sometimes it will. I don't think it's the actual motor as it doesn't sound bad when it does work. Plus the motor wouldn't explain why the light won't turn on sometimes. The relay is clean and far as I can tell. I'm guessing my issue is wiring connector that's under the bumper on the passenger's side.
-Does anyone know what this wiring connector is called or have a part number for both the male and female sides? Every google search I do brings up the headlight relay connector.
-Would it be half assed to just do spade connectors instead of waiting for the part to come and paying x amount?
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There is no headlight relay in 4th generation f-bodies.
Can you provide more details about the connector you're concerned about? Perhaps a photo or the number of wires and their colors? There are two connectors to the headlight door module (a 4-pin and a 5-pin) which have been known to go bad. They are part numbers 12102776 (4-pin) and 12102775 (5-pin).
Other than the headlight bulb connector, there are no other connectors related to the headlights anywhere in the front lamp harness between the firewall and the lamps. There are the headlight door motor connector, marker light connector, fog light connector, and front turn signal / DRL connector but those are direct plug-ins to the sockets rather than inline connectors so you wouldn't have trouble identifying them and there are no separate male and female ends. Other connectors in the area would be the horns and the windshield washer pump.
There is no headlight relay in 4th generation f-bodies.
Can you provide more details about the connector you're concerned about? Perhaps a photo or the number of wires and their colors? There are two connectors to the headlight door module (a 4-pin and a 5-pin) which have been known to go bad. They are part numbers 12102776 (4-pin) and 12102775 (5-pin).
Other than the headlight bulb connector, there are no other connectors related to the headlights anywhere in the front lamp harness between the firewall and the lamps. There are the headlight door motor connector, marker light connector, fog light connector, and front turn signal / DRL connector but those are direct plug-ins to the sockets rather than inline connectors so you wouldn't have trouble identifying them and there are no separate male and female ends. Other connectors in the area would be the horns and the windshield washer pump.
I was thinking this harness under the headlamp may be the culprit?
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
That connector would certainly have wires corresponding to the issues you're experiencing (intermittent light and motor operation) but it looks quite clean and solid. I wouldn't plan on replacing it until you open it up and see if there's any corrosion on the contacts inside. It might just need some cleanup and some dielectric grease.
If you determine that it needs to be replaced, you should get proper waterproof connectors if you can't find the OEM piece. Spade connectors would not be a good choice. You can get kits of waterproof connectors which look very similar to the factory design for $20 or less online.
This sounds like a cold solder joint problem on the headlight control module. The next time this happens, try opening the hood and then letting it shut hard. A lot of times, that's enough to cause the broken contacts to connect. If the light turns on as it should when you shut the hood or tap the module, then you have the cold solder issue.
This sounds like a cold solder joint problem on the headlight control module. The next time this happens, try opening the hood and then letting it shut hard. A lot of times, that's enough to cause the broken contacts to connect. If the light turns on as it should when you shut the hood or tap the module, then you have the cold solder issue.
Very Well Could be! I opened up the control module and while I didn't take a good look at the solders yet....it's got moisture in it...........so I'm letting it dry off. I'll definitely try to reseal it well after it's resoldered. I haven't soldered anything in at least 15 years. Going to hope for the best.
Very Well Could be! I opened up the control module and while I didn't take a good look at the solders yet....it's got moisture in it...........so I'm letting it dry off. I'll definitely try to reseal it well after it's resoldered. I haven't soldered anything in at least 15 years. Going to hope for the best.
You won't be able to see cracks with the naked eye, even unseen in the pictures in my original posts. You need to get a magnifying loupe out or some other device. Even then, they are still pretty hard to find.
So I'm guessing it's just best to resolder even if it looks good?
If you have water inflitration in the unit and are already in there, I would re-solder no matter what. It doesn't hurt anything and even if you don't have the probem now - it's a matter of time until you do. Re-soldering should re-set the "clock" on those joints for you. (worst case)
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Headlight issues 
