White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

All I can say is, HOLY CRAP! I am amazed at how much sound I get out of that sub in the stealth setup. The system hits hard, and the imaging is great with seven speakers running. The box and amprack are from subthump. I was really worried about hitting the t-tops, but the rack holds back the box from getting too close. Also, I used factory wiring wherever possible. All speakers are running on factory wire.

System is:

Head unit: JVC KD-G820
Amp: Power 300 Rockford Fosgate (circa 1989 - old school!)
Doors: 6.5" Sony 4-Ways running of fthe head unit
Sail Panels: 6.5" Sony 4-Ways running off Amp (crossed over @ 100 Hz in Amp)
Hatch mounts: 4" Alpines running off head unit.
Sub: JL 10" W3 Running on bridged rear channel of amp, crossover controlled on head unit.

Thanks for everyone who gave me tips and ideas on this forum for the past couple months while I put this together.

-Geoff

sgt0704

iTrader: (3)

now you need to hide the wires.

imnotplutonium

iTrader: (4)

thats what i was going to say ^^^ a little wire clean up and that will look sweet

sercastiK

iTrader: (11)

that power 300 is old school **** right there, i remember when fakuda had the power 650s in the s10 blazer doing 157.9 back in the day

SSactionLs1

I would amplify the front speakers instead of the sail panels.

todddchi

iTrader: (3)

Sound will be much better amping the fronts, pull the stage up front and give you midbass and stronger treble.

SB and amp look nice, wish that setup worked in verts.

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

Yea, I am pretty lazy.

I thought about doing the doors off the amp. It is pretty easy to swap, so maybe I will switch them around and try it (all the speaker wires come together at the old amp location). Do you get better sound with the door mounts louder? I have an old PPI amp I could put on the doors too. Still debating that one. I guess that would give me an excuse to clean up the wires if I added it.

-Geoff

D10

iTrader: (2)

Just ordered a sb and amp rack. Did you get standard or extended version? Also any tips or things to look out for on the install.

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

It is the standard rack. I was only planning one amp. The installation is simple - you just blow some sheet metal screws through the board into the body. Just make sure your screws aren't too long or you might hit the tail light. The box slid in with just a little trimming. If yo uare worried about throw, you could probably get the thing back another inch or so, but it was good enough for me.

-Geoff

shouldaboughttheZ

iTrader: (8)

I was going to say the samething...lol

Down

iTrader: (16)

Is that the new W3V3? If it is, let me know what you think about it....


-Down

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

I thought he used the Power 1000's in the Blazer? Or was ir 1000's on the subs, and 650's on everything else?

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

Yes, they just cam in at the local stereo shop so I snapped it up. I don't have much to compare it on, but it sounds unbelievably clear for a small sub in a small box. Also, I am running a solid 150 RMS through it and the woofer is barely moving - just what you need when you have limited travel space in a stealth box with the t-tops off.

I love the old school stuff. There is a Power 650 on ebay right now with a chrome cover which includes a blown power 300 with a chrome cover too.

-Geoff