DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I just bought Alterstart's 200A starter and the 4-guage battery cable they say is required. I was just curious as to whether this is required if I'm running an otherwise stock electrical system currently. I'd like to change the alternator to get my car driveable, but I won't be able to replace the cable until the weekend (it isn't a direct bolt-in, and it appears I'll need to be splicing cables.

Am I going to be okay driving for a while on the stock cable or no?

dragonrage

It'll be drivable, just try not to actually pull much more than stock amperage from it without your wiring being up to the job...

By the way, the wire from the alt to the battery must ALWAYS be fused, so make sure your upgraded one will be.

wickedwarlock

iTrader: (4)

Affirmative, you don't want to cause a fire. That alternator will push 100amps at idle, and 90% of it's power at 2000rpms. The stock amp doesn't put out nearly that power. I would do that first before putting on the alternator. If you don't have time, than don't install the alternator, your only asking for trouble.

You don't need to spice anything. The cable goes from the alternator to the battery directly. If you bought the cable from them, it fits perfectly. Make sure you don't over tight the nut on the alternator. 20-25ftlbs is it, otherwise you will snap the bolt in the alternator. ALSO, BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE ALTERNATOR, THERE'S A REMOTE WIRE ON IT TO TELL IT TO TURN ON WHEN THE CAR IS RUNNING. IT'S TINY AND IT WILL BREAK THAN YOU WILL HAVE TO INSTALL ANOTHER. SORRY FOR THE CAPS, IT'S IMPORTANT! BTW, you will love the alternator.

dragonrage

No, it will push UP TO that much power. Just don't go turning on 2000W amps and stuff 'til you upgrade the power and you won't pull that much unless your battery is practically dead.

wickedwarlock

iTrader: (4)

no, that is a high powered alternator, it will push that power at idle to the battery. The alternator is at 90% of it's output at 2500rpms. Your taking a chance, under any load. If you have time to install the alternator, than you have time to install the power wire.

dragonrage

Only if the battery needs the power.

Now not that I'm saying the power wire upgrade should hold off. In fact, it should only take a few extra minutes. But I'm not convinced it will be a problem.

wickedwarlock

iTrader: (4)

a stock alternator is 102a and about 10 amps tops at idle and around 80amps at 6k. Honestly, would you take that chance on an after market alt that's putting up 10x that power at idle and 190 amps at 2500rpms? I don't know about you, like I said, if you have the time to install the alternator, than you might aswell do the power wire the same time.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

dragonrage is correct. If the car's systems only draw 60 amps normally then it doesn't matter if you put in a 5000 amp alternator - there will only be the same 60 amps flowing through the cable. The alternator doesn't push current, it supplies current to meet the demand. You buy a bigger alternator to meet the increased demand caused by a big audio system or to meet the demand at lower RPM than a stock alternator can handle.

If the car's electrical system is completely stock except for the alternator then there is no reason he couldn't safely use the stock cable. The stock cable is sized to handle all the current that a stock system can draw regardless of how much current the alternator is capable of producing.

On the other hand, the cable is so easy to replace that he might as well do it at the same time.

wickedwarlock

iTrader: (4)

I will agree with your statement, except the car draws from the battery, not the alternator. So the alternator cable to the battery will see the output from the alternator requardless of the load. That is why they said to replace the cable from the alternator to the battery.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

No, the car draws directly from the alternator. Both the alternator and the main cable for the car's system are connected to the positive terminal of the battery so the alternator and the battery are wired in parallel as far as the car's electrical system is concerned. In other words, the current doesn't pass through the battery on its way from the alternator to the electrical system.

Besides, unless the battery was really low on charge it wouldn't draw additional current either. The resistance to current flow increases in the battery as it approaches full charge which makes it self-limiting for current draw.

Dal1as

I keep seeing this but when I replaced my wiring doing the big 3 the stock wiring had no fusable links anywhere? What gives? It was definately stock.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

There is no fuse or fusible link in the factory cable between the alternator and the battery. There also isn't a fuse or fusible link between the battery and the starter solenoid or between the battery and the junction box #1 on the left fender well. All fuses and fusible links are downstream from the junction box.

Dal1as

Cool, thanks.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

This morning it appears that the alternator-battery cable is bolted in place on both ends. Originally, when I thought about doing it last night at 8pm, it looked like the connection at the battery was molded into the plastic, but it looks more like just a protective hood around the wires.

I also agree that the alternator won't PUSH current. It would only be a problem if my car was PULLING more current, which it obviously isn't. I just was curious since they said the cable was required for the alternator.

dragonrage

They're assuming that you're going to actually use that current, IE you have a 2000W audio system or something. It makes them less liable by saying that, instead of trying to explain when you need it and when you don't.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

Undestandable. I'll be running a Rockford-Fosgate P2 4/8ohm sub on a crappy old Jensen amp, so the amp won't be pulling too much anyways. I plan to install the alt wire when I run the amp wiring.

Also, I took that red boot off of the battery connector and found the wires all crimped together.

Am I supposed to leave the stock wires running from battery to alternator and battery to junction box, and then add a wire between junction box and alternator? I imagine that will somewhat do the same thing by making the connection to the battery stronger by having both 8awg (appears to be what the stock wires are..maybe 6awg?) essentially connecting the alternator and battery.

If that's not right, I don't see how this cable is supposed to be a bolt-in without cutting or splicing anything.

dragonrage

You can run it to the battery or to the main fusebox, whichever is easier for you. Most people just run it to the battery. Top post battery terminals would be helpful, but you can put a ring terminal on a side-post... They do make side-post terminals where you screw it into the battery and then there's another screw for your wires and stuff, that'd probably be your best bet short of top post.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I like that idea of an extended bolt. I'll have to look into it. Another idea would be something like using a dual-terminal battery. That's actually what I had planned to do for the stereo, just use the top terminal for that, but I could also tap into it for the alternator. Thanks for the ideas.

wickedwarlock

iTrader: (4)

Have you ever taken electronics? DC circuits in particular?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Let's not go there - I'm not going to get into a pissing contest with you. I merely pointed out that some of what you were saying was incorrect or misleading. And yes, I got a degree in electronics so long ago that I've probably forgotten more than you ever learned.