Front Blinkers...
#2
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What exactly is wrong with them? Is it both sides? Do the parking lights work (when the headlights are on)? Do the daytime running lights work?
Depending on those answers there will be different things to check. For example, if the DRLs work but both side turn signals (blinkers... to use your technical term
) don't flash then the flasher under the dash is bad, the turn signal switch is bad, or it could just be a blown fuse. If the lights don't go on despite replacing the bulbs it could be corroded sockets - our cars tend to get a lot of water in those front light housings.
Post the symptoms and we'll help you diagnose the problem.
Depending on those answers there will be different things to check. For example, if the DRLs work but both side turn signals (blinkers... to use your technical term
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Post the symptoms and we'll help you diagnose the problem.
#4
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
What exactly is wrong with them? Is it both sides? Do the parking lights work (when the headlights are on)? Do the daytime running lights work?
Depending on those answers there will be different things to check. For example, if the DRLs work but both side turn signals (blinkers... to use your technical term
) don't flash then the flasher under the dash is bad, the turn signal switch is bad, or it could just be a blown fuse. If the lights don't go on despite replacing the bulbs it could be corroded sockets - our cars tend to get a lot of water in those front light housings.
Post the symptoms and we'll help you diagnose the problem.
Depending on those answers there will be different things to check. For example, if the DRLs work but both side turn signals (blinkers... to use your technical term
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
Post the symptoms and we'll help you diagnose the problem.
There was some crap in there for sure when I pulled the bulb out. Thats why my first instinct was to just get a new housing.
And to be honest... i'm not sure if it's the right bulb. If fit in there no problem and I feel it seat. But it didn't work so I guess I don't know if it's right. Models do match (From Autozone anyway)
#5
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The proper bulb is the 3157NA (or variations like 3157NALL - long life).
If neither the turn signals nor the hazards work then it isn't likely the flasher because the signals use a different flasher than the hazards. It also isn't likely a fuse for the same reason (different fuses). Also, they have separate switches so that won't be it either. Fortunately, that eliminates most of the expensive problems.
The lamp sockets are a good possibility. Try cleaning them and putting some dielectric grease in them to keep out the water. Replace the bulbs again because bad sockets can cause the bulbs to burn out immediately with their first use (so your new bulbs might be burned out already). If the sockets are bad enough that cleaning doesn't work then you can get replacements at your local auto parts store for about $10 each. The housings won't be the problem although you might consider replacing them if they are letting excessive water in.
If neither the turn signals nor the hazards work then it isn't likely the flasher because the signals use a different flasher than the hazards. It also isn't likely a fuse for the same reason (different fuses). Also, they have separate switches so that won't be it either. Fortunately, that eliminates most of the expensive problems.
The lamp sockets are a good possibility. Try cleaning them and putting some dielectric grease in them to keep out the water. Replace the bulbs again because bad sockets can cause the bulbs to burn out immediately with their first use (so your new bulbs might be burned out already). If the sockets are bad enough that cleaning doesn't work then you can get replacements at your local auto parts store for about $10 each. The housings won't be the problem although you might consider replacing them if they are letting excessive water in.
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#8
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Originally Posted by TAJohn
If one bulb is out anywhere none of them work. Check all of your bulbs thats what i had to do.
EDIT: Sorry, I think what you meant was that if a bulb is burned out the other bulbs will go on but not flash.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 04-01-2007 at 04:58 PM.
#9
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Huh??? This is not a Christmas tree. Any bulb can burn out without affecting the others.
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
EDIT: Sorry, I think what you meant was that if a bulb is burned out the other bulbs will go on but not flash.
actually, not true. If the front blinker is out the rear will come on and not flash. if one of the rear is out it will "hyper flash". Kinda built in diagnosis thing so an informed driver will know what lights out without having to leave the drivers seat
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Originally Posted by joe_kool315
If the front blinker is out the rear will come on and not flash. if one of the rear is out it will "hyper flash". Kinda built in diagnosis thing so an informed driver will know what lights out without having to leave the drivers seat ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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#12
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich
But my rear doesn't flash quick... it flashes normal speed. Think I need a new housing?
You must have an electronic flasher installed in place of the factory thermal one. An electronic flasher will flash at the same speed regardless of how many bulbs might be burned out. The problem is most likely going to be the bulbs and/or the sockets - probably both.
However, there are other possibilties. For example, the DRL module could be bad, or it could just be disconnected - some people have unplugged the DRL module trying to disable DRLs without realizing that the turn signals are affected as well. It's possible that the wiring is damaged. It could be a bad ground at the side of the radiator housing. You can test all of these with a test light or multimeter. Check for power on the blue wire at the front sockets. If you've got power then the sockets/bulbs are the problem, if not then the problem is someplace else.
#13
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dont mean to thread jack, but my buddys 98 z left front blinker dont wrok even after replacing the bulb,but all the other lights work and on the dash when u put the left side on it just stays on dont blink.i thought it was the blub and even the fuse but its not any thought? thanks
#16
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This should cover everyone's questions...
If you have a problem with your turn signals, the likely cause will depend on the symptoms:
By far the most common problem is that one side works fine but the other side won't flash (the light just stays on solid). This is caused by one or more bulbs being burned out or a corroded socket on the side that doesn't flash. Turn on your hazard flashers and walk around the car looking for the light that doesn't flash. More often than not, it will be the front because the front housings tend to get lots of water in them. Check and replace the bulb then clean or replace the socket. Put some dielectric grease in the socket before reinstalling to help keep water out. It is not possible for this problem to be caused by the flasher because the same flasher controls both sides (so if one side works then the flasher can't be the problem).
If neither side turn signal works and the back up lights don't work either then the problem is the TURN/BU fuse in the fuse panel on the end of the dash.
If neither side turn signal works but the hazard flashers work then the most likely cause is the turn signal flasher. It is a basic 2-prong flasher available from any auto parts store (or even WalMart) for just a couple of dollars. There are also electronic flashers that will continue to flash even with burned out bulbs for around $8. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is also possible that the switch is the problem but it's not likely.
If neither side turn signal works and the hazard flashers don't work either then the most common cause is the DRL module. It could be burned out or it may have been unplugged either accidentally or in a foolish effort to disable daytime running lights. The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes that is mounted to the duct behind the radio.
These are the most common causes of problems. It's always possible for other things to cause the same symptoms (damaged wires, etc.) but that requires electrical troubleshooting skills to diagnose.
If you have a problem with your turn signals, the likely cause will depend on the symptoms:
By far the most common problem is that one side works fine but the other side won't flash (the light just stays on solid). This is caused by one or more bulbs being burned out or a corroded socket on the side that doesn't flash. Turn on your hazard flashers and walk around the car looking for the light that doesn't flash. More often than not, it will be the front because the front housings tend to get lots of water in them. Check and replace the bulb then clean or replace the socket. Put some dielectric grease in the socket before reinstalling to help keep water out. It is not possible for this problem to be caused by the flasher because the same flasher controls both sides (so if one side works then the flasher can't be the problem).
If neither side turn signal works and the back up lights don't work either then the problem is the TURN/BU fuse in the fuse panel on the end of the dash.
If neither side turn signal works but the hazard flashers work then the most likely cause is the turn signal flasher. It is a basic 2-prong flasher available from any auto parts store (or even WalMart) for just a couple of dollars. There are also electronic flashers that will continue to flash even with burned out bulbs for around $8. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is also possible that the switch is the problem but it's not likely.
If neither side turn signal works and the hazard flashers don't work either then the most common cause is the DRL module. It could be burned out or it may have been unplugged either accidentally or in a foolish effort to disable daytime running lights. The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes that is mounted to the duct behind the radio.
These are the most common causes of problems. It's always possible for other things to cause the same symptoms (damaged wires, etc.) but that requires electrical troubleshooting skills to diagnose.
#17
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
The housing is just a piece of white plastic with a piece of clear plastic attached on the front for a lens - it has nothing to do with whether the lights work.
You must have an electronic flasher installed in place of the factory thermal one. An electronic flasher will flash at the same speed regardless of how many bulbs might be burned out. The problem is most likely going to be the bulbs and/or the sockets - probably both.
However, there are other possibilties. For example, the DRL module could be bad, or it could just be disconnected - some people have unplugged the DRL module trying to disable DRLs without realizing that the turn signals are affected as well. It's possible that the wiring is damaged. It could be a bad ground at the side of the radiator housing. You can test all of these with a test light or multimeter. Check for power on the blue wire at the front sockets. If you've got power then the sockets/bulbs are the problem, if not then the problem is someplace else.
You must have an electronic flasher installed in place of the factory thermal one. An electronic flasher will flash at the same speed regardless of how many bulbs might be burned out. The problem is most likely going to be the bulbs and/or the sockets - probably both.
However, there are other possibilties. For example, the DRL module could be bad, or it could just be disconnected - some people have unplugged the DRL module trying to disable DRLs without realizing that the turn signals are affected as well. It's possible that the wiring is damaged. It could be a bad ground at the side of the radiator housing. You can test all of these with a test light or multimeter. Check for power on the blue wire at the front sockets. If you've got power then the sockets/bulbs are the problem, if not then the problem is someplace else.
#19
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
This should cover everyone's questions...
If you have a problem with your turn signals, the likely cause will depend on the symptoms:
By far the most common problem is that one side works fine but the other side won't flash (the light just stays on solid). This is caused by one or more bulbs being burned out or a corroded socket on the side that doesn't flash. Turn on your hazard flashers and walk around the car looking for the light that doesn't flash. More often than not, it will be the front because the front housings tend to get lots of water in them. Check and replace the bulb then clean or replace the socket. Put some dielectric grease in the socket before reinstalling to help keep water out. It is not possible for this problem to be caused by the flasher because the same flasher controls both sides (so if one side works then the flasher can't be the problem).
If neither side turn signal works and the back up lights don't work either then the problem is the TURN/BU fuse in the fuse panel on the end of the dash.
If neither side turn signal works but the hazard flashers work then the most likely cause is the turn signal flasher. It is a basic 2-prong flasher available from any auto parts store (or even WalMart) for just a couple of dollars. There are also electronic flashers that will continue to flash even with burned out bulbs for around $8. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is also possible that the switch is the problem but it's not likely.
If neither side turn signal works and the hazard flashers don't work either then the most common cause is the DRL module. It could be burned out or it may have been unplugged either accidentally or in a foolish effort to disable daytime running lights. The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes that is mounted to the duct behind the radio.
These are the most common causes of problems. It's always possible for other things to cause the same symptoms (damaged wires, etc.) but that requires electrical troubleshooting skills to diagnose.
If you have a problem with your turn signals, the likely cause will depend on the symptoms:
By far the most common problem is that one side works fine but the other side won't flash (the light just stays on solid). This is caused by one or more bulbs being burned out or a corroded socket on the side that doesn't flash. Turn on your hazard flashers and walk around the car looking for the light that doesn't flash. More often than not, it will be the front because the front housings tend to get lots of water in them. Check and replace the bulb then clean or replace the socket. Put some dielectric grease in the socket before reinstalling to help keep water out. It is not possible for this problem to be caused by the flasher because the same flasher controls both sides (so if one side works then the flasher can't be the problem).
If neither side turn signal works and the back up lights don't work either then the problem is the TURN/BU fuse in the fuse panel on the end of the dash.
If neither side turn signal works but the hazard flashers work then the most likely cause is the turn signal flasher. It is a basic 2-prong flasher available from any auto parts store (or even WalMart) for just a couple of dollars. There are also electronic flashers that will continue to flash even with burned out bulbs for around $8. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is also possible that the switch is the problem but it's not likely.
If neither side turn signal works and the hazard flashers don't work either then the most common cause is the DRL module. It could be burned out or it may have been unplugged either accidentally or in a foolish effort to disable daytime running lights. The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes that is mounted to the duct behind the radio.
These are the most common causes of problems. It's always possible for other things to cause the same symptoms (damaged wires, etc.) but that requires electrical troubleshooting skills to diagnose.
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Last edited by 2tone; 04-07-2007 at 10:24 PM.
#20
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
You might be able to get away with just cleaning it but yes, you can (and probably should) replace it. Ask your local auto parts store for a GM front turn signal "pigtail".