Okay so why would my driver 6.5 Kappa Perfect blow out???
11-08-2007, 02:19 PM
#1
Okay so why would my driver 6.5 Kappa Perfect blow out??? so you experts out there tell me what happened, I'm thinking it's the amp pushing it's limit, but I don't know...
I have the Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 component speakers in the front, the tweets are on the tweeter pods courtesy of Mike @fbodyaudio, thanks Mike!!!
Okay, so, the tweeter/6.5" in the fronts, only the Kappa perfect 6.5" midranges in the sail panel, and an alpine type R 10" sub in the stealthbox, I'm running the alpine 4.150 for the components which run @150w rms, 300w max, as well as the alpine 1.1000 mono amp to push the type R sub which rates the rms btwn 500-1500w rms...
So anyway, I'm running premium wires all around this setup, 4ga. for the power, I forget what gauge for the speaker wires but I spent no expense to get the best for my wiring.
I have the 4.150w component amp running @max, have the low frequencies cut out so that it has more midrange stuff via the amp, max volume on the Alpine 9857 tuner is 35, I never take it above 25 so that's a bit over 75% of max volume, the amp does go up to 300wX4 max wattage, the speakers are rated 400w max wats, I thought I would never EVEN be close to blowing my speakers, yet here I am after 6 months of blowing my MIND it sounds great but now the left front mid is fried BIG TIME and I don't know why.
Also the mono 1000w sub amp is set @100% hitting the low stuff, but on the Alpine tuner if I have the volume up anything past 23 I cannot set the subbase via the tuner to anything above 10(max is 15)...If I do the mono amp shuts off.
I also have a 3 farad cap, and the lights are dimming to the beat of the sub, so I figure I will have to get either a new batt or new alt or both but before this I want to do the big 3 just so I have great wiring...Should I use a 2 gauge wire for the big 3?
Your feedback is greatly appreciated!!!
Carlos.
I have the Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 component speakers in the front, the tweets are on the tweeter pods courtesy of Mike @fbodyaudio, thanks Mike!!!
Okay, so, the tweeter/6.5" in the fronts, only the Kappa perfect 6.5" midranges in the sail panel, and an alpine type R 10" sub in the stealthbox, I'm running the alpine 4.150 for the components which run @150w rms, 300w max, as well as the alpine 1.1000 mono amp to push the type R sub which rates the rms btwn 500-1500w rms...
So anyway, I'm running premium wires all around this setup, 4ga. for the power, I forget what gauge for the speaker wires but I spent no expense to get the best for my wiring.
I have the 4.150w component amp running @max, have the low frequencies cut out so that it has more midrange stuff via the amp, max volume on the Alpine 9857 tuner is 35, I never take it above 25 so that's a bit over 75% of max volume, the amp does go up to 300wX4 max wattage, the speakers are rated 400w max wats, I thought I would never EVEN be close to blowing my speakers, yet here I am after 6 months of blowing my MIND it sounds great but now the left front mid is fried BIG TIME and I don't know why.
Also the mono 1000w sub amp is set @100% hitting the low stuff, but on the Alpine tuner if I have the volume up anything past 23 I cannot set the subbase via the tuner to anything above 10(max is 15)...If I do the mono amp shuts off.
I also have a 3 farad cap, and the lights are dimming to the beat of the sub, so I figure I will have to get either a new batt or new alt or both but before this I want to do the big 3 just so I have great wiring...Should I use a 2 gauge wire for the big 3?
Your feedback is greatly appreciated!!!
Carlos.
11-08-2007, 03:53 PM
#2
Sounds to me like you ran the Kappas hard and they blew. You are running your amp maxed out to them...it happens. Not a big fan of Infinity. Sorry.
Your alternator doesn't seem to like the load your giving it with 2 amps over 1000watts through 4ga wire. It may be sufficient though. What gauge wire are you running to your amps. I understand you have 4ga power wire but is it run to a distribution block or what goes to the amps? What ga wire is your ground? That's important as well. This is a perfect example of a cap not doing anything at all. Sell that cap, get your alternator tested to see if it's doing as it should. If not, get a good alternator with at least 160amps or more...in your case maybe 200amps or more. Have your battery tested...if it tests fine then leave it alone. Your battery has nothing to do with your lights dimming as it doesn't run your system with the car running...unless your sitting in a parking lot with the car off and the lights and system on which should kill your battery quick and dim the lights plenty. After you've replaced the alternator and made sure your power and ground wires are sufficient, then I'd do the big three to help the other things you've done run more efficiently. 2awg wire is fine for the big three upgrade although some use 0awg and some use 4awg. Any of them are larger than the factory power and ground so it should help regardless. It will not help a failing alternator though. I'd check the rest of the electrical system before I'd do the big three. Hope this helps.
Your alternator doesn't seem to like the load your giving it with 2 amps over 1000watts through 4ga wire. It may be sufficient though. What gauge wire are you running to your amps. I understand you have 4ga power wire but is it run to a distribution block or what goes to the amps? What ga wire is your ground? That's important as well. This is a perfect example of a cap not doing anything at all. Sell that cap, get your alternator tested to see if it's doing as it should. If not, get a good alternator with at least 160amps or more...in your case maybe 200amps or more. Have your battery tested...if it tests fine then leave it alone. Your battery has nothing to do with your lights dimming as it doesn't run your system with the car running...unless your sitting in a parking lot with the car off and the lights and system on which should kill your battery quick and dim the lights plenty. After you've replaced the alternator and made sure your power and ground wires are sufficient, then I'd do the big three to help the other things you've done run more efficiently. 2awg wire is fine for the big three upgrade although some use 0awg and some use 4awg. Any of them are larger than the factory power and ground so it should help regardless. It will not help a failing alternator though. I'd check the rest of the electrical system before I'd do the big three. Hope this helps.
11-08-2007, 04:03 PM
#3
Thank you so much this does help.
RE: Infinity's, I wanted them and now I would want to get rid of them, but replace them with what? I want something that delivers more midrange, as the infinity's are somewhat flat and I need to run them loud to get the full effect, not an efficient mid-bass speaker I'd say.
The tweeters are GREAT, what 6.5" mid would you replace them with that would match the amps that I have now?
I figure a great all around high-efficiency mid-bass that likes around 150w-200w rms?
RE: Infinity's, I wanted them and now I would want to get rid of them, but replace them with what? I want something that delivers more midrange, as the infinity's are somewhat flat and I need to run them loud to get the full effect, not an efficient mid-bass speaker I'd say.
The tweeters are GREAT, what 6.5" mid would you replace them with that would match the amps that I have now?
I figure a great all around high-efficiency mid-bass that likes around 150w-200w rms?
11-08-2007, 04:10 PM
#4
personally, I think your sub amp gains are too high if it goes into protection mode when you turn it up.
A quick easy way to figure out a goo range for the amp would be to start with it as low as possible. (DISC remote lead to 4 channel so you dont have them blaring). Then turn up your headunit about 85-90% of max volume. Now turn up your sub amp until EIther A. Its its as loud as you wanna get, or B. the amp distorts and shuts down. Then turn it back down a tad. you can do the same for the speakers , but its reccomended that you do each speaker individually.
Your infinity speaker sounds like you either ran them too hard Like Kee audio said...... Or you Put TOO much emphasis on Mid range which will cause the Kappas to burn out prematurely. The Perfects cannot put out Much midbass AT ALL, I reccomend looking through the frequency range and make sure that the kappas dont see frequencies below 125 hz. Even at 125- 400 hz the Infinity Perfects can be harmed if the EQ balance is skewed towards those lower frequencies.
PS: with the perfects, try setting the crossover to -3 db for the tweeters....... otherwise the tweeters are harsh and overpower everything else.
A quick easy way to figure out a goo range for the amp would be to start with it as low as possible. (DISC remote lead to 4 channel so you dont have them blaring). Then turn up your headunit about 85-90% of max volume. Now turn up your sub amp until EIther A. Its its as loud as you wanna get, or B. the amp distorts and shuts down. Then turn it back down a tad. you can do the same for the speakers , but its reccomended that you do each speaker individually.
Your infinity speaker sounds like you either ran them too hard Like Kee audio said...... Or you Put TOO much emphasis on Mid range which will cause the Kappas to burn out prematurely. The Perfects cannot put out Much midbass AT ALL, I reccomend looking through the frequency range and make sure that the kappas dont see frequencies below 125 hz. Even at 125- 400 hz the Infinity Perfects can be harmed if the EQ balance is skewed towards those lower frequencies.
PS: with the perfects, try setting the crossover to -3 db for the tweeters....... otherwise the tweeters are harsh and overpower everything else.
11-08-2007, 04:18 PM
#5
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Diamond Bar, CA
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey folks, great responses.
I'm one of the people who helped Carlos install the system. For power distribution we ran 4ga from the battery to the dist block, then 8ga from the dist block to the amps. 8ga ground wire from the amps to the grounding block then 4ga from the grounding block to the ground.
I'm one of the people who helped Carlos install the system. For power distribution we ran 4ga from the battery to the dist block, then 8ga from the dist block to the amps. 8ga ground wire from the amps to the grounding block then 4ga from the grounding block to the ground.
11-08-2007, 04:20 PM
#6
I just got your message!! Lol!! For that amount of power your looking at CDT M-6's. Here's their specs sheet: http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/m6_spec1.pdf They would deliver exactly what you are talking about as far as bass and power handling which are conservative numbers. I'd have to make a mount for them though as they don't fit in the stock basket because the push terminals stick out and the stock plastic mounting basket tapers in. Same thing happens with the HD's (they share the same cast basket). The holes line up though..lol! I can get you the M-6's for $249.00 with the mounting plates. I'd need a day to make the plates though.
11-08-2007, 04:32 PM
#7
Hey folks, great responses.
I'm one of the people who helped Carlos install the system. For power distribution we ran 4ga from the battery to the dist block, then 8ga from the dist block to the amps. 8ga ground wire from the amps to the grounding block then 4ga from the grounding block to the ground.
I'm one of the people who helped Carlos install the system. For power distribution we ran 4ga from the battery to the dist block, then 8ga from the dist block to the amps. 8ga ground wire from the amps to the grounding block then 4ga from the grounding block to the ground.
Trending Topics
11-08-2007, 05:23 PM
#8
I just got your message!! Lol!! For that amount of power your looking at CDT M-6's. Here's their specs sheet: http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/m6_spec1.pdf They would deliver exactly what you are talking about as far as bass and power handling which are conservative numbers. I'd have to make a mount for them though as they don't fit in the stock basket because the push terminals stick out and the stock plastic mounting basket tapers in. Same thing happens with the HD's (they share the same cast basket). The holes line up though..lol! I can get you the M-6's for $249.00 with the mounting plates. I'd need a day to make the plates though.
The stock baskets are gone now, it's being held by the Infinity bracket and screws and that's it.
11-08-2007, 05:23 PM
#9
Did you ever try running this setup without the cap? Try it and see if that helps your dimming lights...just curious...I know it is supposed to help but see if this improves anything by running the power directly to the dist. block and then to the amps. Also...what did you use for the ground itelf?
Never did.
11-08-2007, 05:27 PM
#10
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Diamond Bar, CA
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you ever try running this setup without the cap? Try it and see if that helps your dimming lights...just curious...I know it is supposed to help but see if this improves anything by running the power directly to the dist. block and then to the amps. Also...what did you use for the ground itelf?
11-08-2007, 06:29 PM
#11
That should be a decent grounding point. I'd try it without the cap and see how it does direct to the amps from the distribution block with the 8ga wire. It's worth a shot.
Since the baskets are gone you should be able to run the M-6 without issue. They aren't that much deeper than the Infinity's.
Since the baskets are gone you should be able to run the M-6 without issue. They aren't that much deeper than the Infinity's.
11-09-2007, 01:30 AM
#12
Your infinity speaker sounds like you either ran them too hard Like Kee audio said...... Or you Put TOO much emphasis on Mid range which will cause the Kappas to burn out prematurely. The Perfects cannot put out Much midbass AT ALL, I reccomend looking through the frequency range and make sure that the kappas dont see frequencies below 125 hz. Even at 125- 400 hz the Infinity Perfects can be harmed if the EQ balance is skewed towards those lower frequencies.
Sometimes, you just get a bad speaker too. You might want to check the inside of your door and see how it looks in there. You could also have a moisture problem.
I think it's a good idea to check the basics out before throwing more hardware at it...
11-09-2007, 10:20 AM
#13
hey all, I REALLY appreciate your feedback and opinions.
I figure I'm going to look at the speaker first and see if there's any moisture and go from there.
I will be changing the big three though, that way when I need to replace the batt/alt/both I will have quality wiring for them.
After that then I will bypass the cap and see what happens.
When we installed everything my buddy set the amps up so tha the lows are not coming out of the mids, I will look at it and make sure it's not sending anything below 100Hz.
I figure I'm going to look at the speaker first and see if there's any moisture and go from there.
I will be changing the big three though, that way when I need to replace the batt/alt/both I will have quality wiring for them.
After that then I will bypass the cap and see what happens.
When we installed everything my buddy set the amps up so tha the lows are not coming out of the mids, I will look at it and make sure it's not sending anything below 100Hz.
11-09-2007, 01:00 PM
#15
Hey no way thank YOU for your opinion!
I'm a newbie at this, so I figured I was going to make mistakes.
I won't buy those Infinity's ever again, lesson learned.
dont get me wrong, they sounded great but only if they were LOUD and I upped the bass level to compensate for the lack of midrange, no wonder they blew!
I'm a newbie at this, so I figured I was going to make mistakes.
I won't buy those Infinity's ever again, lesson learned.
dont get me wrong, they sounded great but only if they were LOUD and I upped the bass level to compensate for the lack of midrange, no wonder they blew!
11-09-2007, 04:27 PM
#16
TECH Addict
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Brunswick, GA
Posts: 2,193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey carlos, i just got some CDT CL-6 replacements from Ian (Kee Audio)...when i get em in you can listen to get a feel for CDTs stuff..they'll be a bit different then the M6s though...and my stereo will sound completely different then yours too! hahahahaha
