Sound deadening under carpet and between firewall/dash
11-06-2010, 02:46 AM
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Sound deadening under carpet and between firewall/dash This might not be appearance, but I know that there are some really smart guys in here who could likely answer this the best. I am finally putting my dash and carpet into my car. I am attempting to do what no one in their right mind should really ever try - move the car a upscale. In doing so, one of the key things is keeping interior sound to a minimum. I will spend plenty on the sides and doors in order to get those right.
However...
Would I benefit from laying Dynamat-type material UNDER the carpet and tucked between the dash and firewall? I originally purchased this from Afterthoughts Auto for the carpet/dash insulation. Now I find myself seeking advice as to whether or not it is sufficient or or not to deaden sound in these areas. If it matters, the carpet is band new with the extra padding.
Anyone with experience? Thanks in advance...
Oh, and sorry for the long winded post, ummm...
... 
However...
Would I benefit from laying Dynamat-type material UNDER the carpet and tucked between the dash and firewall? I originally purchased this from Afterthoughts Auto for the carpet/dash insulation. Now I find myself seeking advice as to whether or not it is sufficient or or not to deaden sound in these areas. If it matters, the carpet is band new with the extra padding.
Anyone with experience? Thanks in advance...
Oh, and sorry for the long winded post, ummm...
... 
11-06-2010, 11:18 AM
#2
I have not done this on an f-car yet . I can say from expirience on a 2000 civic . Removing all the factory sound deadening mats and such and dynomating the entire inside of the car , firewall , doors even inside them , sides , entire floorpan and trans tunnel had a profound effect . The car feels like a vault and roadnoise and the buzzy sound and feeling of the turbocharged 4 banger is reduced ALOT . And really for minimal weight increase . If I remember right it was in the neighborhood of 56 lbs . But that doesnt account for the loss of the factory deadening materials . Factory Juke padding and foam backed rubber matting typically used on the firewall is heavy .
11-06-2010, 02:34 PM
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What no-one in their right mind would try? I did this like 5yrs ago gutted the car to the sheet metal completely....I put 250sq ft of Sound Insulation and spray in in tight areas......
Take your time, it'll be worth it, PREP is the key
Take your time, it'll be worth it, PREP is the key
11-06-2010, 05:44 PM
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Thats the direction I am heading. The car is completely gutted as it sits (not even a steering wheel - changing over to a Camaro wheel), so the gutting isn't an issue! I really want to step the interior of this car up. Its got the power to overcome a little extra weight.
11-06-2010, 07:49 PM
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yeah my only BIG experience with heavy sound deadening in an f body (currently just have spots of deadener and the doors done) was my good friend Brets camaro. Both he and the car have passed on, but I was able to find a thread from WAAAY back.
He had 6000 watts rms in this car and was UNRELENTING in making sure it was air tight. With the windows down 5 ft away it was ridiculous, and once the windows closed it was silent. He used an off brand version of dynamat (cant think of the name, but if you find a few I could verify) and he used the paint on type. Like 3 coats all over the floor and then both the inner/outer doorskins, etc etc etc.. (its an old thread, some pics dont work)
http://caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=214782
The main reason i regret not having done it so far on my TA is the heat from the headers/road.. i think itd be a noticeable difference in many ways
I wish I had cleaned out more than just the best buy I worked at when i quit of their dynamat supply. employee discount ftw!
He had 6000 watts rms in this car and was UNRELENTING in making sure it was air tight. With the windows down 5 ft away it was ridiculous, and once the windows closed it was silent. He used an off brand version of dynamat (cant think of the name, but if you find a few I could verify) and he used the paint on type. Like 3 coats all over the floor and then both the inner/outer doorskins, etc etc etc.. (its an old thread, some pics dont work)
http://caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=214782
The main reason i regret not having done it so far on my TA is the heat from the headers/road.. i think itd be a noticeable difference in many ways
I wish I had cleaned out more than just the best buy I worked at when i quit of their dynamat supply. employee discount ftw!
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11-10-2010, 08:50 AM
#8
This might not be appearance, but I know that there are some really smart guys in here who could likely answer this the best. I am finally putting my dash and carpet into my car. I am attempting to do what no one in their right mind should really ever try - move the car a upscale. In doing so, one of the key things is keeping interior sound to a minimum. I will spend plenty on the sides and doors in order to get those right.
However...
Would I benefit from laying Dynamat-type material UNDER the carpet and tucked between the dash and firewall? I originally purchased this from Afterthoughts Auto for the carpet/dash insulation. Now I find myself seeking advice as to whether or not it is sufficient or or not to deaden sound in these areas. If it matters, the carpet is band new with the extra padding.
Anyone with experience? Thanks in advance...
Oh, and sorry for the long winded post, ummm... ...
However...
Would I benefit from laying Dynamat-type material UNDER the carpet and tucked between the dash and firewall? I originally purchased this from Afterthoughts Auto for the carpet/dash insulation. Now I find myself seeking advice as to whether or not it is sufficient or or not to deaden sound in these areas. If it matters, the carpet is band new with the extra padding.
Anyone with experience? Thanks in advance...
Oh, and sorry for the long winded post, ummm...
...
11-10-2010, 05:04 PM
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It helps a ton. i didnt do it in my Camaro, but i did do it in my ZR2 blazer. one hell of a difference. i would not buy dynamat though, its so expensive. i would check out the brand RAAMAT. thats what i used. they have the thick sheeting of the tar stuff, and the closed cell foam. its cheaper, and works awesome. the guy there is great to deal with, and he can pretty much sell it in the exact quantities you order. im just speaking from experience on this one. just thought i would throw that out there for a fellow member. it is alot of work, but its worth it bro.
11-10-2010, 05:53 PM
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http://stockinteriors.com/
Good website. I don't think they tread on any toes of sponsors on here with what they offer.
I appreciate the RAAMAT suggestion. I am looking into the closed cell foam options as it seems to be the best bet for keeping sound OUT. Thanks!
Let me take this into a slightly different direction... Is it really possible to quiet down a 4th gen? The wind noise is tremendous.
Thoughts???
Good website. I don't think they tread on any toes of sponsors on here with what they offer.
It helps a ton. i didnt do it in my Camaro, but i did do it in my ZR2 blazer. one hell of a difference. i would not buy dynamat though, its so expensive. i would check out the brand RAAMAT. thats what i used. they have the thick sheeting of the tar stuff, and the closed cell foam. its cheaper, and works awesome. the guy there is great to deal with, and he can pretty much sell it in the exact quantities you order. im just speaking from experience on this one. just thought i would throw that out there for a fellow member. it is alot of work, but its worth it bro.
Let me take this into a slightly different direction... Is it really possible to quiet down a 4th gen? The wind noise is tremendous.
Thoughts???
11-10-2010, 08:05 PM
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i think the deadeners can only help. most of the sound is from the doors. do those and the sail panels, especially around the rear wheels, and it will help a ton.
11-11-2010, 11:36 AM
#13
I have been thinking about installing some sound deadening. You said the doors are the best place to lower road noise. Do you install it on the inside of the doors? if so is that difficult? or do you simply install it underneath the door panel?
It seems as if most of the noise would come from the rear trunk area, did you cover all that in sound deadening also?
does the RAAMAT have a side that is sticky, so you simply peel it off and apply it to the sheet metal?
Also is there any other cheaper alternatives out there? i don't want to spend a lot installing this stuff as it seems like 250 ft squared is a lot and would add up fast when a roll is only 62.5 square feet and almost $100! I don't want to spend $400 in deadening products.
It seems as if most of the noise would come from the rear trunk area, did you cover all that in sound deadening also?
does the RAAMAT have a side that is sticky, so you simply peel it off and apply it to the sheet metal?
Also is there any other cheaper alternatives out there? i don't want to spend a lot installing this stuff as it seems like 250 ft squared is a lot and would add up fast when a roll is only 62.5 square feet and almost $100! I don't want to spend $400 in deadening products.
11-11-2010, 12:41 PM
#15
GPR,
You'll want some under the door panels, but you'll want more inside the door on the back side of the outer door skin. No, it's not hard. Once the door panel is off remove the moisture barrier, and speaker, and put the window all the way up. When installing pieces higher up in the door cut the pieces to a 8" x 4" , the largest I went with was 8" x 6". I started from the door crash bar, then worked my way down to the bottom, I'd also recommend gluing some 3/8" closed cell foam ahead of time to at least 3 of the 8" x 6" pieces of sound deadening for the area directly behind the door speaker.
You'll want to do the back area to, but the doors are more important.
Yes,they all do.
RAAMAT, is the most budget friendly product that sticks good, you could buy cheaper product, but most likely you'll have to replace it after a full year because of low heat and cold tolerance.
I'd recommend doing your car in sections, and as money/budget permits. Do the floors first, so you keep your car drivable, then the doors, sailpanels, under headliner, then the rear seatback area on back.
You'll want some under the door panels, but you'll want more inside the door on the back side of the outer door skin. No, it's not hard. Once the door panel is off remove the moisture barrier, and speaker, and put the window all the way up. When installing pieces higher up in the door cut the pieces to a 8" x 4" , the largest I went with was 8" x 6". I started from the door crash bar, then worked my way down to the bottom, I'd also recommend gluing some 3/8" closed cell foam ahead of time to at least 3 of the 8" x 6" pieces of sound deadening for the area directly behind the door speaker.
You'll want to do the back area to, but the doors are more important.
Yes,they all do.
RAAMAT, is the most budget friendly product that sticks good, you could buy cheaper product, but most likely you'll have to replace it after a full year because of low heat and cold tolerance.
I'd recommend doing your car in sections, and as money/budget permits. Do the floors first, so you keep your car drivable, then the doors, sailpanels, under headliner, then the rear seatback area on back.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 11-11-2010 at 04:18 PM.
11-11-2010, 01:31 PM
#16
GPR,
You'll want some under the door panels, but you'll want more inside the door on the back side of the outer door skin. No, it's not hard. Once the door panel is off remove the moisture barrier, and speaker, and put the window all the way up. When installing pieces higher up in the door cut the pieces to a 8" x 4" , the largest I went with was 8" x 6". I started from the door crash bar, then worked my way down to the bottom, I'd also recommend gluing some 3/8" closed cell foam ahead of time to at least 3 of the 8" x 6" pieces of sound deadening for the area directly behind the door speaker.
You'll want to do the back area to, but the door are more important.
Yes,they all do.
RAAMAT, is the most budget friendly product that sticks good, you could buy cheaper product, but most likely you'll have to after a full year because of low heat and cold tolerance.
I'd recommend doing your car in sections, and as money/budget permits. Do the floors first, so you keep your car drivable, then the doors, sailpanels, under headliner, then the rear seatback area on back.
You'll want some under the door panels, but you'll want more inside the door on the back side of the outer door skin. No, it's not hard. Once the door panel is off remove the moisture barrier, and speaker, and put the window all the way up. When installing pieces higher up in the door cut the pieces to a 8" x 4" , the largest I went with was 8" x 6". I started from the door crash bar, then worked my way down to the bottom, I'd also recommend gluing some 3/8" closed cell foam ahead of time to at least 3 of the 8" x 6" pieces of sound deadening for the area directly behind the door speaker.
You'll want to do the back area to, but the door are more important.
Yes,they all do.
RAAMAT, is the most budget friendly product that sticks good, you could buy cheaper product, but most likely you'll have to after a full year because of low heat and cold tolerance.
I'd recommend doing your car in sections, and as money/budget permits. Do the floors first, so you keep your car drivable, then the doors, sailpanels, under headliner, then the rear seatback area on back.
btw, thanks for the help!!!
11-11-2010, 02:52 PM
#17
GPR,
You'll want some under the door panels, but you'll want more inside the door on the back side of the outer door skin. No, it's not hard. Once the door panel is off remove the moisture barrier, and speaker, and put the window all the way up. When installing pieces higher up in the door cut the pieces to a 8" x 4" , the largest I went with was 8" x 6". I started from the door crash bar, then worked my way down to the bottom, I'd also recommend gluing some 3/8" closed cell foam ahead of time to at least 3 of the 8" x 6" pieces of sound deadening for the area directly behind the door speaker.
You'll want to do the back area to, but the door are more important.
Yes,they all do.
RAAMAT, is the most budget friendly product that sticks good, you could buy cheaper product, but most likely you'll have to after a full year because of low heat and cold tolerance.
I'd recommend doing your car in sections, and as money/budget permits. Do the floors first, so you keep your car drivable, then the doors, sailpanels, under headliner, then the rear seatback area on back.
You'll want some under the door panels, but you'll want more inside the door on the back side of the outer door skin. No, it's not hard. Once the door panel is off remove the moisture barrier, and speaker, and put the window all the way up. When installing pieces higher up in the door cut the pieces to a 8" x 4" , the largest I went with was 8" x 6". I started from the door crash bar, then worked my way down to the bottom, I'd also recommend gluing some 3/8" closed cell foam ahead of time to at least 3 of the 8" x 6" pieces of sound deadening for the area directly behind the door speaker.
You'll want to do the back area to, but the door are more important.
Yes,they all do.
RAAMAT, is the most budget friendly product that sticks good, you could buy cheaper product, but most likely you'll have to after a full year because of low heat and cold tolerance.
I'd recommend doing your car in sections, and as money/budget permits. Do the floors first, so you keep your car drivable, then the doors, sailpanels, under headliner, then the rear seatback area on back.
11-11-2010, 05:09 PM
#18
Floor, around 20 sq.ft.
Rear, around 16 sq.ft.
I'm going to say 52 sq.ft. at a minimum! *
This is for a single layer only!
*I'd recommend 2 layers from the driver & front passenger seats forward, and behind the front door speakers.
11-11-2010, 08:22 PM
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I've spent way too much time over the last several days looking into sound deadening. My goal is to make it as quiet as a good luxury car if not better. I think it would be great to have a cutout mounted after the axle and not be able to tell if it is open. While I realize that is a stretch it does give you an idea of the direction I am going.
In my research, I found a few helpful websites. One does sell product, but they offer a ton of information.
Interesting Article
Good info on the many different types of deadening, their effectiveness, and their uses
For what it is worth, I have decided on Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro. It is expensive, but in order to accomplish the proper deadening for my goals, it is worth the cost for me. Not to mention that my dash and carpet are already out, so I have a pretty easy starting point.
