Anybody with 3000 stalls?
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Anybody with 3000 stalls?
I was wondering how anybody on here like's their 2800-3200 stalls and which gas milage were you getting before and after (50% hwy/50% city). I was looking at TCI and YANK but would like to know which company you guys would prefer if its between those or another.
I first was considering only a 2500 stall just to get rid of the drivability problems with the TR224 on the stock converter and 2.73s but don't want to wish I'd have gone bigger in the future but also don't want gas milage in the low 10s. Thanks.
For drivability and gas milage would I be better off with a 2500 stall and 3.42s/3.73s or a 3000 stall with 3.23s
I first was considering only a 2500 stall just to get rid of the drivability problems with the TR224 on the stock converter and 2.73s but don't want to wish I'd have gone bigger in the future but also don't want gas milage in the low 10s. Thanks.
For drivability and gas milage would I be better off with a 2500 stall and 3.42s/3.73s or a 3000 stall with 3.23s
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i would go with a higher stall then a 2500 especially with a cammed LS1. something in the 3200+ range. driveability with a cam will be tons better with the higher stall. i have a 2800 with mods in my sig. my gas mileage didnt really get any worse comparing it to the stock converter. 15 city 20 highway.
it comes down to how hard you press the gas pedal when driving
it comes down to how hard you press the gas pedal when driving
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I have a 224 cam and a 3200 stall with 3.73s. Looking back now i would say minimum of 3600. A 3200 is tame yet still helps out. When it boils down to it you mod to go fast, nothing wrong with a nice sized converter to help that out.
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TCI Streetfighter standard series have a very weak lockup
clutch. The 3000 was very efficient and OK for a stock motor
but will fade early on anything that likes to rev. I would go
for something more durable clutch-wise. But I have seen a
few complaints about some of the Yank SS series clutches
too (though not as many). There are many clutch material
systems out there, with tradeoffs. You at least want to ask
the question, re durability / holding torque of the clutch, and
see what comes back. It's the only real "wear part" in the
converter, so if you want a "lifetime" converter you need to
take some care in shopping. People who are always stepping
up a notch, every season, don't need to be so picky.
Under 3000RPM is near pointless.
I like a moderate STR and a stall speed between 3000 and
3500 (had both, somewhere in the middle would be best in
my book). But I value comfort and quiet at light acceleration,
not too hardcore.
clutch. The 3000 was very efficient and OK for a stock motor
but will fade early on anything that likes to rev. I would go
for something more durable clutch-wise. But I have seen a
few complaints about some of the Yank SS series clutches
too (though not as many). There are many clutch material
systems out there, with tradeoffs. You at least want to ask
the question, re durability / holding torque of the clutch, and
see what comes back. It's the only real "wear part" in the
converter, so if you want a "lifetime" converter you need to
take some care in shopping. People who are always stepping
up a notch, every season, don't need to be so picky.
Under 3000RPM is near pointless.
I like a moderate STR and a stall speed between 3000 and
3500 (had both, somewhere in the middle would be best in
my book). But I value comfort and quiet at light acceleration,
not too hardcore.
#6
I have a 3000 stall in my bolt on car it was there when i bout it so i dont know how the gas milage was but now in city i get like 13 but straight hw is around 22-24 and i averge 16-17 but i defintly want a bigger stall im planing on geting a built trans with a 3600. but the 3000 isnt bad at all drives very good and im sure it added a little bunch
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3200 Circle D, 3.73's It's a great combo for street/hwy combo. If you do alot of hwy open road stuff maybe 3.23's. My circle D has a strong lock up clutch, it locks up much strong than stock or the tci I had.
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#10
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something that might be of interest to you. We make 3600's that drive great DD.
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They are on sale right now as well. Call or pm
Greg
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...hanks-fti.html
They are on sale right now as well. Call or pm
Greg
1-866-726-8358
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
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FTI Converter build sheet
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ive got a fuddle 3200 stall with a 2.1 str. i really like the way it drives, but my mileage sucks now. i was getting 22mpg 50/50 hwy/city driving. now im getting like... 16 or 17 mpg and i gotta drive like a total grandma.
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ok, Thanks guys. I'll definately do a 3000-3600 stall now. Probally a circle-D or yank 3000-3200 to try to stay at 19-20mpg. I'm also going to do a Fast 90/90 and possibly a Moser with 3.23s, then if that's not enough (which it never is), 243 LS6 heads, built tranny and American racing headers
*YANK SUPER STOCK 3200 LS1
*YANK STEALTH THRUSTER 3000 4L60E/4L65E LS1
*Vigilante 9.5" Single Disk 3200 Lock-up Torque Converter
*Circle-D Billet Street Series - Stage I 3000-3200
Which of these four are best performance/milage. Not planning on ever going over my money limited 425rwhp,Thanks.
*YANK SUPER STOCK 3200 LS1
*YANK STEALTH THRUSTER 3000 4L60E/4L65E LS1
*Vigilante 9.5" Single Disk 3200 Lock-up Torque Converter
*Circle-D Billet Street Series - Stage I 3000-3200
Which of these four are best performance/milage. Not planning on ever going over my money limited 425rwhp,Thanks.
Last edited by camz28arro; 05-09-2010 at 05:36 PM.
#14
Do not go less than a 3600. The 3200 is fine but you wont know its in there after a week of driving. Lockup verter with at least 3600 and you will love it. Gas mileage is a product of your foot and when she locks up. Tune Tune Tune.