Need advice on Escalade Transmission rebuild
#81
There are two dowels - at 3 and 9 O'Clock. The steel dowels can electrically bond to the aluminum a bit and require some persuasion to release.
I would suggest putting some of the bolts back again with 1/2" play so that the trans doesn't drop. The use some persuasion and twisting at tail housing. You might consider a chisel between the engine block and bell housing right by the dowels.
I would suggest putting some of the bolts back again with 1/2" play so that the trans doesn't drop. The use some persuasion and twisting at tail housing. You might consider a chisel between the engine block and bell housing right by the dowels.
#82
Well I did get the trans droped out. ON MY HAND! The thing sliped off the jack after I had it all the way down. I for the lifed of me dont know how it happened but it did. I had two straps on the unit and it still sliped off. The reason it seemed stuck was that I had overlooked 1 bellhousing bolt at the top where there was a hanger plate bolted on top of it and made it look like the bolt was out of there. A more experienced person would not have made this mistake. Live and learn. These top bellhousing bolts are all but impossible to get to on this Escalade. The ones with studs are especially difficult because they require a deep well socket but the socket I used was just barely short enough to get the job done. Im going to find a slightly shorter on for the install. I had a shorter SK brans 15mm that would have been perfect but it was cracked. Of coarse that was the one I needed. But life is good the thing is out! let the rebuild begin. Hope I dont flub it somewhere along the line. There is so much I do not know. But I have come this far so I will forge ahead.
#83
Moderator
Congrats on getting the trans out! Sorry to hear it fell on your hand.
I was just going to post and ask if you remembered the 12 O'Clock bolt,
which can be difficult to reach in some cars. Glad you figured that out,
but I should have thought of that in my previous post.
I PM'ed you my cell phone number and you are welcome to call. Really!
I probably won't be near a computer much this weekend, but you can call.
(I'm so excited to finally have thick ice at our cottage lake for some
maintenance work with the tractor. Never froze thick enough last year.)
I was just going to post and ask if you remembered the 12 O'Clock bolt,
which can be difficult to reach in some cars. Glad you figured that out,
but I should have thought of that in my previous post.
I PM'ed you my cell phone number and you are welcome to call. Really!
I probably won't be near a computer much this weekend, but you can call.
(I'm so excited to finally have thick ice at our cottage lake for some
maintenance work with the tractor. Never froze thick enough last year.)
#84
Congrats on getting the trans out! Sorry to hear it fell on your hand.
I was just going to post and ask if you remembered the 12 O'Clock bolt,
which can be difficult to reach in some cars. Glad you figured that out,
but I should have thought of that in my previous post.
I PM'ed you my cell phone number and you are welcome to call. Really!
I probably won't be near a computer much this weekend, but you can call.
(I'm so excited to finally have thick ice at our cottage lake for some
maintenance work with the tractor. Never froze thick enough last year.)
I was just going to post and ask if you remembered the 12 O'Clock bolt,
which can be difficult to reach in some cars. Glad you figured that out,
but I should have thought of that in my previous post.
I PM'ed you my cell phone number and you are welcome to call. Really!
I probably won't be near a computer much this weekend, but you can call.
(I'm so excited to finally have thick ice at our cottage lake for some
maintenance work with the tractor. Never froze thick enough last year.)
Fortunately the thing didnt hit my hand with a lot of force and only mashed the pinky a bit but it is sore. I never feel quite right about my auto repairs if I dont have banged up hands from it.
My wife is from Alpena Michigan. We spend every Christmas up there and if we get ice on Fletcher Pond we go Pike hunting. Had a lot of fun fishing on the ice this christmas. Hope your maintenance goes well and you dont break through the ice. Careful!
#85
TECH Senior Member
The 12 o'clock bolt can be reached easier with a long extension and by pulling downwards on the rear of trans (tilting engine on its mounts; undo air cleaner duct first).
#86
Thanks Jo. That 12 o'clock one is hard to get at and I had a too long deep well socket but it did sneak onto the head enough to break it loose. It seems impossible when you first look at it. My first thought was " How in the Heck am I gonna get at that?"The ones to either side of that one were my hardest to get at though.
#87
ok the first thing I did was strip one of the bellhousing bolts. If I had no bad luck then.... Be that as it may, Where do I go from here? Do i drill it and easy out the remains? Can the pump come out without removing the extension housing? I guess more importantly can the pump be installed with it not removed without destroying the pump seals? Thanks for any schooling you might offer. I am using a TP-50 bit.
#89
ok all but 2 are out. those are mangled beyond aqll belief! lol Any suggestrions? I am reluctant to cut a slot in the head. I would lean more towards squaring it off and fit a wrench or channel locks or something like that to break it, or drill it and easy out it. The heat helps but it is still very hard to break.
#90
Moderator
Sorry for the slow reply; I was expecting you to call.
Guess you will have to drill them out. Use DeWalt "Cobol" drill bits with "Magic" cutting fluid.
I had no idea these could be so hard to remove; I've never had trouble with my 600 ft/lb air impact wrench and putting a lot of weight into it before I hit the trigger. In the future I will tell people that hand tools just don't make it.
Guess you will have to drill them out. Use DeWalt "Cobol" drill bits with "Magic" cutting fluid.
I had no idea these could be so hard to remove; I've never had trouble with my 600 ft/lb air impact wrench and putting a lot of weight into it before I hit the trigger. In the future I will tell people that hand tools just don't make it.
#91
Sorry for the slow reply; I was expecting you to call.
Guess you will have to drill them out. Use DeWalt "Cobol" drill bits with "Magic" cutting fluid.
I had no idea these could be so hard to remove; I've never had trouble with my 600 ft/lb air impact wrench and putting a lot of weight into it before I hit the trigger. In the future I will tell people that hand tools just don't make it.
Guess you will have to drill them out. Use DeWalt "Cobol" drill bits with "Magic" cutting fluid.
I had no idea these could be so hard to remove; I've never had trouble with my 600 ft/lb air impact wrench and putting a lot of weight into it before I hit the trigger. In the future I will tell people that hand tools just don't make it.
#92
You are using a "torx plus 50" correct? I keep 4 of those bits in my toolbox at all times as those bolts can be a huge pain to get out (as you have noticed). I usually hit all of them with an air hammer before I even try to get them out so that that impact from the air hammer breaks them loose. I have had to use heat, lots of air hammering and sometimes even my big 1/2" impact (thats why I have 4 bits, the 1/2" gun is kinda hard on em). At the point you are at I would just drill the heads off and make it so the bell housing is out of the way then you can grab them with a pliers, channel lock, vice slips etc.. If you still cant get them out set some 1/2" nuts over the studs and mig weld them on(good and hot the heat will help a lot) Then you can use a wrench and they will come right out.
#93
You are using a "torx plus 50" correct? I keep 4 of those bits in my toolbox at all times as those bolts can be a huge pain to get out (as you have noticed). I usually hit all of them with an air hammer before I even try to get them out so that that impact from the air hammer breaks them loose. I have had to use heat, lots of air hammering and sometimes even my big 1/2" impact (thats why I have 4 bits, the 1/2" gun is kinda hard on em). At the point you are at I would just drill the heads off and make it so the bell housing is out of the way then you can grab them with a pliers, channel lock, vice slips etc.. If you still cant get them out set some 1/2" nuts over the studs and mig weld them on(good and hot the heat will help a lot) Then you can use a wrench and they will come right out.
#95
Well I have it all taken apart down to the spring assembly, low and reverse clutch(694),piston(695) and seals (696). Im going to get those out next but I must say that I see nothing jumping out at me as the failure point I am looking for. The unit has been leaking fluid and I do think it is from the rear. Could those seals that I have yet to lay my eyes on be the culpret? Or should I be pointed somewhere else?
#96
Moderator
I should have suggested that you do an air test of just the pump, input drum and reverse drum; before you disassembled the reverse clutch. Or perhaps you still can.
Place the reverse drum on the input shaft/drum assembly, add the pump on top and flip the entire assembly upside down for some test, while supporting the pump. (I use a really thick and stiff 8" by 8" by 8" cardboard box to support the pump.) See my earlier post #37. IIRC the leftmost hole (not bolt hole) is the reverse feed hole. This will test the teflon rings and the reverse piston.
Hmmm, guess you need an air compressor for this too.
Are you sure the teflon rings on the stator shaft are good? Post a picture?
Place the reverse drum on the input shaft/drum assembly, add the pump on top and flip the entire assembly upside down for some test, while supporting the pump. (I use a really thick and stiff 8" by 8" by 8" cardboard box to support the pump.) See my earlier post #37. IIRC the leftmost hole (not bolt hole) is the reverse feed hole. This will test the teflon rings and the reverse piston.
Hmmm, guess you need an air compressor for this too.
Are you sure the teflon rings on the stator shaft are good? Post a picture?
#97
I should have suggested that you do an air test of just the pump, input drum and reverse drum; before you disassembled the reverse clutch. Or perhaps you still can.
Place the reverse drum on the input shaft/drum assembly, add the pump on top and flip the entire assembly upside down for some test, while supporting the pump. (I use a really thick and stiff 8" by 8" by 8" cardboard box to support the pump.) See my earlier post #37. IIRC the leftmost hole (not bolt hole) is the reverse feed hole. This will test the teflon rings and the reverse piston.
Hmmm, guess you need an air compressor for this too.
Are you sure the teflon rings on the stator shaft are good? Post a picture?
Place the reverse drum on the input shaft/drum assembly, add the pump on top and flip the entire assembly upside down for some test, while supporting the pump. (I use a really thick and stiff 8" by 8" by 8" cardboard box to support the pump.) See my earlier post #37. IIRC the leftmost hole (not bolt hole) is the reverse feed hole. This will test the teflon rings and the reverse piston.
Hmmm, guess you need an air compressor for this too.
Are you sure the teflon rings on the stator shaft are good? Post a picture?
I did compare the new sun shell with the old and it has not been updated so the new beast was a good purchase. Even though the old shell seems fine and did not display any signs of failure.
Last edited by fishcrazy; 01-28-2013 at 05:36 PM.
#99
Moderator
Wow that is really bad. You will need a new stator shaft too as the bushing is scored.
You will need to take your pump to a trans shop to have a new stator shaft pressed in; it is even tricky for them to do with a press. A generic stator shaft is about $30 wholesale. Sonnax makes an improved one for about $40; I would recommend it becomes it is a bit more forgiving in the alignment process. (The pump has a dowel and the stator shaft has a hole for it; if it is slightly misaligned during the pressing process, a tiny bit of metal is stripped off the dowel and lodges underneath the shaft, making it non-square and causing rapid wear of the input shaft bushing.) The Sonnax stator shaft you need is #74529H and available overnight from TranStar to any trans shop.
And yes, this is why you lost reverse.
You will need to take your pump to a trans shop to have a new stator shaft pressed in; it is even tricky for them to do with a press. A generic stator shaft is about $30 wholesale. Sonnax makes an improved one for about $40; I would recommend it becomes it is a bit more forgiving in the alignment process. (The pump has a dowel and the stator shaft has a hole for it; if it is slightly misaligned during the pressing process, a tiny bit of metal is stripped off the dowel and lodges underneath the shaft, making it non-square and causing rapid wear of the input shaft bushing.) The Sonnax stator shaft you need is #74529H and available overnight from TranStar to any trans shop.
And yes, this is why you lost reverse.
#100
Wow that is really bad. You will need a new stator shaft too as the bushing is scored.
You will need to take your pump to a trans shop to have a new stator shaft pressed in; it is even tricky for them to do with a press. A generic stator shaft is about $30 wholesale. Sonnax makes an improved one for about $40; I would recommend it becomes it is a bit more forgiving in the alignment process. (The pump has a dowel and the stator shaft has a hole for it; if it is slightly misaligned during the pressing process, a tiny bit of metal is stripped off the dowel and lodges underneath the shaft, making it non-square and causing rapid wear of the input shaft bushing.) The Sonnax stator shaft you need is #74529H and available overnight from TranStar to any trans shop.
And yes, this is why you lost reverse.
You will need to take your pump to a trans shop to have a new stator shaft pressed in; it is even tricky for them to do with a press. A generic stator shaft is about $30 wholesale. Sonnax makes an improved one for about $40; I would recommend it becomes it is a bit more forgiving in the alignment process. (The pump has a dowel and the stator shaft has a hole for it; if it is slightly misaligned during the pressing process, a tiny bit of metal is stripped off the dowel and lodges underneath the shaft, making it non-square and causing rapid wear of the input shaft bushing.) The Sonnax stator shaft you need is #74529H and available overnight from TranStar to any trans shop.
And yes, this is why you lost reverse.