Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

Ok this is for a 4l60e. I'm trying to figure out why the converter isn't locking and know it is either the converter or something in the valve body. My question is what is the best way to diagnose this? I have commanded the TCC on with the engine off and I can hear the solenoid click, I then started it and commanded the TCC on with it in drive and my foot on the brake and there was no change in RPM. So i'm not sure if i'm looking at a valve body problem or torque converter problem.

Also the problem started with the TCC locking intermittently and then it kept not locking more than locking and one day it just stoped locking all together. The torque converter is a TCI street fighter with the 12" lockup and 10" front half.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

How are you commanding it to lock up with the engine off? Are there any codes being thrown? Only way I would know of is to try a different converter that is known to lock up. If it locks up, it is a converter problem. If no lock up, it is a valve body problem.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Just as an experiment, try setting all of your misfire RPM
and cylinder mode tables to 32767 and see if it comes back.
If so it's real or false misfires (false likely being some driveline
vibration). You can command lockup by grounding the TCC
solenoid at the connector too regardless of the PCM's
opinion. But I don't know what to do to the TCC PWM line
to get full pressure; if that valve is blowing off (zero current
or zero commanded duty) then the TCC valve has nothing
to work with. BAT or GND ought to fully energize the PWM
valve, have to go find out which. But that doesn't mean
it couldn't be messed up and just starving it, electricals
ignored.

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

Ya I had already changed the tables and still no lockup.. What would be the best way to diagnose the valve body?

As for how I commanded it on, I did it with a tech2.

TSBKID

iTrader: (5)

Just had my tranny built. My converter is a lock up but doesnt lock up for crap. Shifts arent even right taking back tomarrow.Guy said he will change valve body and stuff. Hope he fixes it quick. So I can drive my car!

FLT

iTrader: (1)

I would almost bet it's your tci tc. What I would do is remove the LU valve in the pump. Be careful not to flip it. Remove the springs. Then install the valve first and then the springs along with the washer and snap ring. This is the position in which the valve will have to lock up the tc. If it doesn't you will now have your answer! This is something that should be performed with the wheels in the air. When you put it into gear if the lock up is good it should kill the motor. Good luck Vince.

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

I will have to try that out and go from there... The part I circled in the pic bellow is where the lockup valve is correct?

FLT

iTrader: (1)

No one hole to the right. It will be the one under the solenoid.

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

Ah ok.. One more question. I don't have the lockup valve that is supposed to get rid of PWM.. Do you think that could be causing it to not lock? I'm just thinking about it and it's seeming like it has got to be the converter. I'm thinking I might be better off just droppin the trans and changing the converter, but at the same time I will be pissed if I put the stock converter in to find it wasn't the problem.

Also I have another problem that may actually play a part in all this. I have read that if the TCC valve is missed up it could reduce the fluid flow to the torque converter. I also have another problem, the majority of the time if I punch it or get on the throttle pretty good the rpm's will just jump up (to about 5k) and the car doesn't really move and then all the sudden it will engage and the rpm's will drop down (to about 4000) and it will take off. I can get it to do this in any gear including first. It's hard to explain but it's something slipping but it doesn't feel like clutches slipping. It feels just like the low rpm range of a high stall how you don't really feel much until you increase rpm, except what i'm feeling isn't the converter flashing. If I could relate it to something it would probably feel the same as having a 6k rpm stall converter

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

ok unless im missing something , first the tcc will not lock in first gear period . it can only allow lockup period after the 2nd gear shift occurs , second tcc is disabled when the brake is applied , The disallowance of lock up in first is mechanical not pcm though the solinoid may click it will not lock up setting still with the brake applied ,
www.performabuilttransmissions.com

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

With the tech 2 you can pretty much overide the PCM. I have locked it with my foot on the brake in 1st via the tech 2 and it killed the engine. That was with the old converter in the same vehicle. Now when I try this nothing happens and there is no change in engine rpm and with the engine off I can hear the solenoid clicking, which would mean the solenoid is functional.

I also just scanned for codes and got P0752 which is 1-2 shift solenoid performance.. This code is recent and I have never got it before.

Looks like I have a bunch of problems ... Hopefully someone can help me on where to start.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

That code means the pms (presure manifold sensor )didnt get the fliud signal from the solinoid it should have , But since you have been messing with the program I would clear the code , And check it again , The best way to check lockup is cruising under light throttle at about 55 then try turning it off and on your should see aprox a 200 to 400 rpm change .
www.performabuilttransmissions.com

FLT

iTrader: (1)

I think you did miss something here. You might have been thinking of the LU operation of a 700r4 not the 4l60e. I never really tried it on the the dyno but it will lock in first gear confirmed today. Also I believe that you might be thinking of 700r4 because it uses second gear signal oil. Or at least that is what it says in my hydro-matic book for the 700r4 transmission. The 4l60e hydromatic book shows oil on the lock up solenoid in all forward ranges on a 4l60e. Just a little FYI! As far as the break switch is concerned the way I told Stroker 1500 to perform the lock up test the electronic's will have no bearing. By placing the lu valve in a stroked position in a 700 or a 4l60e it is mechanically forcing the tc to exhaust it's release oil causing the tcc to apply. If the tcc is good it should try kill the motor with your foot on the breaks. PERIOD.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

As I was at the shop today I took some pictures. This first picture shows you the bore where the LU solenoid is located on the left.

The next picture is the order in which the valve, 2 springs and snap ring come out of the pump in order.

This next picture is how I told you to install the valves back into the pump to mechanically lu the tc.

Notice on the valve that the ends are two different sizes. The fatter end always faces the snap ring. There is another way to do this on a 4l60e. You could remove the lock up solenoid and install a check ball in the snout of it and reinstall it. This should force the valve to stroke when you put the trans in gear and also apply the tcc. You will need to remove the tcc solenoid screen as illustrated in the picture.

fastvette123

I'VE HAD 2 TCI CONVERTERS GO BAD IN ONE YEAR. BOTH WITH THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAVE. I'M WILLING TO BET ITS THE CONVERTER ITSELF FAILING LIKE MINE.
I STILL HAVE NOT BEEN REINBURSTED FROM TCI YET...... THEY LOST MY FIRST CONVERTER I SENT BACK TO THEM !!

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

Awesome thanks so much for all the help

Ya I keep reading posts like this and I think I may just drop the trans and put the stock one back in. I have a feeling it's going to be the converter even though I really don't want it to be. I'm really kicking myself for choosing the TCI over the other one's I was looking at.