BIG PD

Disclaimer: i am not stating that this convertor destroyed my transmission...it is simply a question, i'm not trying to make them look bad, the convertor is awesome when the tranny works. thanks.

i have a cam only car...making maybe around 375 rwhp...not much power. i also have Yank ST3500. i blew my stock tranny about a month after i installed this converter. then i ordered an (unbreakable) one from a company called century racing in texas. it cost me 3 grand and now 8 months later it is trashed. i have not raced or been to the trach all season. its snowed and rained so i've maybe put 5000 miles on this tranny. is there any possible way that the torque converter did this? i called yank and they swear there is now way and other companies have said different. i just don't know who to listen too and i'm only 18 and i've basically spent my life saving on this ******* car and now it doesn't even work and yank or century racing won't do **** about it, so i'm sol till i save up 2 more grand with my 6 dollar an hour job unless i can find proof that the torque converter did it...lol kinda crummy thing to do but i need my car back. thanks

42NightZ28

what color is your trans fluid? If its A very darf red or black then you might have cooked the trans. (this happed to me) Also what type of fluid where you using?

BIG PD

yah its black...i have a tranny cooler and it was fully synthetic oil. i know the tranny is gone i'm not even worried about that. i'm just curious if it cause of this damn converter.

sited12

Did the tranny just neutral out? Or did you achually burn it and screw up everything. If it just neutralled out except for park then its probably just the pump.

BIG PD

no 3rd and 4th are gone...nuetral park reverse first and second work fine. if i put it in 3rd it just revs up to the limiter...if i put it in 4th it will catch at 3500rpm and pull (same as my converter stall...funny huh?) top speed is only like 85 with 2.73 gears at 6600rpm. its fried...

kp

iTrader: (34)

Did you flush the converter after the first trans let go? Bad programming? Bad rebuild? Could be a bad converter.. Of course yank is going to tell you it isnt their fault, the trans rebuilder is going to tell you it isnt their fault and so on..

Didnt you get any kind of warranty for 3 grand? They should at least take a look at the everything (including the converter) to see what failed for that kind of money. If they say its the converter that killed the trans then you have something to argue with, if the converter didnt kill it they should at least be able to tell you what did..

BIG PD

yah i sent the converter back to yank the first time it went to be looked at, they said it was fine. the programming for the new tranny was done by MTI, so...line pressure was like 58psi at idle. the warranty on the new trans was for 6 months...that was back in july so its been about 10 months. i'm dropping the tranny right now and sending it back to century to see what shelled on it. i think i may have found the problem but i'm not sure. on the accumulator spring cover, out of the three bolts holding it on...one was snapped and doing nothing. i'm surprised it didn't fall down into the pan. so 1 side was leaning down letting all the pressure out of it causing it to shift incorrectly. that's my thought on what i've seen so far. but i'll let ya'll know in the next couple days.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I am only asking, But are you suppose to run
fully synthetic oil with that yank ?

42NightZ28

Mike at Yank recommended Amzoil power shift Synthetic oil by name so i am sure that syn fluid shouldn't hurt anything.

02 SOM WS6

Back in 1999, Mike at Yank installed one of his converters in my '98 Z28. He also dropped the transmission pan and changed filter and fluid. Converter & pan were filled with Mobil 1 synthetic which remained in there unitl car was traded in 40000 miles later. No extra cooler, lots of 1/4 mile runs, hot Texas weather, no problems.

Les

BIG PD

well i have a tranny cooler and fully synthetic oil...so it shouldn't have overheated.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Well, I think you just have to look at the STR
to see how much more peak torque you're putting
up against stock clutch packs. Heat input goes
way up once you overrun the clutches' holding
torque (clutches make zero heat except when they
slip). Or, in the case of hard acceleration, you
are asking a sliding clutch to stop in the face
of that elevated torque (even harder than just
hanging on).

Not to mention that peak torque multiplication
is happening on top of higher-RPM torque values
from the stall speed increase.

blown 346

iTrader: (25)

I bought a Extreme Stage 3 Trans from Speed Inc. and they told me that it was vurtually impossible to break this one. Since i have burned up 5 stockers in the past. Plus I have a hell of a guarantee with it, if it breaks it's replaced no charge. I know that trannys arent cheap and it's a pain in the *** to keep spending unnecessary money.

Raughammer

Dude, i know it sucks, but if you are cleaning that verter out and keeping the tranny temps low when driving...

Your just wearing out the trannies. Sometimes folks get a round of bad luck like that...sorry.

Keep the fluid clean, once it looks dirty of smells burnt change it, i dont care if it is only 5000 miles later. I change mine every 6 months and have never toasted a 4L60E yet.

I seriously doubt it is the verter. When its out see if it spins easily... check the run out on the hub,...if it looks good it prob aint the verter.
Do you know your line pressure? It might be a good idea to check it out. Every car is different...as is every PCM. Check it out and see what they are puttin down as far as data... if torque mgt. is not pumping up the pressure or the PCM is not doing right.. man you could be seeing all of these problems. Give it a once over.

Pump pressure, PCM tranny functions, trannie clutches designed for what your trying to do?, cooler hooked up correctly and keeping temps down...down below 190 or so?, Drive shaft good?...are you sure? Is the vent hose (the metal one) crimped closed?, man i could go on for 10 more minutes... take a step back and look at it.

Good luck and holler at me if i can help with more suggestions.

...again, good luck.

ToplessTexan

Can you elaborate on that comment (TM) a little?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Is torque management involved at all with the
line pressure modulation? Never seen mention
of anything other than engine controls (timing
back-off, and throttle back-off in the drive-by-
wire 'vettes - management in the sense of reducing
output, not increasing transmission "holding power".
What about cars where torque management is deleted?

However load sensing does play into line pressure
PWM, high load should run up the pressure to its hard
maximum but if you have a MAF that's doing mixture-
tricking (like ported ones do, and some aftermarket
ones are reputed to) this can reduce the delivered
line pressure and "feather" your clutches more than
you would want, at high torque levels.