4l60e built for 10.05@133?
#1
4l60e built for 10.05@133?
What 4l60e transmission can handle this for long periods of time?1st built 4l60e lasted a year running 10.60s I added more power within a month It died then built it again and lasted 10 passes.open to suggestions thanks
#4
we have a few of our customers running in the low 11s and 10s and been doing it for a while and with level 2s I would suggest the level 3 for your setup however. we have a few sales going on right now feel free to take a look at our website or give us a call. we also have a few videos of our customers cars take a look at those also
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/image.php...ine=1194732633
Free Cooler, Free shipping always, 2 year warranty Trans/Coverter combos, No Core or Core charge, $150 LS1 core buy back, All trans Dyno Tested to Be sure it works when you get it.Customer videos, Tech Thread, Open 7 Days a Week! Call or http://opi.yahoo.com/online?u=performabuilt&m=g&t=2Click Banner for Website.
Not Just Built.....PerformaBuilt!
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#8
take a look at this thread also
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/885981-down-out-rob-p-built-rescue.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/885981-down-out-rob-p-built-rescue.html
__________________
https://ls1tech.com/forums/image.php...ine=1194732633
Free Cooler, Free shipping always, 2 year warranty Trans/Coverter combos, No Core or Core charge, $150 LS1 core buy back, All trans Dyno Tested to Be sure it works when you get it.Customer videos, Tech Thread, Open 7 Days a Week! Call or http://opi.yahoo.com/online?u=performabuilt&m=g&t=2Click Banner for Website.
Not Just Built.....PerformaBuilt!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/image.php...ine=1194732633
Free Cooler, Free shipping always, 2 year warranty Trans/Coverter combos, No Core or Core charge, $150 LS1 core buy back, All trans Dyno Tested to Be sure it works when you get it.Customer videos, Tech Thread, Open 7 Days a Week! Call or http://opi.yahoo.com/online?u=performabuilt&m=g&t=2Click Banner for Website.
Not Just Built.....PerformaBuilt!
#12
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Rob from Performabuilt built me a rock solid 4l60e, probably equivalent to there lvl 2 but i have the 5 pinion planets. The thing shifts flawless and i'm a little scared to get on it because of my rear, but i'm positive the thing could hold up to my power plus nitrous. Give Performabuilt a shout if you want quality+ A1 customer service.
#13
#16
Carolina Performance Transmission built me a unbelievably rock solid trans that i finally got to make that 2-3 shift... tried many built trans that tried to get that 2-3 shift, but flared at first try... car weights 4100 lbs, and makes 550+rwhp/670+rwhp, i finally got me a trans to put me into the 10's....
#19
Moderator
we have a few of our customers running in the low 11s and 10s and been doing it for a while and with level 2s I would suggest the level 3 for your setup however. we have a few sales going on right now feel free to take a look at our website or give us a call. we also have a few videos of our customers cars take a look at those also
The best I could dyno with my 6-rib was 549 RWHP / 757 RWTQ because of belt slippage at higher RPM's in 3rd gear. Now that I have 8-rib pullies, I feel the HP should match the TQ, and both numbers may even rise.
I have a 422 built by Golden West Performance , bored and stroked from a 6.0L iron block engine, procharger D-1SC running about 12 to 13 PSI, Pro Yank 3400, M/T ET Streets 11.5x16, 12 Bolt Mark Williams 3.73 Rear End, QA1 shocks, standard suspension mods, etc
I get stuff like this happens to me all the time (I run the most expensive tranny fluid) ... busted pump, stripped clutches, broken tail piece, sun shell, etc, etc. I've seen 3rd and 4th gear leave me on the track, and I limped home (or to my trailer now) in 2nd gear. I REALLY don't want to go to a 3 speed tranny like the TH400 or that big, heavy-assed 4L80E. I would LOVE for the 4L60E to work!
If you want to see her run just before I started breaking trannies, here is one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPJWcaGeBnQ
This was before the 422, with the boost backed down to 8 PSI and only holding the car at half throttle in 1st gear. At 10 PSI during that timeframe, she ran 10.98 @ 126 MPH. I should get in the low 10's with this motor, but my drive-train and suspension hasn't been up to the task.
One reason I have been lazy about replacing my oil pump and installing my QA1's, Light-weight crossmember, A-Arms and 15" calipers is, I know when I do all that work, she will be sitting right back in the garage with a broken tranny.
Last edited by Black LS1 T/A; 03-26-2008 at 09:11 AM.
#20
Moderator
I also have a problem ever since I put the 422 in:
1. If I am on the street, stock tires, ET Streets, whatever ... shift points occur as expected.
- (Please keep this item 1. in mind before anyone suggests I need to readjust shift points in my tune.)
2. Go to track: Shifts waaaaaaaAAAAAAYYYY early. 1-2 about 4800 RPMs, 2-3 about 5400 RPMs. That's starting off the line with gear lever in 3rd.
The only way I can change this behavior is to put it in 1st and shift manually, but 60% to 70% of the time, it over-revs and I bang the rev limiter. This is what happend last time at the track when I killed my oil pump.
As you can imagine, if I try to manually shift, it may shift anyhwere.
Look at this Log: (Where I have the lever in 3rd)
http://blackls1ta.com/ShortShift.xls
This was a log at a 1/8 mile track.
00:51.8 - 00:52.3 Notice I am rolling into the pedal. I'd burst into a spin immediately otherwise.
00:52.6 I've rolled to full thruttle here. Notice it shifts, even though my 1-2 shift point is more like 5800 or so. 2-3 is around 6200.
All I was doing was spinnin, really. That helps induce KR for me, too, when it jumps into 2nd and 3rd at such low RPMs.
This is an example of what might happen on the street (again, lever in 3rd), but I am spinning like crazy: (backed off of it when I went into 3rd)
http://www.blackls1ta.com/SampleXLS_EFILog.htm
Here is when I ran 10.84 at 125 at the track in automatic:
http://www.blackls1ta.com/FayDrag1.mht
I shifted manually, early, wondering if just manually shifting it may make it get past a certain point, to shift closer to edited shift points.
Here I shifted later, but the first run was a quicker time:
http://www.blackls1ta.com/FayDrag3.mht
1. If I am on the street, stock tires, ET Streets, whatever ... shift points occur as expected.
- (Please keep this item 1. in mind before anyone suggests I need to readjust shift points in my tune.)
2. Go to track: Shifts waaaaaaaAAAAAAYYYY early. 1-2 about 4800 RPMs, 2-3 about 5400 RPMs. That's starting off the line with gear lever in 3rd.
The only way I can change this behavior is to put it in 1st and shift manually, but 60% to 70% of the time, it over-revs and I bang the rev limiter. This is what happend last time at the track when I killed my oil pump.
As you can imagine, if I try to manually shift, it may shift anyhwere.
Look at this Log: (Where I have the lever in 3rd)
http://blackls1ta.com/ShortShift.xls
This was a log at a 1/8 mile track.
00:51.8 - 00:52.3 Notice I am rolling into the pedal. I'd burst into a spin immediately otherwise.
00:52.6 I've rolled to full thruttle here. Notice it shifts, even though my 1-2 shift point is more like 5800 or so. 2-3 is around 6200.
All I was doing was spinnin, really. That helps induce KR for me, too, when it jumps into 2nd and 3rd at such low RPMs.
This is an example of what might happen on the street (again, lever in 3rd), but I am spinning like crazy: (backed off of it when I went into 3rd)
http://www.blackls1ta.com/SampleXLS_EFILog.htm
Here is when I ran 10.84 at 125 at the track in automatic:
http://www.blackls1ta.com/FayDrag1.mht
I shifted manually, early, wondering if just manually shifting it may make it get past a certain point, to shift closer to edited shift points.
Here I shifted later, but the first run was a quicker time:
http://www.blackls1ta.com/FayDrag3.mht