And where is the price list for my set??

 

Lol, I have 200$ in this setup.

 

The way the bars are set, with the back "up" should make for a light hit on the tires. What did you weld the front bracket to? It will have to take a he!! of a lot of pressure! LOL. As long as the metal you mounted it to is strong, they should work very well. From what Ive been studying , the lower the back/higher the front, the harder the hit on the tires and visa versa .
Im bailing on the construction thing. Without a welder its not worth it. Im working with a guy on a deal for a set of Slide-a-Links now. Zane, the gorilla weld bars look good . Be sure to shoot a vid of them in action!

 

We will see what happens. Been in the staging lane for a hour now. The track crew has pissed me off tonight.

 

The front mounts are welded to the bottom of the bracket where the front of the leaf spring bolts to its perch. I personally would want them a bit longer to reach the frame rail just past there. maybe 6-9 inches past.

Don't have a hissy about the track crew, and you didn't call Stu to tell him you were going...

 

Stewart and I are members if another forum where he knew I was going to the track, so if he forgot, that's on him.

Do yours how you want, it's your truck. I made my as a solution to eliminate wheel hop and it is working the way I wanted.

 

I know about the other forum, remember?? I am a member there as well?

And I only said something because he texted me a reply back about the voltages for his S-10. He said you hadn't called him.

And yes, I know its personal opinion on the mounting points. I was merely stating that I would have made them a bit longer. Nothing bad about yours intended.

Did you get a chance for a time yet? how did it do?

 

Ed, I'm pretty pissed. Sorry. Made one pass and loaded it up because every moron and their mom showed up at the track. I got skipped getting in and then skipped in line when I was number 5 in my lane. Was there 2 hours to make one pass and I spun to a 2.3 60 foot and went 8.9 at 84 mph.

So, maybe next time. I'm not happy I busted *** to finish the ghettotracs just to waste my damn night because people are morons.

 

yikes... the 60 ft sucked but the 8.9 with a 4.8 is decent. yeah it has a lot more in it knowing your builds, but at least it didn't wheel hop and break the traction bar setup...

All in time. You will have plenty more chances during the summer to get it into the 7's knowing you. I would be thrilled if my S-10 belted an 8.9 on motor..

 

As much as I spun and got out and back into it, I was sure it would lay a 9. I was shifting it with the gas on the floor. I was angry.

 

Well, next time take some track bite!! LOL

Try again another day.... And hopefully all the dummies will be gone by then.

 

That reminds me I need to buy some from someone at the track for my s-10

 

Or I'll just lower the pressure and make the MT drag radials work better. Then throw the 26x10.5s on the back and know it will work or break the ghetto tracs.

 

this is all true for a traditional cal-trac setup. what zane built is a long bar setup which works amazing for lightning guys. with no pivot on the front spring eye, there is no "hit." long bars are only there to control the pinion which will stop wheel hop. I don't think the angle of the bar matters on long bar setups, but I do think the length of the long bar can change things.

 

Yea, they are working like I needed. No wheel hop at all. I barely set any tension into them, just a snug load against the direction of axle rotation.

 

Here us the video my wife took:



Was shifting pretty good.

 

I think the "hit" is there regardless of bar length . The spring tries to bend upwards between the axle and the front spring eye, but in the process of the spring pad rotating up, it forces the front of the bar into the chassis. The longer bar will have less hit than a short bar, but the more the rear of the bar is down, the more upward pressure "further back on the chassis" the bar pushes. The longer bar will have more leverage, but if the bar is too far in front of the spring eye, the more weight it has to push and the less effective it will be at lifting the rear of the truck. With a leaf spring, you want the back of the truck to lift and plant the tires.

 

Looked like it had a good jump with the 1-2 shift.

Drop pressure to 20, heat em up again and let it rip for another round.

 

Don't need any tips, I need track time. Bastards screwed my night up good.

Anyway, here is a video of running through the gears. Took a friend for a ride and figured I would record it:

 

Was that your afr gauge jumping around 11-12?