Just an FYI for anyone out there who wants to loop the heater hose inlet/outlet from the water pump without using a hose coupler or a bunch of bulky fittings. I found a hose that works perfect.

Dayco # 87629 or Kelly-Springfield #S-4354. Not sure what the cross reference numbers are for Gates etc. Around $8-9 at most retailers.

This hose is a U-Bend hose with one side being 3/4" and the other side being 5/8". It's small, compact, and best of all simple. All you have to do to make it work is trim 1" off of the 5/8" side.

 

good find!!

 

very cool - thanks

 

will be snatching a few of these up tomorrow.

 

Here's a low quality picture (sorry!) of this hose installed. It takes up very little space.

 

This is what I use, a cleaner look than the loop.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...tegory_list=:0

 

I used those too. After a few heat/cooling cycles they burst and almost left me stranded a few times.

 

I believe it is recommended to loop the heater ports not just block them on an LS engine

 

You are correct. The rubber caps that some people try to use will bust and ruin your day hella fast.

 

Can you post the p/n, the link no longer works.

 

Thats correct they wont last and also you do want to loop them on a Ls motor. Just not block them like you can on a Gen1 motor.

 

thanks for the info.

 

wouldn't having a heater control valve in line with the hoses be the same as blocking them off ? I have the valve in my vintage air system , just wondering ?

 

great find.. thanks for the heads up

 

I have heard about a 50/50 response on wether you can block them off or not, I removed my water pump and then removed the stock fittings, (they are just press fit) and tapped the holes with a 3/8 and a 1/2 tap and cleaned out the water pump thoroughly and installed hex plugs for a even cleaner look than the U-hose method, Mark Campbell the owner of S&P is the one that recommended me this procedure, to date I have not had any type of cooling problems. I guess to each his own

 

mine were blocked on my wrx for a while....never had a problem.....i think it matters more if you are running a tank like on a vette.....my wrx just has the fill port on the radiator....

 

I believe it is for warm up primarily. When I first fired mine up, the upper water outlet was hot while the lower one was still cold. The lower one is where the thermostat is so if it's not seeing any hot water, it's not going to open very quickly, once it's open, the bypass doesn't matter a bit.

I have a vintage air setup also. My plan is to install a 1/8 - 3/16" transfer hose between them for a small amount of bypass but still allow enough pressure for water to be forced through the heater core.

 

Good find.

 

X2. Please post the part number

 

The part number is in the first post.