LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro
#401
The tab does just that. It moves the connection point to the master closer to the pivot point of the pedal and in turn decreases the travel of the push rod. From what I was told 1" of travel is all that is needed. Mine is just over an inch but will not bottom out the master nor will it try to pull the master apart when it returns. Shortening of the rod only adjusts the freeplay at rest. The travel is related to the pedal. You could use a stop under the pedal to eliminate unwanted travel or you could use a stop where the pedal rest and use the adjustment in the push rod to adjust the freeplay to achieve the travel but the pedal height will be different in the resting position. The easiest would be option one and put a stop under the pedal and use the push rod to adjust out the freeplay if you were wanting to avoid welding the tab on. I hope that answered your question(s).
#403
On The Tree
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ls2/4l70e
Snow- smokin' hot! She looks great! I love the semi-black (the same thing I'm doing!). It makes the engine look OEM. Though you are right about what you said to Steve... you will be upgrading the suspension as soon as you get her back on the road! and then you soon will be going to 18" rims, 2" lowering springs, etc, etc.....
Keep up the great work! I am a few steps behind!
Keep up the great work! I am a few steps behind!
#404
Sort of! I used the 1" x 3/16" metal they used but you will not be able to follow the placement as it will put it in the wrong spot. I bent the 1" wide tab at two 90 degree angles rather than the sweeping angles S&P instructed. What I did was installed the pedal and the master. And with the pedal at rest I stuck a bolt through the tab and master and marked the pedal where the tab lined up on it. I scribed a line so I would know exactly where it would intersect the pedal and at what angle. This is a pain in the butt so be ready to get aggravated. You are on your back laying across the door sill and working overhead with minimal space. Get everything you need and have it within arms reach or have someone there to help. I usually fly solo so maybe thats why I got so pissed. After you think you have it where it needs to go I suggest tacking it into place just in case you were wrong as I was a few times. Here is another thing to keep in mind, you will need to notch the pedal bracket to allow for the bolt head to travel by as the pedal is depressed. I would fit the tab first once you have it where you want it. I stcuk the bolt in from drivers side just enough to engage the tab to the master. You will want to go in from the other side once the tab is welded. Pull the pedal bracket out of the car along with the master and clutch pedal. This will allow you to see where to notch the bracket. Reassemble outside of the car and you will see exactly where the interference is. Go ahead and stick the bolt and washers on as you will want to run it in the car this way there is no surprises once all of it is back in the car. This seems like a lot of work but its really not too bad in hind sight or maybe I have forgot about it and moved on to the next pain in my ***. I wish you luck, take your time and I am sure you will get to where you need to be. If you need any more information feel free to ask. If you look back in my thread you will see some pics that might help you relate to what I am talking about.
#405
Snow- smokin' hot! She looks great! I love the semi-black (the same thing I'm doing!). It makes the engine look OEM. Though you are right about what you said to Steve... you will be upgrading the suspension as soon as you get her back on the road! and then you soon will be going to 18" rims, 2" lowering springs, etc, etc.....
Keep up the great work! I am a few steps behind!
Keep up the great work! I am a few steps behind!
#406
Bought a couple of things today to move things right along. Here is the bypass hose for the outlets off of the water pump. I read that it not wise to plug off these two outlets but it is ok to loop them. I got the hose from Oreillys Auto it was an in stock item.
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#408
This is my resolve to the header hitting the clutch line. I bought the 90 degree 3AN fitting from Hank Thomas today and looped the clutch towards the front and then down along the frame rail. It is far away from the headers now. I didnt like the blue fitting but you go with what you can get. Another obstacle crossed. I should have run track with all of these hurdles and these short *** legs its a wonder my ***** havent been ripped off.
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#409
This is my road block for the next week or so. I started on this piece at 8:00 and stopped at 9:30 and she is ready for a bath and then the joys of sanding, priming ,and painting. The guy wants it a bright green almost a day-glo color. Not that this has anyhting to do with my build I just wanted to let you guys know not a lot will be getting done in the upper garage until this thing is done and out of the way.
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Last edited by tsnow678; 03-07-2011 at 10:08 PM.
#413
Hopefully we wont need any heat by the time I get it running. Once the golf cart is finished it will be back to the grinding stone! I want to eliminate all of my existing parts and run out of things to do and in the mean time build the Camaro funds back up. Major purchases coming, like the Vintage Air or equivalent. I may try my hand at making a A/C compressor bracket similar to the Kwik. I need to hit up Pullapart and find the compressor just for locating purposes. I should have tapped the heater outlets and did away with the tubes coming out. If I run out of thing to do I may just pull the water pump back off and do that. That way I can run some 45 degree fittings for a cleaner look and to avoid clearance issues with the suspension.
#415
TECH Apprentice
Thanks for the advice on this tab. Sounds like I should make an afternoon out of it:-) I will keep you posted on the progress... build thread coming soon...
#416
I take it you are running the compressor down low? I was going to do that but I think the easiest route for me would be to go up top with it. I have already notched the subframe for the stupid oil pan and dont really want to hack it up any more. I appreciate it though.
#417
Its really not too bad just hard to get to. It would be best if you could remove the steering column altogether so it is not in the way. It would make it a ton easier to do this job. Its only two nuts holding it to the dash, about four bolts for the seal at the firewall, two plugs for the ignition switch and turn signals and she is ready to pull out that is if you have the steering box out already.
#418
Well the Nissan is done and the golf cart has been put on hold as the guy has left town and without a swatch of the new vinyl I will not be able to get the paint. Sort of made it easy for him and for me too!!! I put the car on stands today and started to install the driveshaft and then wouldnt you guess it another hurdle. A small one though. the bigger yoke on the input shaft I had put on is hitting the bolts of my driveshaft safety loop. Two options I can live with, 1) weld the driveshaft loop together instead of using the bolts or 2) make an entirely new one piece design. Yeah the one piece would look the best but its under the car and shouldnt anyone see it. If they are inspecting my car that close its time for an *** whooping! Gonna get out to the garage tomorrow and fire up the welder. Should be fun welding on my back and trying to make zinc coated metal look good and strong. Hope its not as toxic as galvanized!!! After the loop is done and the drive shaft is tight I will start on the exhaust. This should also be fun. Luckily everything is fairly new and should not be too difficult to work with.
#419
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Ls2/4l70e
Hey Tony and Steve... Lookie at what the delivery guy brought today!! My LS2/4L70E package arrived at ScreaminPerformance! I bought it from Travis (daytonayellowz) over on Pro-touring.com. He is a great guy to deal with!! He "stored" the package for me in his barn since Nov'10. If you or anyone is looking for a great LSx pkg, he's the guy to call! I can't wait to get it into my 'vert!