LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro
#1181
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Don't get me wrong, I am happy that it runs well, but this can be a desease. I just want to see what it can do when it hooks! I'm sure when it hooks, I will be completely satisfied and not put nitrous or a blower on it.
#1184
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Future the 4.56 will be a blast! I had a 5.14 with the spool in my 9" at one time and you talk about fun, that is until it was time to go home and was turning 4500rpm's to barely do 55mph!!! I was getting passed by the blue haired ladies on my way home. Oh how the SBC would sing when it had some gear behind it. You will need a taller tire probably to make that work in a quarter. Your eigth mile will definately improve especially with slicks to boot. I agree with the fellas, keep the 8.5. I would look for a 1956-57 Ford 9" out of a Galaxie. It is a drop in fit other than the shocks. The 9" is so much easier to work on and are built like a tank. You could swap out a center section in an hour or so and have a purpose built center for drag racing and one setup for the street for a fraction of the cost. You can buy a mini spool for the strip for like $40 and a used posi center at a swap meet for around $150. The nodular cases are the best of course the skies the limit on any rearend you choose. I prefer the drop out center for ease of setup. Clamp it in the vice and set it up without laying on your back. No c-clips either!!! NAscar runs them for a reason, light and strong.
#1185
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As far as the 5,000 dump with slicks, well thats going to be a little ways away. I still need to get my car realigned, get the PCM dyno tuned, buy slicks, buy spare wheels, and let this this suspension finish settling. I may try a street tire run first and then progress to slicks. I will definately post a video once this happens, good or bad!!!
#1186
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Thanks Tony for letting me hijack your thread. Guys just to clarify, I had no intention of selling my 8.5. I was just a little concerned about breaking it. I am going to run it with 26 by 10 slicks and see what happens. If it breaks, then I might set up my friends 12 bolt with a new posi and gears instead of rebuilding mine. The center section of my 8.5 is welded at the wrong pinion angle. I am going to install some wedge shaped shims to try and correct it before I run this Friday.
#1187
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You can buy new spring perches and have them welded on at what ever angle you want. I welded mine on at a negative 5 degrees. Supposedly this will give you more bite. The shims are an easy fix though and prolly alot cheaper. If you decide to keep the 8.5 buy some new perches and have the axle tubes welded solid to the center. Axles will cost you $285, girdle cover $140, and the studs are around $25.
#1188
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Absolutely one of the best threads I've ever read! I couldn't stop reading ALL 55 pages! Thank you for the thorough, step-by-step coverage of your conversion. It looks great and I can't wait to see what you do to it in the future!
As a side note, I noticed you are in Germanton and your son was wearing a red South Stokes Saura's pull-over in a few pictures. My mom graduated from South and I spent many of my growing-up years in King. It's nice to see a beautiful car from "back home".
As a side note, I noticed you are in Germanton and your son was wearing a red South Stokes Saura's pull-over in a few pictures. My mom graduated from South and I spent many of my growing-up years in King. It's nice to see a beautiful car from "back home".
#1189
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Absolutely one of the best threads I've ever read! I couldn't stop reading ALL 55 pages! Thank you for the thorough, step-by-step coverage of your conversion. It looks great and I can't wait to see what you do to it in the future!
As a side note, I noticed you are in Germanton and your son was wearing a red South Stokes Saura's pull-over in a few pictures. My mom graduated from South and I spent many of my growing-up years in King. It's nice to see a beautiful car from "back home".
As a side note, I noticed you are in Germanton and your son was wearing a red South Stokes Saura's pull-over in a few pictures. My mom graduated from South and I spent many of my growing-up years in King. It's nice to see a beautiful car from "back home".
#1190
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You can buy new spring perches and have them welded on at what ever angle you want. I welded mine on at a negative 5 degrees. Supposedly this will give you more bite. The shims are an easy fix though and prolly alot cheaper. If you decide to keep the 8.5 buy some new perches and have the axle tubes welded solid to the center. Axles will cost you $285, girdle cover $140, and the studs are around $25.
#1191
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The IROC was owned by a buddy of mine. He blew the stock 305 up at a dragstrip and decided to drop a 350 in it. He neglected the cooling system though and it shortly overheated. I bought the car and both engines from him for $800.
It's currently in paint jail, but I hope to have it back soon so I can drop the motor back in it. I had the original engine rebuilt (so it'd be numbers matching), but had it beefed up with a few goodies. I know it' won't have the HP of a 350, but it should be loads faster than stock. It's got hypereutectic pistons, a mild cam, high flow oil pump and water pump. It still has the original TH700R4, but I've added a shift kit and in the rear it has 3.73's.
Like I said, I know it won't be fast...but that's what I have the SS for...
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#1192
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There is nothing wrong with keeping any car original. If my car had all of the original components when I purchased it, I would be rolling around in a 327ci 210hp/powerglide with factory air. When you get it painted, shoot me some pictures via PM I would love to see it. I have almost made up my mind, rather than fix up another first or second gen I may just get a third instead. Helluva lot less rust and parts are plentiful. My wife had an 89 RS V6 and she loved it. Best of luck to you!
#1194
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Ha! You just conjered up a memory of driving home from terminal island in long beach on the LA 405 about 16 years ago. I had the 4.56s and was trying to nurse it home at 3000 rpm, on slicks, after blowing a head gasket. I was going maybe 45 mph and the chp pulled up next to me and told me I was going too slow over the pa. I sped up for a few seconds until he passed. Same rear end is in my car now. Weird part is I didn't twist the center section until a couple of years later with street tires and 3.42.
#1195
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I had an experience in the late '70s when we had trailered my 1st '69 Camaro to the dragstrip because it had 4:88s in the rear. I wasn't running slicks, though, just some great big radial tires under flared fenders. Anyway, another friend towed his car with a towbar, and he broke an axle. So, they needed the trailer, but I was not about to put my car on a towbar. For one, I didn't have a front bumper at the time, and they had told me a scary story about almost ending up in a ditch on the way to the strip. So, I began the 80 mile drive home with the 4:88s. I tried to keep it around 45 mph, but I ended up driving 55 eventually.
Anyway, the following Monday, I got off of work (at the full-service gas station where I worked), and I pulled out of the parking lot and nailed the gas. Something popped in the rearend, and the car stopped propelling itself. When we took the cover off of the rearend, we found that all of the ring gear bolts had sheared off. The rearend, which I had bought complete from another person, had a 3-series positraction with a ring-gear spacer to accommodate the 4:88 gears. I guess that 80 mile drive must have fatigued the bolts enough that they just broke right off where the ring gear spacer met with the housing.
Old memories...
Bill B.
Anyway, the following Monday, I got off of work (at the full-service gas station where I worked), and I pulled out of the parking lot and nailed the gas. Something popped in the rearend, and the car stopped propelling itself. When we took the cover off of the rearend, we found that all of the ring gear bolts had sheared off. The rearend, which I had bought complete from another person, had a 3-series positraction with a ring-gear spacer to accommodate the 4:88 gears. I guess that 80 mile drive must have fatigued the bolts enough that they just broke right off where the ring gear spacer met with the housing.
Old memories...
Bill B.
#1196
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Old memories in deed!
I had given thought to putting in a steeper gear since I now have two overdrives. The problem is the pinion diameter gets awfully small as you climb numerically in gear sets. Even though the engine will not turn that many rpm's the pinion on the other hand would be screaming. The other down side is traction. Even with a 3.42 gear, traction is minimal. At any rpm I can light up the rear tires in first on dry pavement. Second is useless in the rain.
I had given thought to putting in a steeper gear since I now have two overdrives. The problem is the pinion diameter gets awfully small as you climb numerically in gear sets. Even though the engine will not turn that many rpm's the pinion on the other hand would be screaming. The other down side is traction. Even with a 3.42 gear, traction is minimal. At any rpm I can light up the rear tires in first on dry pavement. Second is useless in the rain.
#1198
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Good luck! I made about 5 trips one way to finally find what I needed. I had close hanger bent in the shape I needed, taped together bits and pieces, and even took pictures to get what I got. I almost bought some aluminum pipe and pieced the thing together. Glad I didnt now. The lower hose was my biggest obstacle. I hit the top hose the first time. Did you buy the adapter or are you going to use the stock thermostat housing?
#1199
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Here is the compressor installed with the kwik bracket. I would break down the installation but its pretty straight forward with the instructions.
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I ended up using a shorter belt than what Kwik recommended. They called for a 101 1/8" I ended up with a 96 5/8" belt with my FEAD configuration.
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I ended up using a shorter belt than what Kwik recommended. They called for a 101 1/8" I ended up with a 96 5/8" belt with my FEAD configuration.
#1200
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Do you have any pics of the mount installed you would like to share? Are you sharing the 6 rib belt? Which compressor did you end up going with? Part numbers for everything would be a ++. There are a few guys on here that I know would love to see this happen without modifying the sub. Feel free to share a pic or two on this thread. Thanks