OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

The LS6 valley cover flat fixed by oil consumption problem. I mean absolutely stopped it. I was using a quart in 800 miles...all being sucked through the PCV. Now it doesn't use a drop between oil changes.

Just to toss my personal opinion in here...I refuse to glass bead anything that will be exposed to the engine internals. You just can't get those damn beads completely removed. Always a couple hiding somewhere. What I've done is take my parts down to the local transmission shop. They have a high pressure chemical washer that is amazing. Toss the parts in, shut the door, and let it run for a while. Parts come out like new!

I had to laugh at these latest photos. I think if we go back about 30 pages or so, we can see the same set of photos!! LOL

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Too funny. I'm half tempted to go back and quote the photos, but I'm sure Tony's well aware of the dejavu. I wonder how many interations of LSx he'll go through before I get my first up and running.

Looking forward to some 408-powered burnouts in the near future.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

and one more, Tony.
Wow, all of these shiny new parts are making mine look like an old pos.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Awesome to hear on the valley cover! Could you explain to me your hose routing for this setup? What did you use to get air back into the crankcase? I have seen some use a breather on the oil fill cap. The new valve covers are a sealed type so no fresh air line on the right hand side unless I install one.

Too late on the bead blasting! Dang!! There are no hidden areas on the front and rear covers but as a precautionary measure I will go bathe them in some Dawn and rinse thoroughly. Maybe even do it twice then use the air nozzle to blow out any residual whatevers. Thanks I will remember this for future use. I was hesitant to begin with and now after a second opinion I will use it for life.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Lol!!! Man you have one of the sweetest Camaros out there!!! I am not sure where you live but it would be nice for all of us to get together and go over all of the LS war stories!! I know I have my fair share. best of luck to you on the crank kit. hope it all turns out for ya. If it were me I would pull the engine all the way down and wash out all of the oil passages and replace as necessary. If bearing material was in the pan there a good chance its everywhere. Do you have any ideas as to why the oil pressure wasn't coming up or are you suspect the bearings were the reason from the beginning? I would definately pull the rear engine cover off and replace the barbell. Here is a photo of it.

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I am sure you have everything under control just trying to throw my two cents in there.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

All I can do is laugh also! Except I think its more of an insanity laugh than a genuine giggle! $5000+ laugh for not doing my homework! I think my laugh just turned to tears

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Even though I like to be a part of the LS community, I hope after this week I never have to post my thread ever again!! I love to help people out and will continue to do so but everytime I post to my thread it cost the daylights out of me. I am about ready to kick back, put her in first roll out and never look back. Wishful thinking I know!!! I built this engine with high enough compression so that a supercharger/turbo would not be a future option. Maybe this will curb my spending a little. Of course there is always a little laughing gas in the future. If I ever get this car to hook then we will talk NOS!!!

bmf5150

Don't feel bad tony,I'm changing my complete fuel injection,If I would have known about the Holley efi I would have never wasted money on stock crap that needs a dyno tune with every little change!!again there are other things I would do different if I had known to!!its a learning experience!!

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

You are 'Tony on the spot!" I knew there was something else I needed ...that BARBELL! Do you know what part # that is?
I definitely lucked out with the destroyed bearing material. All of the damage is to the lower rotating assy. The filter kept it all from being cycled through the engine.

FOUND IT! Rear oil diverter w/ o-ring (Barbell) #12573460

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

That 408 looks great. I think you will need to find some stickier tires. Mine got loose at 70 with the dr's and a little cool weather and tires. You will be making 100 more rwhp than me. It's going to be fun!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I cant wait to hear how the Holley works out. Keep us updated!!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Good to hear it was all contained. Now you have me curious, does the crank get the fresh oil first or does it come from the cam down? If the crank sees the oil pressure first I would suspect the bearing material went elsewhere. Either way, I would still remove the drain at the back of the block right above where the oil filter is. I would also remove the knock in oil block off at the front of the block and run a long bristle brush all the way through the block and flush it.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Dan! I will have to search around for some tires. May buy a spare pair of rallyes and some tires for the track. Fun indeed!!!

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Here you go, Tony...filter to upper rotating, then crank journals.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks GMAG! Thats great to know. I appreciate the diagram. You should be ok then for sure.

camarozz383

iTrader: (3)

awesome build!! that camaro is a beauty, where did you get your filter relocation kit? thanks

camarozz383

iTrader: (3)

I didnt notice it till you said what you used, great ingenuity! someone said if nobody nitices then it is a good job!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!
I purchased the oil filter relocation from Summit Racing but just about any good parts house should have one. they vary in price from $25 on up to well over $100. Of course I bought the cheapest one that fit my application. I needed one that the lines came in from the side and used 1/2" NPT threads so I could get the appropriate adapters for the -10AN.

Yeah the sewer pipe was the most readily available and seems to do a good job at keeping the IAT down. Not really into bling that much! I would like to find something a little less bulky in the future but for now it serves the purpose. "**** Pipe Racing" is my name for it. The Jeep offroaders actually use this setup to make their intake into a snorkel. I was just made aware of this last week. I have seen the smaller PVC used on ATV's for the same purpose.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I cleaned the front and rear covers in some varsol and then proceeded to take them to the glass beader at work.

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I spaced the windage tray up a little to clear the rods. With the longer stroke there was interference in the stock position. This pic shows the minimal clearance acheived with .125" hardened washers.

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Here is a pic of the washers I used. Bought them at Fastenal.

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ATI Super Dampener installed. I ended up going to Fastenal and buying a meters worth of M16x2.0 thread all, some nuts, washers, and more washers. i used my thrust bearing from my power steering pulley puller and some spacers to be able to press the harmonic balancer on and still had to use the ARP crank bolt to finish the job. I used the washer from the ARP crank bolt to press against first.

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It turns out the oil pump pickup bracket is also .125" so no washer there but I did have to modify the windage tray so that the oil pickup bracket could be installed under the windage tray to keep my depth correct to the bottom of the pan. I have approximately .380"-.400" of clearance with it under the windage tray. This should suffice and also prevent any dings or dents to the bottom of the pan causing oiling issues.

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I did have to cut the windage tray back to clear the oil pickup since it is riding higher.

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Rear cover is on and torqued to spec. New rear main seal. New pilot bearing also installed.

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bmf5150

Looking good!!!