futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I have valvetrain noise. As loud as my car is with no insulation and 3 inch exhaust, I can still hear it under light load. It is not too bad, because of how annoying the rest of my car is. I am pretty sure I have the ls7 lifters too.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Thats big, what have you done lately??? thats right straight out of the mouth of Janet!!!!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Once again I have been informed of bad news from the tuner. The good news is I put down 471rwhp. The bad news is my fuel pump is not holding the pressure under a load. At around 3,500 rpms the fuel pressure starts to drop down in the thirties. Alvin is going to try a few things such as swapping out the filter/regulator and making sure the vented gas cap is venting properly. If that doesn't take care of the problem I am going to swap out the pump for a Aeromotive 340lph. Here is a graph showing the pressure drop:

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I have give thought to a fuel pump voltage booster and/or an entirely new fuel tank. Leaning towards the one Sako bought. It is from Tanks Inc. and has variety of pumps and sending units for around $580 shipped.

bmf5150

Well that sucks tony!!!what ever tank u go with will probably have to upgrade the fuel pump,my ricks tank had a pump only good up to 400 Hp at the crank

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Dang man, sorry to hear about the FP issue. Sounds like a new pump is in order, but at least he's going to check the common sense stuff first. How is your fuel system set up? Is the regulator before or after the rails. I can't remember if you're using the Vette filter and return set up or if you did a full return from the front. I'm sure it wouldn't help this particular issue, but I'm just curious. Also, how is your fuel pump relay wired? A good heavy 12v lead off the alternator lug wouldn't be a bad way to go if you don't end up with something like a boost-a-pump.

Man this thing is gonna make some impressive numbers when you get it sorted out! Did they say what the AFR was dropping to when the fuel gives up?

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I am running a Vette filter/regulator just out side of the fuel tank. I am unsure of the feed for the fuel pump. I know I ran 10 gauge wire to the factory wiring of the fuel pump but the factory wires are rather small. I am not sure of what gauge wire it is but I do know its not 10 gauge. I feel like it should be in the 500 range once all this crap is sorted out. I know Alvin said he kept throwing fuel to it without any change and then realized the fuel pressure may be dropping. He said the 42lb'ers should be plenty for my application. Thats when he hooked up the sensor to monitor the fuel pressure. Voila!!! I am hoping for a quick fix but as my luck has it it's gonna cost the daylights out me. I would have never known the fuel pressure issue existed driving the car as I checked it with a gauge initially throughout the rpm range. Alvin said it would have read differently under a load and I agree. It seems you do all of the preliminary checks and hope nothing rears its ugly head but no such luck this time. I am just glad he caught it before I go romping on it or worse yet throw some nitrous to it.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I talked to Tanks Inc. yesterday and they have a pump that will suit my needs. It flows at 340lph. Thats one good thing I like about Tanks, they let you choose what pump and sender you want to run before you buy. If I have to buy another tank due to pump fitment issues, I will buy more than I need just to save myself the headache!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I will say this though, Aeromotives tech department sux donkey *****!!! I tried to get a little information from them so that I can upgrade my existing setup and it was like pulling teeth. I kept getting "if its not in our applications guide then we can't help". I am sure they have their reasons but damn come on! I am calling to buy a product from you and all you have to do is sell it! It's simple!!! That is another reason I will not shell out the extra $225 to have an "Aeromotive" tank (Tanks Inc. sells them the tank). They use Walbro pumps anyways with some pretty orange and black accents. I needed to know what the dimensions were of the 11142 pump and the tech was not about to tell me until I had to be an ***. So if you do not see your specific application on their website, save yourself the headache and go somewheres else.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I bought the Aeromotive 11142 fuel pump to work with my existing setup and it turns out the recess in my tank was causing issues with the top of the pump and trying not to kink the fuel line. I made a decision to purchase the Tanks Inc. fuel tank, fuel pump hanger, and sending unit.

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I ordered the correct fittings as well. 1/4"NPT to 6AN and the quick disconnect fittings from Russell.

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A new 0-90ohms sending unit.

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This is the fuel pump hanger part number GPA-A. It is the only one Tanks sells for their fuel injection tanks due to height limitations.

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Aeromotive Stealth 11142 340lph fuel pump.

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Here is the fuel pump hanger ready to go in.

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This is the fuel tank ready to go back in. I am not too pleased with the fuel line orientation and the limited position at which its mounted. At this point in the game I am used to parts not being like I would want them.

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Hopefully this will end my fuel starvation problems and the 500rwhp mark can be obtained. Side note to those who own a Street and Performance thermostat housing, good luck finding a 160 thermostat. The aftermarket company(motorad) that makes the 160 for the 2000 Camaro has their own design and it will not work with the S&P thermostat housing.

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

The parts look great Tony. You'll have it sorted out in no time! I see you've plugged what appears to be the vent line. Have you considered leaving that open to supplement the venting your vented gas cap provides? I don't know if it'll be necessary but theres probably no such thing as "too much venting" given the amount of fuel you'll be moving and its a long way back in there too unplug that line if you need to. Just a thought.

Hope to see this car in action soon!

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Vent it up to the body with a check valve in it, A lot of the Ricks Tanks are vented that way, the pro-touring guys have been fighting fuel smells for a while,

bmf5150

Looks good,hopefully no issue with sending unit,I never had luck with the one I had!much better now with custom one!!!my tank is vented with check valve like Steve suggested!works great I don't notice any smell

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Just another tip, I went to a couple of schools for Link Belt cranes and these cranes use some crazy pressures in the neighborhood of 3-5 thousand psi in some of the hydraulic lines that use 37 degree JIC fittings. We were always told to never use teflon tape on the AN fittings or JIC fittings. It seems to me it couldnt hurt? I see you have it on your Russell quick disconnects. Just a thought??

bigmandengo

iTrader: (21)

Yep, the seal is made by the taper. Teflon tape should not be used as it may not let you tighten it enough for the taper to seal.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

The setup I had before, using the gas cap only for venting, actually pressurized rather than creating vacuum. As long as there is a positive pressure in the tank I think it will be ok. I really don't like the fact that gas fumes would be anywhere near my car and the exhaust. I appreciate the input from everyone. If in fact there is an issue with setup I will definately put the advice to good use.

The teflon tape was used in poor judgment on my part and as soon as I go down to the garage it will be removed. Thanks for the info on the fittings. I knew that but for some reason I put it on there anyway. I worry about gas and leaks as the car sits in my lower garage attached to my house. You guys are great for sure!!! Thanks--Tony

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

She is alive once again! Now to check the fuel pressure under a load. Any suggestions on the best way to do that? I have a fuel pressure gauge and a GoPro so that might be one option. The tuner told me to use an oil pressure gauge and get a sensor to tap into the fuel rail. That way I can have the gauge inside to monitor the pressure. I could wire tie the gauge and pull the hood so that the gauge could be monitored while driving. If someone has a suggestion, I am open!!!

I did pull the teflon off of the AN fittings before I hung the tank. New lines made to fit this setup.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Probably the safest way is if you have HP Tuners is to do a data log, or another option is on a dyno, one thing for sure is you don't want to tap into the fuel rail and run a line inside the car to a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. That is very dangerous, you never want raw fuel inside the cabin, if you have an accident or just something goes wrong it will be a fireball waiting to happen. If you are talking a electrical fuel pressure gauge that is ok.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I was referencing an electrical gauge. Yeah that would be a hell of a mess if you used a mechanical and it sprang a leak!

I need to make sure the fuel presure drop is gone before I drive it 75 miles back to the tuner. I have wasted enough of his and my time.

game-over

looks good tony

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

So close! Can't wait to see 500rwhp!