going to the dark side *engine is in*
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From: Hillsboro Kansas
bell housing is loaded with bolts! pita to get out with the limited space to get a wrench into. i hope to get it out tomorrow after work. is there ANYTHING i need to save from the tahoe to go with the transmission?
If it's a junker....cut the pigtails off the harness for anything that plugs into the transmission (TCC solenoid/VSS, etc.) You may never need them, but if you have to buy them from GM they are quite expensive. Heck, just clip all the weatherpack style connectors you can grab while you are at it. Especially when you can get both sides of a connection. I bet you will end up using alot of them.
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trans is finally out! i kept all the plugs just cut the main harness to it. now the fun begins of finding a bell housing and rebuilding it to hold the power.
Things are coming along for you. I hope that 4L60e holds up. Have you thought about going TH350/TH400?? Everything from here down in this post is just for your consideration since I bet your rearend won't make it long with the power you are going to have. 
I made progress on my 12 bolt this evening. My friend is through fabbing all the mounting brackets from a spare 3rd gen rear onto my 69 Impala housing. He also got the upper tabs welded to it and fabbed the upper link bars and brackets for the mini-ladder bars. Beefy 5/8" rod ends and tubes were solid round bars (1 1/4" I think) that he drilled and tapped LH/RH. I had always thought people used hollow but thick walled pipe with welded on tube ends to build 4 link bars. The housing ends are the same stock so I'll just keep my LT1 brakes. TQ arm go bye-bye. (Not that I dislike it, but there is no easy way to accomodate it on a home-built rearend.) All I have left to do is assemble it and swap it out for the whiney 7.5".
I dare say this is going to be cheaper than all the 8.8 builds so popular for me. It would be even easier to do with an 8.5" ten bolt.
I made progress on my 12 bolt this evening. My friend is through fabbing all the mounting brackets from a spare 3rd gen rear onto my 69 Impala housing. He also got the upper tabs welded to it and fabbed the upper link bars and brackets for the mini-ladder bars. Beefy 5/8" rod ends and tubes were solid round bars (1 1/4" I think) that he drilled and tapped LH/RH. I had always thought people used hollow but thick walled pipe with welded on tube ends to build 4 link bars. The housing ends are the same stock so I'll just keep my LT1 brakes. TQ arm go bye-bye. (Not that I dislike it, but there is no easy way to accomodate it on a home-built rearend.) All I have left to do is assemble it and swap it out for the whiney 7.5".
I dare say this is going to be cheaper than all the 8.8 builds so popular for me. It would be even easier to do with an 8.5" ten bolt.
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i hope a 9" holds...
yeah i decided to ditch the th400 i had for the 4l60e for the overdrive since i will be driving the car to shows and the strip. right now my main focus is getting it driveable/ put back together. its not very pretty having a shell sitting on blocks in the driveway
yeah i decided to ditch the th400 i had for the 4l60e for the overdrive since i will be driving the car to shows and the strip. right now my main focus is getting it driveable/ put back together. its not very pretty having a shell sitting on blocks in the driveway
I didn't realize you had already upgraded the rear. I know that 9" will be adequate. (Understatement!) Non-overdrives aren't that bad if you do mostly short trips. 3.73's and a 3 spd auto could still give decent milege as long as the convertor wasn't too inefficient at cruise.
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If the transmission is off of a Vortec 350 SBC, it would be the same as an LT1 4l60e, just with a removable bell. You'd either need to adapt that bell the same way you adapt an older trans to an LSX, or just swap to a 98-02 4l60e f-body bell or another LSX based vehicle's bell with a 4l60e.
If you like, I could teach you how to rebuild one? Or a TH400/TH375-A/TH475/3L80/TH425, TH350/TH350-C/TH375-B/TH250, or Powerglide?
Last edited by 93Z2871805; Sep 14, 2011 at 04:48 PM.
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From: Hillsboro Kansas
alright. thanks merv. i hope to shoot paint this weekend on the engine bay, i ran out of sand tonight but all thats left is the drivers frame rail and the k member. then i get to start putting stuff back together next week.
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where did you get your torque converter merv? i was looking at 4l60-e.com and they have some pretty good prices on stuff. here is my list of trans parts...
hughes pro rebuild kit with red alto frictions and kolene steels.
trans go shift kit
3k stall
vette servo
maybe a few more small things?
but overall things are coming together nicely and starting to look pretty damn good. just not feeling the yellow primer engine bay.
hughes pro rebuild kit with red alto frictions and kolene steels.
trans go shift kit
3k stall
vette servo
maybe a few more small things?
but overall things are coming together nicely and starting to look pretty damn good. just not feeling the yellow primer engine bay.
where did you get your torque converter merv? i was looking at 4l60-e.com and they have some pretty good prices on stuff. here is my list of trans parts...
hughes pro rebuild kit with red alto frictions and kolene steels.
trans go shift kit
3k stall
vette servo
maybe a few more small things?
but overall things are coming together nicely and starting to look pretty damn good. just not feeling the yellow primer engine bay.
hughes pro rebuild kit with red alto frictions and kolene steels.
trans go shift kit
3k stall
vette servo
maybe a few more small things?
but overall things are coming together nicely and starting to look pretty damn good. just not feeling the yellow primer engine bay.
Stator?
Output Shaft?
Deeper Pan?
Cooler?
I'd look at PTC or Phoenix for converters.
Last edited by 93Z2871805; Sep 15, 2011 at 04:31 PM.