cyipher

iTrader: (1)

has any one done this? was looking at a cheap alternative to plug the hole.

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

I'm surprised this topic doesn't come up much. This is one of the only other threads I could find on the subject with relation to non-97/98 C5 rails: https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...regulator.html. I admit, my search wasn't exhaustive.

In another thread, Racetronix spoke of a product they were developing so that F-bodies could mount a regulator in place of the damper. I PMed them a few days ago, but haven't heard back. I'm assuming that project is dead.



After some searching I landed on APS's C5 TT page and was reminded of these Bosch regulators in whatever housing that it comes in. That prompted more searching.




A few Google hours later, I found a few sites (Bosch among them) that sell 4-bar, boost referenced, Bosch style fuel pressure regulators. The one I purchased is from Radium Engineering, out near Portland, OR. They seem to cater to Lotus. I bought their universal FPR housing (just in case) which includes -6AN fittings and accepts any Bosch style regulator. The regulator I got from them is 1:1 boost referenced and adjustable.





In the picture below, it's a little difficult to see, but the left and right cross over tubes come into the damper housing, but don't connect into the fuel rail feed tube. To double check, I plugged the center hole in the damper housing (green) while blowing on the feed (cyan), and no air passed through. Then I tried the reverse... I blew through the damper housing while plugging the feed and air exited the injector holes (and the back where I had -6AN fittings welded on). So basically the entire fuel rail works like Radium FPR housing... like I hoped.



Now what needs to change in my car is, the OEM fuel feed will be converted into a return line, and both rails will be fed from the rear. Good thing I had those AN bungs welded on!



The adjustable, 1:1 boost ref regulator does fit in the OEM fuel rail damper housing. It was a bitch to get that snap-ring in, but it fits.





With fuel rail covers on. The driver's side cover definitely has to bend out of the way of the regulator. I'll probably leave it like it is, but if I end up with a bunch of problems, I'm going to cut a hole to provide more room like in the Racetronix picture, way above.






I haven't installed this yet, and since I'll have to pull (or gut) the regulator from within the fuel bucket, I might as well wait till I can get Lonnie's double pumper. Also, since it was only $10, I'll be using the V6 F-body fuel feed line (goes straight to filter, no T-block fittings required), and probably the return line (goes straight to the nylon line running from the tank). There'll be none of this "I used my evap for a return" for me.



Just in case anyone asks, "why didn't you just spend $150 on new rails and another $150 on a regulator and another $100 in fittings and another $100 in -8 lines?"

Well, I want to make sure my planned-for wet shot and injectors get the fuel they need when I spray. Also, if I ever go forced induction, I should be good to go. I equally hate the look of stock rails and after market rails, but at least GM made these pretty covers to put on the stockers...
All I need now is a Y-fitting to feed the fuel solenoid. Cake.

thenovaproject

iTrader: (1)

Nice work

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

Gi8,
How much u got in that Bosch fpr and necessary parts?

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

I bought the spare fuel rail on this site years ago... maybe $40-50? The regulator itself was $49.00. The two -6AN weld-in bungs, -6AN Tee, and 45° fitting were $2.48 (ea.), $11.38 and $12.63, respectively, from Summit (price match policy for the win). The V6 fuel feed, return, and evap lines were $10 for all three from a junk yard. Labor to weld the bungs onto the rail was $60. I'm guessing another $40-50 for -6AN braided teflon feed and cross-over lines that I'll need to buy.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

THIS! needs to be a sticky!! i learned so much in very little time, thank you!
it took a google search to come acros this thread but this is great for people that dont want to go to expensive aftermarket fuel rails. this is what i needed

a few more questions on this.

does the stock FPR need to be removed?

i get that that the boot reference is on the fuel rail, but where does the new regulator go exactly? if you had a pic would be nice.

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

Yes, the stock regulator sitting in your fuel tank needs to be removed. Fuel pressure regulation would become the responsibility of that in/on the fuel rail.

Here you go! Green arrows push on the plunger till your desired pressure is reached then "leak" out as the cyan arrow. I hope to have some free time around the holidays to test the efficiency of this setup before installing it.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

got your pm, thanks! thats very cool how you got that to work.

RedMilleniumZ28

iTrader: (2)

gi8e7oi825, were you able to get the FPR by its self without the housing? Where did you get it? and did you get the High pressure or Low pressure regulator?

flynfrog

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for bumping a really old topic but I found a regulator that should work ordering it today for $28

Bosch 0280160575 Fuel Pressure Regulator
Should be a 4 bar Hook your vac line up and it should be boost referenced then.