My 1965 Buick Skylark L92/6L80 Swap
03-11-2014, 01:03 PM
#321
You are correct. I will have to take it back to the alignment shop for a look see and see if any adjustments need to be made.
03-20-2014, 06:44 PM
#322
Ok, I got the car back from the Shop. We raised it using the Global West coil spring spacers. I bought the 1/2" ones so that the car will be raised 1" in the front. Also got the A/C charged for the Summer. Nice to have cool air in the car.
Here is a picture showing the car on flat ground to get a better perspective. Also one trying to show the new ground clearance. The transmission should be 1/2" to 3/4" higher with the 1" raising of the front. Most of the punch list is done with the final tune next. Hoping to get that done in April.
New Stance Picture
Ground Clearance Shot
Here is a picture showing the car on flat ground to get a better perspective. Also one trying to show the new ground clearance. The transmission should be 1/2" to 3/4" higher with the 1" raising of the front. Most of the punch list is done with the final tune next. Hoping to get that done in April.
New Stance Picture
Ground Clearance Shot
Last edited by 1989GTA; 03-20-2014 at 08:57 PM.
03-21-2014, 04:59 PM
#325
I have not been monitoring it. I guess I could through the scan feature.
I can confirm that the Speedhut Freedom speedometer does not work with the laptop hooked up. However the one on the laptop works while scanning.
Another thing I noticed is that the engine coolent temperature gauge reads about 4-5 degrees lower than the one on the laptop. The sending units are in different heads.
Also while driving around the MAF IAT is virtually the same as the outside air temperature guage. If fact it will go lower faster when there is a change.
Next item on the punch is to further seal my CAI airbox and install some insulation on the inside. Down to small items now with the major one money wise being the tune.
Gotta love the A/C.
I can confirm that the Speedhut Freedom speedometer does not work with the laptop hooked up. However the one on the laptop works while scanning.
Another thing I noticed is that the engine coolent temperature gauge reads about 4-5 degrees lower than the one on the laptop. The sending units are in different heads.
Also while driving around the MAF IAT is virtually the same as the outside air temperature guage. If fact it will go lower faster when there is a change.
Next item on the punch is to further seal my CAI airbox and install some insulation on the inside. Down to small items now with the major one money wise being the tune.
Gotta love the A/C.
03-21-2014, 09:38 PM
#327
Me too. 
I might make some shake down runs this Summer to get a feel for the car. I will order some Hoozier "street" tires. I use those on my Trans Am and I really like them. Better than the MT's as they really hook consistantly. I will have to get a line lock for the front brakes in order to do a proper burn out.
I hope I can use the same skinnies up front that I run on my 89 TA. This car seems every bit as fast as my 89TA which has run 11.57 @116mph. That was on a Memorial Day weekend and the DA was maybe 1900 or more. I am probably putting down 60 more RWHP and the 6 speed auto should help.
However the Skylark probably weighs 150 pounds more. Now that everything is installed and working I will start to looking into reducing the weight. I might make an aluminum rear transmission mount. Another would be aluminum brake calipers.
I might make some shake down runs this Summer to get a feel for the car. I will order some Hoozier "street" tires. I use those on my Trans Am and I really like them. Better than the MT's as they really hook consistantly. I will have to get a line lock for the front brakes in order to do a proper burn out.I hope I can use the same skinnies up front that I run on my 89 TA. This car seems every bit as fast as my 89TA which has run 11.57 @116mph. That was on a Memorial Day weekend and the DA was maybe 1900 or more. I am probably putting down 60 more RWHP and the 6 speed auto should help.
However the Skylark probably weighs 150 pounds more. Now that everything is installed and working I will start to looking into reducing the weight. I might make an aluminum rear transmission mount. Another would be aluminum brake calipers.
...my bad. 
03-22-2014, 01:52 PM
#330
When I bought the car it came with an un-installed Old Air kit for the original Buick V6. The problem with the compressor was it had a V-belt pulley instead of the serpintine belt style. I tried to change over the pulley to the serpintine belt but no luck.
So I bought a Sanden compressor and continued on. So to answer your question an Old Air kit with a Sanden compressor. This is an under the dash A/C unit. It is very simple and does work. I am using the original heater system for the car.
One other note. I do not notice the engine RPMs change when I put on the A/C.
So I bought a Sanden compressor and continued on. So to answer your question an Old Air kit with a Sanden compressor. This is an under the dash A/C unit. It is very simple and does work. I am using the original heater system for the car.
One other note. I do not notice the engine RPMs change when I put on the A/C.
03-22-2014, 03:10 PM
#331
When I bought the car it came with an un-installed Old Air kit for the original Buick V6. The problem with the compressor was it had a V-belt pulley instead of the serpintine belt style. I tried to change over the pulley to the serpintine belt but no luck.
So I bought a Sanden compressor and continued on. So to answer your question an Old Air kit with a Sanden compressor. This is an under the dash A/C unit. It is very simple and does work. I am using the original heater system for the car.
One other note. I do not notice the engine RPMs change when I put on the A/C.
So I bought a Sanden compressor and continued on. So to answer your question an Old Air kit with a Sanden compressor. This is an under the dash A/C unit. It is very simple and does work. I am using the original heater system for the car.
One other note. I do not notice the engine RPMs change when I put on the A/C.
03-22-2014, 04:25 PM
#332
Edit: One more thing regarding the line lock. I think I am just going to use the brakes on the car. Way more than enough power to overcome the rear brakes in the water box. I will just put them on enough to keep the car from moving forward.
03-29-2014, 04:32 PM
#333
I've been busy today refining the car. Worked on the Cold Air Intake box. Basically I added some Dynamat insultation and covered up some small holes to help further seal the CAI box from the hot air inside the engine compartment. So maybe I have picked up a couple of horsepwer. Hahahaha.
Now that I am driving the car around more the metal on the cold air box tended to warm up somewhat though not bad. So I thought I would take car of the situation anyways. Here are some photos.
This one showing the added Dynamat insulation.
This one showing the velocity stack in place.
This one with the air filter in place.
And this one with the cover in place.
Now that I am driving the car around more the metal on the cold air box tended to warm up somewhat though not bad. So I thought I would take car of the situation anyways. Here are some photos.
This one showing the added Dynamat insulation.
This one showing the velocity stack in place.
This one with the air filter in place.
And this one with the cover in place.
Last edited by 1989GTA; 03-29-2014 at 04:38 PM.
03-31-2014, 04:00 PM
#334
Couple of things I have noticed while driving around and watching my laptop in the scan mode. The engine coolant temperatures are 4-5 degrees different between the sending unit in the passenger head and the one in the drivers side head. That is considering both units/gauges are calibrated the same. The one in the passenger head feeds my dash gauge while the other one feeds the ECM.
Regarding the Inlet Air Temperature in my cold air intake system. Also I have an outside air temperature gauge in the car. While sitting still the temperature will slowly rise in both of them. The IAT a little faster. This is caused by the heat from the engine and radiator. How much will depend on which way the prevailing wind/breeze is blowing.
Now once moving they will both come down to the same level or ambient with the IAT varying between 0-2 degrees more. Also the IAT will come down quicker once the car is moving. I guess this is relative to the sensitivity/calibration of the units.
I don't know if it is posible to keep the IAT from rising while sitting still with the car not moving and the engine/radiator creating all that heat. I am thinking of the staging lanes at the drag strip and then the starting line. Maybe some dry ice in my cold air box. Hahaha
Regarding the Inlet Air Temperature in my cold air intake system. Also I have an outside air temperature gauge in the car. While sitting still the temperature will slowly rise in both of them. The IAT a little faster. This is caused by the heat from the engine and radiator. How much will depend on which way the prevailing wind/breeze is blowing.
Now once moving they will both come down to the same level or ambient with the IAT varying between 0-2 degrees more. Also the IAT will come down quicker once the car is moving. I guess this is relative to the sensitivity/calibration of the units.
I don't know if it is posible to keep the IAT from rising while sitting still with the car not moving and the engine/radiator creating all that heat. I am thinking of the staging lanes at the drag strip and then the starting line. Maybe some dry ice in my cold air box. Hahaha
03-31-2014, 04:12 PM
#336
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Couple of things I have noticed while driving around and watching my laptop in the scan mode. The engine coolant temperatures are 4-5 degrees different between the sending unit in the passenger head and the one in the drivers side head. That is considering both units/gauges are calibrated the same. The one in the passenger head feeds my dash gauge while the other one feeds the ECM.
Regarding the Inlet Air Temperature in my cold air intake system. Also I have an outside air temperature gauge in the car. While sitting still the temperature will slowly rise in both of them. The IAT a little faster. This is caused by the heat from the engine and radiator. How much will depend on which way the prevailing wind/breeze is blowing.
Now once moving they will both come down to the same level or ambient with the IAT varying between 0-2 degrees more. Also the IAT will come down quicker once the car is moving. I guess this is relative to the sensitivity/calibration of the units.
I don't know if it is posible to keep the IAT from rising while sitting still with the car not moving and the engine/radiator creating all that heat. I am thinking of the staging lanes at the drag strip and then the starting line. Maybe some dry ice in my cold air box. Hahaha
Regarding the Inlet Air Temperature in my cold air intake system. Also I have an outside air temperature gauge in the car. While sitting still the temperature will slowly rise in both of them. The IAT a little faster. This is caused by the heat from the engine and radiator. How much will depend on which way the prevailing wind/breeze is blowing.
Now once moving they will both come down to the same level or ambient with the IAT varying between 0-2 degrees more. Also the IAT will come down quicker once the car is moving. I guess this is relative to the sensitivity/calibration of the units.
I don't know if it is posible to keep the IAT from rising while sitting still with the car not moving and the engine/radiator creating all that heat. I am thinking of the staging lanes at the drag strip and then the starting line. Maybe some dry ice in my cold air box. Hahaha
If you are worried about drag strip performance, I would keep the hood open in the staging lanes and push the car up to the line as far as you can. If you have a buddy with you, I would keep the hood open and the engine off for as long as possible. Once you get called to the line, have your buddy shut the hood and off you go.
Andrew
03-31-2014, 04:12 PM
#337
On The Tree
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You will naturally have a bit of heat soak. Not sure there is really anything else you can do to help prevent that. Possibly a heat wrap on the intake pipe. I can't load pictures at my work, so sorry if you already have the pipe wrapped. Just throwing out a suggestion while this is fresh on my mind.
James
James
03-31-2014, 04:27 PM
#338
03-31-2014, 04:36 PM
#339
I could keep the hood open in the staging lanes. The car rolls pretty easily.
As to the intake tube. It is .062" four inch aluminum tubing. It has a thermal barrier ceramic coating on the inside that looks like piston top coating. A greenish color. The outside is also a thermal barrier coating but black in color.
I was thinking of switching the outside coating to a heat dispersant type as I do have another identical intake tube I could have made up. Also keep the same thermal barrier on the inside. Might make a good test to see which is better.
As to the intake tube. It is .062" four inch aluminum tubing. It has a thermal barrier ceramic coating on the inside that looks like piston top coating. A greenish color. The outside is also a thermal barrier coating but black in color.
I was thinking of switching the outside coating to a heat dispersant type as I do have another identical intake tube I could have made up. Also keep the same thermal barrier on the inside. Might make a good test to see which is better.
03-31-2014, 07:06 PM
#340
I forgot to say that I ordered a ported LS3 intake manifold based on the Rick Crawford design. Also I am going to try out the BBK 95mm throttle body and match it to the intake manifold if it is not already the right size. Jut trying to see how close I can come to 485rwhp. Running California 91 octane so that will prevent me from getting more power.