Cheap and Easy LS Oil Prime set-up
02-18-2016, 05:09 PM
#1
Cheap and Easy LS Oil Prime set-up Hey guys... I posted this on the Monte SS forum so its essentially a cut and paste of what I posted there but figured many more would get some use out of this information.
Greetings folks. In pursuit of building the Monte SS that will double as my sarcophagus when I am gone. My car is currently undergoing its next phase in the LS upgrade / transformation area. In doing so, I was met with the challenge of finding a cost effective and simple way to prime my new engine.
The following video demonstrates how a simple cheap electric pump, reinforced hose, oil pan and block fittings with some cheap hose clamps can prime your LS engine for just around 50 bucks.
Enjoy!
5Pcs Brass Coupling Hose Barb to M12 x 1.75 Thread Water Connector
$6.77 for 5 fittings Only one is needed. This is the fitting that goes into the pan.
12v Fluid Oil Diesel Extractor + Tubes Truck Rv Boat ATV
$18.30 This pump has the necessary barbs to fit the hose I used. It also comes with some cheap hose but see the details I posted on the hose I used. There are also two small hose clamps that come with this.
Earls Plumbing 9919DFJERLP Aluminum Adapter
This is the fitting I used on the engine block. The threaded side that protrudes out is too large for the hose to readily fit so I heated the hose with a heat gun and was able to make it fit. Otherwise, if you want perfection, you will need another adaptor with barbed fitting.
10 Ft x 3/8" ID High Pressure Braided Clear Flexible PVC Tubing Heavy Duty UV Chemical Resistant Vinyl Hose Water Oil
$10.50
There was enough hose to do at least one more maybe even two more. There is some hose that comes with the pump. However, I feared it would not be sufficiently reinforced and might potentially collapse or tear on the fittings. You can give it a shot if you want to try what was delivered with the pump but I decided to use a reinforced hose right out of the gate as it was not that much.
Greetings folks. In pursuit of building the Monte SS that will double as my sarcophagus when I am gone. My car is currently undergoing its next phase in the LS upgrade / transformation area. In doing so, I was met with the challenge of finding a cost effective and simple way to prime my new engine.
The following video demonstrates how a simple cheap electric pump, reinforced hose, oil pan and block fittings with some cheap hose clamps can prime your LS engine for just around 50 bucks.
Enjoy!
5Pcs Brass Coupling Hose Barb to M12 x 1.75 Thread Water Connector
$6.77 for 5 fittings Only one is needed. This is the fitting that goes into the pan.
12v Fluid Oil Diesel Extractor + Tubes Truck Rv Boat ATV
$18.30 This pump has the necessary barbs to fit the hose I used. It also comes with some cheap hose but see the details I posted on the hose I used. There are also two small hose clamps that come with this.
Earls Plumbing 9919DFJERLP Aluminum Adapter
This is the fitting I used on the engine block. The threaded side that protrudes out is too large for the hose to readily fit so I heated the hose with a heat gun and was able to make it fit. Otherwise, if you want perfection, you will need another adaptor with barbed fitting.
10 Ft x 3/8" ID High Pressure Braided Clear Flexible PVC Tubing Heavy Duty UV Chemical Resistant Vinyl Hose Water Oil
$10.50
There was enough hose to do at least one more maybe even two more. There is some hose that comes with the pump. However, I feared it would not be sufficiently reinforced and might potentially collapse or tear on the fittings. You can give it a shot if you want to try what was delivered with the pump but I decided to use a reinforced hose right out of the gate as it was not that much.
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Mr. Black (10-06-2023)
02-20-2016, 12:26 AM
#7
My Pleasure!
Tried what specifically? The exact electric pump I have listed? How is the garden sprayer used? I assume as a pressurized delivery but can you please elaborate?
I was thinking the same thing along the lines of a drill operated pump if you didn't want to go with the electric.
To be clear, when I say the pump was struggling, it did have enough pressure to push through the motor but started to get hot. I didn't want to push it so I let it cool down and cycled it a couple more times and voila!
Very nice! I did see that set-up as well on the net... IIRC, you simply fill the tank with oil, connect the hose I see to the plug you remove in the block, then pressurize.
With probably and open and close valve.. Correct?
Nice.. and VERY Cheap.. I thought of something like that as well.. Essentially the same as the China Freight (AKA Harbor Freight) drill pump but with a pick-up you stick in a bucket of oil. Essentially the same way you would with a tube on a drill driven pump.
Ha! I wouldn't go as far to say that.. Some have just pulled the plugs out and turned over with the starter as well..Which is better than nothing..
What I did maybe overkill but I just wanted some extra insurance.
Cheers!
I was thinking the same thing along the lines of a drill operated pump if you didn't want to go with the electric.
To be clear, when I say the pump was struggling, it did have enough pressure to push through the motor but started to get hot. I didn't want to push it so I let it cool down and cycled it a couple more times and voila!
Very nice! I did see that set-up as well on the net... IIRC, you simply fill the tank with oil, connect the hose I see to the plug you remove in the block, then pressurize.
With probably and open and close valve.. Correct?
Here's mine, add a 1/2" drill motor and stir...
What I did maybe overkill but I just wanted some extra insurance.
Cheers!
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02-20-2016, 12:36 AM
#8
Another benefit not mentioned was the fact that this exposed a leak in the Oil pressure sending unit I installed at the top rear of the block. So, in essence, you could also use this to get a sense of confidence that all your gasket and sealed surfaces are performing as they should.
One other cheap item I had to use on the fittings for this set-up was some Teflon tape
One other cheap item I had to use on the fittings for this set-up was some Teflon tape
02-20-2016, 08:30 PM
#10
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Well, I have never spent money on a new ls before. But i have installed MANY new engines. All gm, mainly la family, and quite a few 3.6 and ecotecs. I never prime anything either. Fill with oil, fill filter if possible, disconnect coils and crank for about 30 seconds. One, it's primes the fuel system, and two, it primes the oil system. Not in the core eat form of the latter. But better then just starting bone dry.
02-20-2016, 08:32 PM
#11
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Well, I have never spent money on a new ls before. But i have installed MANY new engines. All gm, mainly la family, and quite a few 3.6 and ecotecs. I never prime anything either. Fill with oil, fill filter if possible, disconnect coils and crank for about 30 seconds. One, it's primes the fuel system, and two, it primes the oil system. Not in the core eat form of the latter. But better then just starting bone dry.
Andrew
02-21-2016, 12:24 AM
#12
02-22-2016, 10:10 AM
#14
Thanks, but full disclosure, it was not my idea. In the video I was trying to be careful as to not make the direct comparison as to what system that is currently being sold, that I have, in a much cheaper fashion duplicated. As such, in the video, I just used generic references.
Basically, once I saw the product, and the price, I figured I could do just as good for a significantly reduced price and share the results.
02-22-2016, 10:20 AM
#15
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l-priming.html
02-22-2016, 06:19 PM
#16
Seems to be the right place to ask about my situation........In regards to my 57 Nomad project......I bought the GM LSA connect and Cruise set-up......I had to change the oil pan and pick-up tube (Holley )......I was very careful to get the tube installed correctly.....3rd time I've done this so I know what to watch out for........Did this with the engine hanging from a hoist......made sure the "O" Ring and tube flange were installed per factory..........Now........Since getting to the point on the project where I can spin the engine over.......I noticed I didn't have any oil pressure on the gauge........Hummm!!!..........So......I borrow a pressure vessel as shown above with an adaptor that screws onto the oil filter position.......open the valve and I get 40 PSI on the gauge....(big smile)........remove everything and put the filter back on.......crank it over and "0" oil pressure......WTF.........Hook everything up again and 40 PSI........Take it off and "0" again.......the only thing I can think of is either the engine is not spinning fast enough to build pressure (Highly unlikely) or that dam tube is the problem ....................But I get the feeling I'm gonna have to try and drop the pan or pull the engine ..............Anybody have a simple 5 minute fix......LOL
02-23-2016, 12:14 AM
#17
Seems to be the right place to ask about my situation........In regards to my 57 Nomad project......I bought the GM LSA connect and Cruise set-up......I had to change the oil pan and pick-up tube (Holley )......I was very careful to get the tube installed correctly.....3rd time I've done this so I know what to watch out for........Did this with the engine hanging from a hoist......made sure the "O" Ring and tube flange were installed per factory..........Now........Since getting to the point on the project where I can spin the engine over.......I noticed I didn't have any oil pressure on the gauge........Hummm!!!..........So......I borrow a pressure vessel as shown above with an adaptor that screws onto the oil filter position.......open the valve and I get 40 PSI on the gauge....(big smile)........remove everything and put the filter back on.......crank it over and "0" oil pressure......WTF.........Hook everything up again and 40 PSI........Take it off and "0" again.......the only thing I can think of is either the engine is not spinning fast enough to build pressure (Highly unlikely) or that dam tube is the problem ....................But I get the feeling I'm gonna have to try and drop the pan or pull the engine ..............Anybody have a simple 5 minute fix......LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-oil-plug.html
02-29-2016, 08:00 PM
#18
Well !!!!..........I got another education today..........Got a call this morning at the shop from Coy........an Engineer from Holley........He wanted to know what and how everything transpired in my Dilemma...So.....I explained everything to him and how I felt the "O" ring was the cause of the issue.........O.K...He said !!.......I explained how I measured the tube and it was the same size as the Holley tube and since they were the same size I concluded that the smaller "O" was the issue.........He then asked if I still had the GM pick-up tube and was it tapered.........In my mind I was thinking a lead in style taper, .....And I measured the end and it measured .875 the same as the Holley tube........So....I told him I had it at home and I could measure it again and send him the info..........Humm!!!........When I get home I figured this was a waste of time, but.....I get it out and look at it a little closer.....
Wow.......Look at this .....When I looked at it originally the "O" Ring was on and I didn't notice the recessed taper area that the "O" ring sat in.........Hummm!!!!.........I called Coy back and explained what I found and what he already knew.........
When you measure the minor diameter and add the size of the larger "O" Ring vs the .875 dia of the Holley straight tube and the smaller ring.....The compression for the seal is exactly the same.........So.....My conclusion that the "O" ring was the problem was not correct........Holley had it figured out dimensionally correct........Sheesh !!!.......All that work for nothing.......but.......I still don't understand exactly what the issue was......So......Right now I have the larger "O" compressed into a space it really wasn't designed for......and......when I was talking to Coy I spun the engine over........"0" oil pressure.......Spun it over for about 20 seconds and Boom 50 lbs pressure.........So......If you have installed one of these pans.....don't worry about it.........Man.....what an Idiot .........This car stuff is hard............
And...........Congrat's to Holley for the follow up to bring that part of the issue to a logical conclusion...
Wow.......Look at this .....When I looked at it originally the "O" Ring was on and I didn't notice the recessed taper area that the "O" ring sat in.........Hummm!!!!.........I called Coy back and explained what I found and what he already knew.........
When you measure the minor diameter and add the size of the larger "O" Ring vs the .875 dia of the Holley straight tube and the smaller ring.....The compression for the seal is exactly the same.........So.....My conclusion that the "O" ring was the problem was not correct........Holley had it figured out dimensionally correct........Sheesh !!!.......All that work for nothing.......but.......I still don't understand exactly what the issue was......So......Right now I have the larger "O" compressed into a space it really wasn't designed for......and......when I was talking to Coy I spun the engine over........"0" oil pressure.......Spun it over for about 20 seconds and Boom 50 lbs pressure.........So......If you have installed one of these pans.....don't worry about it.........Man.....what an Idiot .........This car stuff is hard............
And...........Congrat's to Holley for the follow up to bring that part of the issue to a logical conclusion...