New discoveries for LS1 into Mustangs Swaps
08-10-2005, 02:57 PM
#181
TECH Regular
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: TN
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The only way you could make the stock MC work for the t56 is to make a cantilever that would change the the pulling motion to a pull. thats what i was going to do but decided to go auto
08-10-2005, 03:50 PM
#182
Originally Posted by 89lx-ls1
I TALKED TO A GUY THERE ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO AND ALSO TO A GUY AT D AND D MOTORSPORTS AND THERE ISN'T A WAY TO SWAP INPUT SHAFTS. i WAS WANTING TO PUT THE LT1 INPUT ON IT AND RUN THE LT1 BELLHOUSING AND JUST EXTEND THE SHIFT FORK BECAUSE THE LT1 CLUTCH FORK WORKS THE SAME WAY AS THE MUSTANGS( THE MASTER PUSHES THE FORK TOWARD THE FRONT OF THE CAR) BUT YOU CANT DO IT BECAUSE OF THE SIZE OF THE INPUT IS DIFF. SOMEWHERE.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/southern-members/274141-fs-t56-locally.html
You may run into a flywheel issue there as well. The flywheel I think will be the catch in swapping input shafts and running a non LS1 clutch.
I know things are easier to sit and read here. But I'm trying to kick out some ideas.
Your fox is going to be nuts
09-09-2005, 09:16 PM
#183
Teching In
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This looks like a great swap and I hope you work out all the problems.
I know that my project doesn't fit on this forum but I don't see anything wrong with putting a GM in a Ford. Cadillac 500 in a 1987 Turbo Coupe.
http://putphoto.com/madmaxx890/thunderbird/
http://www.msnusers.com/CadTBird/shoebox.msnw
Finally got my project on the road and hope to go to the track to test on the 23rd, if we can keep the rain gods away.
I think that an auto would have made this much easier but the manual will be a lot more fun.
Keep up the good work and have fun. We need more pictures.
TED
I know that my project doesn't fit on this forum but I don't see anything wrong with putting a GM in a Ford. Cadillac 500 in a 1987 Turbo Coupe.
http://putphoto.com/madmaxx890/thunderbird/
http://www.msnusers.com/CadTBird/shoebox.msnw
Finally got my project on the road and hope to go to the track to test on the 23rd, if we can keep the rain gods away.
I think that an auto would have made this much easier but the manual will be a lot more fun.
Keep up the good work and have fun. We need more pictures.
TED
09-30-2005, 01:27 PM
#184
Did you get that harness from Speartech yet, I'm getting ready to do the same swap but I'll probably use an auto.
As far as the headers, truck manifolds and twin turbos would be really bad *** and you would have something to fill up all that extra room you have.
let us know how that harness works out as well as the whole swap project.
Here is my furure LS1 recipient.
As far as the headers, truck manifolds and twin turbos would be really bad *** and you would have something to fill up all that extra room you have.
let us know how that harness works out as well as the whole swap project.
Here is my furure LS1 recipient.
10-16-2005, 03:54 AM
#185
8 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: the not so stock tribe
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
have you taken a look at tilton ? they make many kinds of slave and master cylinders
http://www.tiltonracing.com
and just out of curiousity, what year was that master cylinder out of a f-150 from ( the one somewhere in the beggining of the thread)?
http://www.tiltonracing.com
and just out of curiousity, what year was that master cylinder out of a f-150 from ( the one somewhere in the beggining of the thread)?
10-19-2005, 08:02 AM
#186
After looking at my car (I'm doing the same swap) I've decided the stock GM m/c will mount where the cable goes through the fire wall and I'll design a z-bar type linkage to push the rod into the m/c. It shouldn't be very hard to design once I get the clutch/brake assembly out onto a bench to take some measurements.
I'm an aircraft engineer so this should be a piece of cake. I'll design it and have a shop fab it up. Should just consist of a tube and 2 tabs welded on each end. An arm will have to be welded to the lower tube that the clutch pedal spins when pushed in. That arm will pull on the upper z-bar that will in-turn push the rod into the master cylinder.
I'll post a sketch on here soon so it can duplicated. Or maybe I'll have the shop fab up several of them.
I'm an aircraft engineer so this should be a piece of cake. I'll design it and have a shop fab it up. Should just consist of a tube and 2 tabs welded on each end. An arm will have to be welded to the lower tube that the clutch pedal spins when pushed in. That arm will pull on the upper z-bar that will in-turn push the rod into the master cylinder.
I'll post a sketch on here soon so it can duplicated. Or maybe I'll have the shop fab up several of them.
10-19-2005, 08:23 AM
#187
This Wilwood unit would work nicely, the stock m/c isn't the best piece of hardware to start with.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...SBMC/index.asp
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...SBMC/index.asp
10-19-2005, 08:26 AM
#188
This one is really interesting, if it would fit on the clutch assembly itself, you wouldn't need to mount anything on the fire wall.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...JDMC/index.asp
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...JDMC/index.asp
10-19-2005, 12:13 PM
#189
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: TX
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Slicknic
After looking at my car (I'm doing the same swap) I've decided the stock GM m/c will mount where the cable goes through the fire wall and I'll design a z-bar type linkage to push the rod into the m/c. It shouldn't be very hard to design once I get the clutch/brake assembly out onto a bench to take some measurements.
I'm an aircraft engineer so this should be a piece of cake. I'll design it and have a shop fab it up. Should just consist of a tube and 2 tabs welded on each end. An arm will have to be welded to the lower tube that the clutch pedal spins when pushed in. That arm will pull on the upper z-bar that will in-turn push the rod into the master cylinder.
I'll post a sketch on here soon so it can duplicated. Or maybe I'll have the shop fab up several of them.
I'm an aircraft engineer so this should be a piece of cake. I'll design it and have a shop fab it up. Should just consist of a tube and 2 tabs welded on each end. An arm will have to be welded to the lower tube that the clutch pedal spins when pushed in. That arm will pull on the upper z-bar that will in-turn push the rod into the master cylinder.
I'll post a sketch on here soon so it can duplicated. Or maybe I'll have the shop fab up several of them.
If you do fab up something that will work with Master Cylinder in this location, I would love to see it and most likely buy one from you, if you could have more than one made. This has been my biggest hangup of the whole project.
I remember seeing a bracket someone designed to mount the angled stock GM master cylinder onto a flat firewall. It was on the photo page for a guy building a LS1/T56 Miata. It looked like it could possibly be made to work in our application as well.
Both of those Wilwood Masters look like they may work, but will they push enough fluid to move the clutch enough?
Please keep me posted on this.
10-19-2005, 12:43 PM
#190
The Jr dragster m/c won't work, bore size is too small but the other one will. It has a .75 bore and should work great.
Another method might be to buy an alum. quadrant and have a tab welded onto the side of it that would push the rod as it rotates, and get rid of the cable.
If you get the twin disc clutch set up from McCleod http://www.mcleodind.com/catalog_htm/PAGE1.HTM it will come with a new m/c set up. Just a thought but it is a grand$$.
We'll get it figured out, I was going to just stick an auto in it but a T-56 would be too cool.
I'm thinking about moving the engine trans. forward to get a better loacation for the shifter. I would rather fab a cross member and motor mounts than have to cut the console.
Another method might be to buy an alum. quadrant and have a tab welded onto the side of it that would push the rod as it rotates, and get rid of the cable.
If you get the twin disc clutch set up from McCleod http://www.mcleodind.com/catalog_htm/PAGE1.HTM it will come with a new m/c set up. Just a thought but it is a grand$$.
We'll get it figured out, I was going to just stick an auto in it but a T-56 would be too cool.
I'm thinking about moving the engine trans. forward to get a better loacation for the shifter. I would rather fab a cross member and motor mounts than have to cut the console.
10-19-2005, 01:14 PM
#191
TECH Regular
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: TN
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Only Thing It Think Would Be Wrong With Using That Mc Is That I Heard Of A Guy Using It And It Kept Blowing The Slave Out Because It Was Too Much Fluid. I Rec. To Him To Make A Stop To Where He Couldnt Push The Pedal Farther That It Needs To Go.
10-19-2005, 01:25 PM
#192
Originally Posted by 89lx-ls1
The Only Thing It Think Would Be Wrong With Using That Mc Is That I Heard Of A Guy Using It And It Kept Blowing The Slave Out Because It Was Too Much Fluid. I Rec. To Him To Make A Stop To Where He Couldnt Push The Pedal Farther That It Needs To Go.
Good point, I guess time will tell. Length of travel will sure to be an important factor in getting it to work. Did I mention that the wilwood m/c #260-1304 is only like $50.
10-19-2005, 02:44 PM
#193
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Edmond, Oklahoma
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=Mystic96]
I remember seeing a bracket someone designed to mount the angled stock GM master cylinder onto a flat firewall. It was on the photo page for a guy building a LS1/T56 Miata. It looked like it could possibly be made to work in our application as well.
[QUOTE]
If you look on street and performance's site (www.hotrodlane.cc) scroll down and on the right a few boxes above the picture of their catalog click on Installing A Ls1 in a 69 camaro. Look through the pics and they made a bracket to bolt the clutch master cylinder to the firewall. There is also a detailed diagram on how to make the part. Hope this helps.
I remember seeing a bracket someone designed to mount the angled stock GM master cylinder onto a flat firewall. It was on the photo page for a guy building a LS1/T56 Miata. It looked like it could possibly be made to work in our application as well.
[QUOTE]
If you look on street and performance's site (www.hotrodlane.cc) scroll down and on the right a few boxes above the picture of their catalog click on Installing A Ls1 in a 69 camaro. Look through the pics and they made a bracket to bolt the clutch master cylinder to the firewall. There is also a detailed diagram on how to make the part. Hope this helps.
10-20-2005, 08:32 AM
#194
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 12,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've made a bracket similar to that for a 1976 Camaro, but on the Mustang its a little tighter on space. My Mustang is an auto, but if I do this again I will do a 6 speed just because 
10-23-2005, 07:16 AM
#195
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: TX
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Slicknic
I'm thinking about moving the engine trans. forward to get a better loacation for the shifter. I would rather fab a cross member and motor mounts than have to cut the console.
Also, as for modding the clutch...I was thinking....
If I could just take the top half of the F-Body clutch (where the master cylinder attaches) and put it where the Mustang clutch quadrant is...that would in turn push the master cylinder in...there's just some stuff in the way for it to work like it should so far...
10-24-2005, 09:38 AM
#197
Teching In
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mystic96
Why go through all the trouble to move the motor forward, when everything fits perfectly like it is, except for about 3 inches worth of sheet metal?? You'd have to notch the K member, move both the motor and tranny mounts, and refab the exhaust and all the plumbing, just to save cutting 3 inches out of the floor and modifying the shifter. I say it's not worth it....just cut it.
Also, as for modding the clutch...I was thinking....
If I could just take the top half of the F-Body clutch (where the master cylinder attaches) and put it where the Mustang clutch quadrant is...that would in turn push the master cylinder in...there's just some stuff in the way for it to work like it should so far...
Also, as for modding the clutch...I was thinking....
If I could just take the top half of the F-Body clutch (where the master cylinder attaches) and put it where the Mustang clutch quadrant is...that would in turn push the master cylinder in...there's just some stuff in the way for it to work like it should so far...
10-24-2005, 12:55 PM
#198
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: TX
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by smarterthanyou
You should use a 79-93 k-member and it will move the engine forward. Don't notch the k-member, notch the oil pan.
Right now the motor sits perfectly using stock Ford motor mounts, no notching anything on the motor or chassis. All that's required is removing a little bit of sheet metal that nobody will ever see anyways.
Originally Posted by 89lx-ls1
Mystic96- Get Some Pics Up Of Your Floor Where You Cut It If You Can.
Thanks
Thanks
10-24-2005, 01:29 PM
#199
Teching In
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mystic96
That won't move the engine foward, you can't use the stock motor mounts, and I don't know if the oil pan will clear the K member.
Right now the motor sits perfectly using stock Ford motor mounts, no notching anything on the motor or chassis. All that's required is removing a little bit of sheet metal that nobody will ever see anyways.
this is a pic before i cut the floor back. it shows where the shifter is located on the T56 compared to the stock location for the Mustang. You just have to cut the floor back to where the shifter is, then get a shifter made to move the handle foward to where you want it. The one made for me still fits under the stock console and sits right in the stock location.
Right now the motor sits perfectly using stock Ford motor mounts, no notching anything on the motor or chassis. All that's required is removing a little bit of sheet metal that nobody will ever see anyways.
this is a pic before i cut the floor back. it shows where the shifter is located on the T56 compared to the stock location for the Mustang. You just have to cut the floor back to where the shifter is, then get a shifter made to move the handle foward to where you want it. The one made for me still fits under the stock console and sits right in the stock location.
You wonder why you're car don't run and you have to hack up a Mystic cobra, If you don't want the shifter in the back seat listen to people that know what they are talking about.
10-24-2005, 01:58 PM
#200
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Edmond, Oklahoma
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by smarterthanyou
You wonder why you're car don't run and you have to hack up a Mystic cobra, If you don't want the shifter in the back seat listen to people that know what they are talking about.