Mystic96

Probably just as hard as putting a LS1 in any year Mustang.

CMcCarthy

At the risk of sounding crass.... if you're asking that question it's probably not a job you'll want to dive headfirst into.

red90cobra

iTrader: (36)

if you got the money to buy an 04 and put the labor and all your nickles and dimes it can be done.

CMcCarthy

Sure it can be done if you can afford to pay someone. I don't think that's what he was asking.

Diolar Magnum

that's really awesome. I see you're getting roasted on svt perf. GOOD JOB!!!

Brad

Mystic96

Got a link? I haven't seen anything about me on there lately

**EDIT**Nevermind, I saw it. Thats an old post, someone just brought it back from the dead.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

ttt

any more tips? lol

friend of mine just sold his 65 mustang.... and he wants me to help him put a LS1 in his 2000 GT mustang...


i know a good bit of GM stuff, but the only wrench ive turned on a ford was helping a friend tune a holley...

is the 2000 GT the same "bodystyle" as yours? will thoes cobra mounts you posted on the first page work? any pics or a schmatic or something on thoes hydroboost lines you have? never worked with a hydoboost system before.

i know you didnt do your wiring, but im doing the wiring on this project.. getting it to run is no problem, but i dont know what the gauges expect... any ideas or info?

fuel system wise, whats the stock system PSI... someone was saying that there truly was no return on some mustangs... it just varies the pump voltage... sounds like BS to me, but i have to ask... my thoughts were, i know a walbro 255 pump fits... so put that in there... if its a return style system, run a regulator on the chassis, and plumb a line with a quick connect to the LS1 fuel rail... if its "returnless", then figure out a way to regulate it to LS1 pressures....

as far as the trans/clutch issues, this is going to be a very streetable drag car, but it is a drag car, so its going to run a auto with a nice stall..... helps with the clutch, but any idea if the stock crossmembers will be close?

there are no oilpan/kmember clearance probs are there? any tight fits? do you have to take something off to set the engine in? (coilpacks, HVAC box, ect...)


just looking for tips to jumpstart.... he has the cash for the project, but time is limited to a few months, and id rather not waste his money...

edit:
cooling system... what hoses did you find to work? how did you handle the air bleed/throttlebody coolent hose? info?

Mystic96

Different bodystyle, but same chassis. The K-member and motor mounts are the same. I haven't found a good diagram of the hydroboost system. It's pretty simple to follow by looking at it, but I'm not sure on which are the pressure lines and which are return lines.


Speartech did my harness. getting the motor and computer hooked up with the harness shouldn't be hard. Tieing in the LS1 with the Mustang starting and charging system is a little worrysome to me, i.e., turning the key and starting the motor, and getting the alternator to charge everything. Gauges would have to be all custom I would guess. That was my plan anyways. Full Autometer setup in a custom cluster from Florida 5.0. These would hook up just like any regular car using aftermarket gauges on an LS1.

The '98 and up Mustangs are returnless just like F-bodies and '99 up Vettes. The regulator is in the tank on the pickup instead of in the engine compartment. Mine, being a '96, has a return style. Thats why i'm using a set of '97/'98 Vette fuel rails with hoses from Street and Performance. I don't recall the actual fuel pressure for a Mustang or LS1, but they're were pretty close...I was just going to use the adjustable regulator on the Vette fuel rail.

An Auto will bypass my biggest hangup, getting room to mount the master cylinder to work the hydraulic clutch. Don't know the difference in where the mounts for a T56 and a 4L60e are, but the T56 mounts in the stock location for a '96 Cobra T45.

F-body oilpan clears the stock 4.6 K member without any problems. only tight fit is the steering shaft hitting the flanges on the stock LS1 manifolds. If you have headers built or modify the manifolds to have different flanges, there is no clearance problems.

I haven't had a complete engine in the car yet, but I don't see any reason why there would be any clearance issues. The 4V is huge compared to the LS1 dimensions.

I haven't had a complete motor in the car yet to get hoses run. I planned on using Flex Hose out of Summit for the radiator hoses. No idea about the throttle body hose.

--Marcus

69LS1TRUCK

any updates on the project?

Mystic96

the above post didn't update enough?

CMcCarthy

99-up stangs are returnless. Stock pressure is 39 psi.

69LS1TRUCK

Basically what I was looking for is have you made any new breakthroughs with the Hyd. Clutch setup in the car or figured another route that you were wanting to try

Mystic96

Nothing yet, but I'm open for suggestions...

69LS1TRUCK

I'm still not sure how to do the Hydrolic setup but I do have a different Idea for the manual tranny. I was going to buy a lakewood bell housing for the standard small block chevy and bolt up a TKO 600 to it and use the existing cable setup for the mustang. You would just have to fab up a way to attach the cable to the standard clutch fork.

integrakid187

ok so I've got a fox layin around and a carbed 350 I was wonderin if everything still bolts up like the ls1 not too smart about domestics

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking along the same lines but use a McLeod modular bellhousing and swapping to the Ford input shaft and front plate onto a T56 and use a custom flywheel something the Porsche G50 guys do all the time.

The Ford input shaft would put the shifter in the needed location and you could use a Ford clutch disk and pressure plate. The flywheel and pilot bearing may have to be custom from McLeod or another clutch manufacturer.

Has anyone talked to McLeod about adapting the Ford T56 to a LS1?

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

talked to McLeod? heh, have you ever tried to do that? lol.. hard to get ahold of..



well anycase, i hope you get this clutch issue worked out fast.. my friend has decided a 6spd is the only way to go... so i guess i'll have to figure something out.
using non "standard" LS1 parts is out of the question for me.. i need this to be as reliable as the OEM setup.

i havent even had my head under the dash, so no firm ideas yet... but we have to figure something out.

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

Last time I tried was 5 or so years ago and it did take an act of congress to actually speak to anyone

89lx-ls1

iTrader: (23)

I TALKED TO A GUY THERE ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO AND ALSO TO A GUY AT D AND D MOTORSPORTS AND THERE ISN'T A WAY TO SWAP INPUT SHAFTS. i WAS WANTING TO PUT THE LT1 INPUT ON IT AND RUN THE LT1 BELLHOUSING AND JUST EXTEND THE SHIFT FORK BECAUSE THE LT1 CLUTCH FORK WORKS THE SAME WAY AS THE MUSTANGS( THE MASTER PUSHES THE FORK TOWARD THE FRONT OF THE CAR) BUT YOU CANT DO IT BECAUSE OF THE SIZE OF THE INPUT IS DIFF. SOMEWHERE.

Mystic96

Damn moneybags!! That sounds more expensive than my whole motor/tranny combo!! All I was considering doing was seeing if anyone made a bellhousing and clutch fork that would work with the LS1 T56 so one could attach a clutch cable to it.

That, or find a way to depress the master cylinder for the Hydraulic set-up and either A-make it work off my stock clutch pedal, or B-fabricate something that will press the master cylinder in, but locate the whole setup where the stock Ford clutch cable would be. That way, you have all stock parts pretty much, and not have to deal with anything aftermarket that may fail.