Mystic96

Have you ever tried to get through to Red, the one and only tech guy at McLeod? Man, I think it'd be easier to get in contact with the President or the Pope than it is to get a call into him!! It's busy everytime you call, and there is no voicemail to leave a message. It's the most rediculous thing I've ever seen.

So in short, yes I've called, but no, I've never been able to get though. I've even tried to contact some McLeod suppliers but they don't know anything.

Maybe someone can school me on how an LT1 T56 works?

89lx-ls1

iTrader: (23)

The lt1 t56 work only a little diff. than any other fork stlye trans and clutch.
The clutch fork has a pivot point just like most other trans between the throw out bearing retainer and the slavecylinder. The only difference is that the slave cyl. pushes toward the front of the car so it doesn't push on the diaphram of the clutch it pulls toward the back of the car. So if you were able to make something to connect the clutch cable to that fork it could basically work the same way as a t-5 the only diff. is the clutch but most clutches are 10 1/2 inches so i don't see how you could'n't just bolt that clutch on to a ls1 flywheel. The cable would be pulling the same way that the slave cyl. is pushing. Its hard to explain if i had a pic it would be easier. Also the lt1 t56 is about 1 1/4 inch shorter from the face of the bellhousing to the shifter mount that could of helped you with your shifter location.

The only thing i am not sure about is the input shaft. I talked to a guy at D and D performance and he kept saying that i couldn't use a lt1 t56 on an ls1 but i didn't understand what he meant so i hung up i got tired of listening to him blab on about a bunch of crap i didn't understand. I hope u understand everything i just wrote and that it helps u out.

jbk240z

Ok, lets try this one, A T56 consists of 4 comcponents: bellhousing, adapter plate, center section, tail housing. Apparently, the center sections are very similar between makes (viper, ford, gm), and the bells, adapter plates, and tailhousings can be interchanged. Check out this link, http://www.chevyhighperformance.com/...ns/index1.html
The problem with changing an LS1 bell and adapter plate to an LT1 bell and adapter plate is the LS1 input shaft is longer, see pic 1 LS1 on the right. The longer input is necessary with the LS1 as the crank is farther foward as compared to an LT1. This means a spacer/adapter is needed between the bell and trans adapter plate. See ebay item #7980650273. Now, the LT1 bell is shorter than the LS1 bell, (LT1 bell is 4.9 inches, LS1 bell is 5.5 inches) this along with the longer shaft is why a ring such as this is needed. If this all works out, you can then adapt the LT1 clutch fork assembly (which is very similar to the old type mechanical setup), to your existing Mustang clutch cable by maybe cutting off the end of the LT1 fork and weld on the end from the Ford T56 fork, then just a small bracket would be needed to hold cable end, maybe cut this piece from ford T56 and cut LT1 slave cylinder pocket and weld accordingly. See pics for reference. Ok, try this, a bracket/adapter can ordered or made. See last pic. This allows the retention of the factory T56 clutch master/slave combo. Of course it probably would require a few mods to work on a stang. The stang clutch cable quadrant would be unused, a suitable hole close to stang brake master cyl. would need drilling, and a clutch master pushrod/pivot point would have to be attached to clutch pedal arm as well. This custom bracket is made from aluminum flat stock and features the proper 22-degree angle for the T56’s hydraulic master cylinder. This bracket, along with the corresponding clutch pedal tab, which gets welded to the factory pedal, must be used to install a T56 hydraulic pull-off-style clutch. They are both available from Westcoast Connections, which can be reached at 707/546-9714. Again these are just ideas to ponder, no guarantees.

jbk240z

ddperformance.com
keislerauto.com
fortesparts.com
rsgear.com
transmissionadapters.com
a simple cable bracket idea, I know it's hydraulic in the pic, but same idea could work. See pic 1.
When I get ready to do this swap, I may try to use the ford T56 with an LT1 bellhousing, clutch assembly, adapter plate, adapter ring, and LS1 input shaft. This would minimize the mods to trans crossmember, driveshaft, shifter hole, etc. I know, another crazy idea. Maybe I should a couple and go to bed.
To view pics: click on link, then click on save, not open, this send pics to your My Documents folder, which then you can hopefully view.

Chevystang

Hi Mystic, I am beginning a LS1 powered Mustang (plan to begin buying parts this week) and would like to be able to contact you if I have any questions. Is there a phone number I could call you at?
I would really appreciate it.
Thanks!
John Lownik
Queens, NY
e-mail: johnlownik@msn.com

Mystic96

jbk240z...your research is amazing. Those pics are just a little small to get much detail though.

I see that the LT1 uses a clutch fork, and I could definately attach a cable to the end of it to pull the fork and engage the throwout bearing. I'm just not sure what is involved in bolting a LT1 T56 to a LS1. I've searched this website, and on Google, and most say it's not worth the trouble. But of course they're not doing hybrids...they're trying to swap them in for their own broken T56s in F-bodies.

Chevystang...best bet is to PM me here or get to me though emails.

jbk240z

Mystic 96, I had to compress the pic files into a zip format, because when I tried to post them here, the attachment manager said the files were too large. Even then I had to erase parts of the pics to shrink the file. Anyway, if you are interested, I could try emailing the pics to you, maybe the view will be better. Apparently all you would have to do is change the LS1 bell and adapter plate to LT1 parts, and add the adapter/spacer between bell and plate. I'm not sure this is 100%, so I will continue my research............

DopeFedZ

iTrader: (34)

Hey Mystic if you were putting in a 4l60e would this swap be easier or would there be any probs with using an auto over the M6?

CHEVYNOTCH90

i have a 355 small block may not be a ls1 but it sure whoops them....... also a th350 tranny best of both worlds light weight notch with a good power plant ...

VTESPEED

iTrader: (12)

4l60e would be a way easier swap

Mystic96

Not sure about mounts or shifters, but there isn't any clutch setup to fool with, so I'm sure it'd be easier.

30th TA 0219

who the hjell would want to do something boring like that?

terryr

The THunderbird Turbo Coupe used a hydraulic clutch. It mounted in the steering shaft hole of any fox. Maybe you can adapt it.

http://members.shaw.ca/pekpress/HydraulicClutch.html

turbo-max

wow...that's all i can say

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Boring?

30th TA 0219

Good luck with TC stuff, only the 87/88s came with the hydraulic clutch, and they're getting harder and harder to find. I can get oyu a pedal set-up though!
Try www.turboford.org

jbk240z

Is this the answer? It sure seems this would be the way to go. I never knew this setup existed. Those ford engineers are clever after all. I really think this can work with only minor mods. Great idea, TerryR! I'm going to the boneyard a.s.a.p. and try to find a Turbo Coupe setup, there was an '87 or '88 model there last time. Finally this is what seems to be an easier way out, as I have been trying to come up with something.

http://members.shaw.ca/pekpress/HydraulicClutch.html
Thanks again for the idea terryr

Mystic96

I was sure there were some Ford cars with hydraulic clutch setups. The Ranger I knew for sure had one.

The master cylinders pictured on that webpage look almost identical to the stock F-body master cylinder. At least the Ranger one does.

I'm assuming that is a clutch pedal out of a Thunderbird? I doubt the clutch assembly from an '88 T-bird would swap into a '96 Cobra.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (12)

what are the odds of someone producing an ls1 fox body header? Im not the best weith a welder. In fact my garage wont even support one

Dave

Mystic96

Also, this doesnt get past the fact that there isn't much room on the firewall or floor to mount the master cylinder and connect it directly to the pedal.

If the space was there, I'd just drill a hole big enough to mount the F-body master cylinder to the stock Mustang clutch pedal. I'm worried the only place the master cylinder will fit well is in the old clutch cable location, and this is on the firewall, almost directly in front of the gas pedal location.

I've looked at taking the top of the F-body pedal (where the master cylinder attaches) and putting it where the clutch quadrant is. This would work but as the pedal rotates up, it comes in contact with the metal pushrod of the master cylinder before it starts to push the pushrod in.