you should be able to do it with any transmission

 

Yeah I know you should be able to, but is it the preffered method? I dropped a number of motor trans combos in in my day, done it both ways and they each hev there advantages.

 

how bout just remove the fenders and core support? thats what i did.

 

I thought about that but hell thats alot of work.

 

I removed the fenders and the core for my swap and it really not that much work. I was able to slide the engine and t56 trans together into the truck without moving the cab. You are going to find your swap alot easier with the open room to install parts onto the engine.

 

Trust me its not really that much work considering the swap overall,Its well worth the time to do it.Unless you think you can get the motor in the perfect spot on the first try.After pulling mine out 4 times I can tell you i am glad I did it.Also its a good time to update to a 98+ front end which is the other reason I did it.

 

Rofl... it took me a hour to pull it all a part by myself... i think the fenders were the toughest lol... everytime i went to pull on it i had another bolt somewhere. I swear there was like 20 bolts per fender... It was really easy tho... I had the whole truck pulled with the motor ready to come out in about 2 hours, but i took a smoke/beer break everytime i went to the tool box... the next night i had the motor pulled out. Now im cleaning the frame and test fitting. I have been looking for pictures of the front view( with the core support off)of the motor in with vette accessories on it. I might be having clearence problems with the p/s pump and gearbox (using custom brackets from carshopinc)

anyway yeah 2 hours to pull off the fenders/core support saves you the 3 hours and sore back from leaning over them...

 

Here are pics of my motor back in the day when i first test fit it. Hope these help with the front view.

 

does any vette alt and a/c brackets work. from 97 to 02. or do they have to be c6 brackets?this will be for 2001 6.0l.

 

any vette acc's from 97 - 06 will work

 

Yeah I thought about all the ease of working on the truck w/o fenders but I am also thinking about what a pita it is to get the bodies lined up properly afterwards.

 

Its actually easier than you think....it only took me like 20 minutes to put the inner fenders and fenders and hood mocked on....and then it took me and my wife only about 10 minutes to align everything up...then just tighten it all down....and DONE!

 

I must just go that route.

 

so im looking at wheels, anyone have a set of american racing hopsters on? I am thinking about 15x4 up front and 16(or17?)x8 in rear

 

Any of you guys more your trucks so that they also handle better? Brakes and Suspension?

 

I've installed 13" triple caliper brakes on the front from SSB. Hydroboost system. Running 18"x8" wheels and 255/55x18" tires. Edlebrock Performer shocks. Height matched-front and rear.

2000 4-door Blazer: 6.0, Magnuson blower, 4L65E, 2200 Stall, 3.73 front and rear, posi rear.

 

ok, got my harness back from speartech, AWESOME job, everything is clean and perfect, just what we wanted! also, can anyone tell me why my bolt pattern for my truck is 5 x 4.5 and not 5 x 4.75?

 

What motor mounts did you use?? Looks like it cleared everything.

 

Not a clue.

I don't think Chevy ever used that pattern....Thats an old Ford pattern (also used on AMC's and boat trailers).

I can't say why your truck would be different. Does it have aftermarket brakes or something? Are you positive its 5 on 4.5? How'd you figure out its not 5 on 4.75"?

'JustDreamin'

 

k, figured it out, my wheels are dual drilled, and well, i have a ford 9" in the rear... guess he just kept the ford pattern, because my fronts are 4.75 so im going to have him change it back when we take it up to him again