s10 ls1ers
I wrote this for another guy but im sure it will answer some of your questions...
Thats a good price... but why go why auto tranny? why not go with the t-56 its a 6 speed which is really a great piece on the back of an ls1... it makes more since to go from manual to manual...
BTW I have the 2.2 out of my truck and cleaning up the frame and **** for a mock up soon...(collecting pictures to do a complete write as i go along..) does anyone know if the 2.2 cruise control cable will work...?
I talked to v8power over at s10forum.com (which is the guy who wrote the swap manual) In his book he said he used the 4.3 cruise cable but i pm'ed him and we was pretty sure the 2.2 should reach. Does anyone know for sure?
Do you guys think its a good idea to keep the stock 2.2 sending unit and drop a walbro into it(keep in mind the smaller fuel output lines)? would the smaller lines mess with the amount of fuel volume needed to power a stock ls1?
Originally Posted by gmax111
ls6 oil pan? not sure which one you have... by what i have read by multiple users, the ls2 pan is the best... you will still have to notch the cross-member with all the pans. Unless you order a custom cut truck pan then you wont have to cut the cross-member but the truck pan hangs low - lower than the cross member. A regular truck pan will work with little cutting... i've heard the vette pan works well but Im going to make the f-body pan work only because i didnt do to much research before getting it...
you can use 98-99 f-body exaust manifolds will little modding found on ebay or local salvage yard or 4 sale on here... i think 98 is better then the 99 because they are weld-able (someone correct me if im wrong)...not so sure about the z06 manifolds never heard of anyone using them.. the main problem is clearance from the steering shaft... im using sanderson shorty headers for my swap many peolpe have used them and they are avalible from jagsthatrun.com or if you get your wiring harness from jared at currentperformance.com(highly recommended) then order the headers from him... jagsthatrun.com will take up to 90 days to get your stuff so i advise to stay away from him...
you need ls1 mounts and the old 2.8 truck mounts avalible from currentperformance.com...he gave me free 2.8 mounts because i ordered headers and harness from him... i got my ls1 motor mounts from carshopinc.com i recommend them as well... jagthatrun.com, carshopinc.com also carry the ls1 and 2.8 mounts... @ carshopinc.com the ls1 and the 2.8 mounts come in a kit for about $80
carshopinc.com has an accessory kit (includes all accessories, brackets and pulleys) that helps for clearance and the brackets and pulleys are made from billet... its $1350 for the whole setup which is roughly the same price as all the vette stuff new... or you can mix and match thier stuff with vette stuff either way you go you have to notch the frame for the a/c compressor... (unless you use custom a/c relocation brackets which i dont recommend because it takes from intake space)... I know someone on s10forum.com made the truck accessories work but i think he just got lucky...
some good websites to research before considering this swap...
http://ls1blazer.tripod.com/index.html - good idea to get the swap manual he sells. Gives you a basic idea on what needs to be done...
http://www.geocities.com/jays_s10/ (the ls1 swap section) - thanks to kossuth for all this information it really helped me realize what i was getting into...
www.s10forum.com - v8 section ( alot of swap information to read... just search the forum )
also read all the information on www.currentperformance.com there is alot of electrical problems your going to run into with the 94 over a 98+
and also
www.carshopinc.com - a guy named Ellic that works there knows alot about this swap...
www.jagsthatrun.com - i wouldn't order from hear unless u have too...
and i probably shouldn't even put this site but
www.ls1performanceparts.com
( i have not heard of 1 person being happy with them and you should not consider using them unless you dont mind buying garbage and waiting months for your stuff... if that)
you can use 98-99 f-body exaust manifolds will little modding found on ebay or local salvage yard or 4 sale on here... i think 98 is better then the 99 because they are weld-able (someone correct me if im wrong)...not so sure about the z06 manifolds never heard of anyone using them.. the main problem is clearance from the steering shaft... im using sanderson shorty headers for my swap many peolpe have used them and they are avalible from jagsthatrun.com or if you get your wiring harness from jared at currentperformance.com(highly recommended) then order the headers from him... jagsthatrun.com will take up to 90 days to get your stuff so i advise to stay away from him...
you need ls1 mounts and the old 2.8 truck mounts avalible from currentperformance.com...he gave me free 2.8 mounts because i ordered headers and harness from him... i got my ls1 motor mounts from carshopinc.com i recommend them as well... jagthatrun.com, carshopinc.com also carry the ls1 and 2.8 mounts... @ carshopinc.com the ls1 and the 2.8 mounts come in a kit for about $80
carshopinc.com has an accessory kit (includes all accessories, brackets and pulleys) that helps for clearance and the brackets and pulleys are made from billet... its $1350 for the whole setup which is roughly the same price as all the vette stuff new... or you can mix and match thier stuff with vette stuff either way you go you have to notch the frame for the a/c compressor... (unless you use custom a/c relocation brackets which i dont recommend because it takes from intake space)... I know someone on s10forum.com made the truck accessories work but i think he just got lucky...
some good websites to research before considering this swap...
http://ls1blazer.tripod.com/index.html - good idea to get the swap manual he sells. Gives you a basic idea on what needs to be done...
http://www.geocities.com/jays_s10/ (the ls1 swap section) - thanks to kossuth for all this information it really helped me realize what i was getting into...
www.s10forum.com - v8 section ( alot of swap information to read... just search the forum
)also read all the information on www.currentperformance.com there is alot of electrical problems your going to run into with the 94 over a 98+
and also
www.carshopinc.com - a guy named Ellic that works there knows alot about this swap...
www.jagsthatrun.com - i wouldn't order from hear unless u have too...
and i probably shouldn't even put this site but
www.ls1performanceparts.com
( i have not heard of 1 person being happy with them and you should not consider using them unless you dont mind buying garbage and waiting months for your stuff... if that)
Thats a good price... but why go why auto tranny? why not go with the t-56 its a 6 speed which is really a great piece on the back of an ls1... it makes more since to go from manual to manual...
BTW I have the 2.2 out of my truck and cleaning up the frame and **** for a mock up soon...(collecting pictures to do a complete write as i go along..) does anyone know if the 2.2 cruise control cable will work...?
I talked to v8power over at s10forum.com (which is the guy who wrote the swap manual) In his book he said he used the 4.3 cruise cable but i pm'ed him and we was pretty sure the 2.2 should reach. Does anyone know for sure?
Do you guys think its a good idea to keep the stock 2.2 sending unit and drop a walbro into it(keep in mind the smaller fuel output lines)? would the smaller lines mess with the amount of fuel volume needed to power a stock ls1?
Originally Posted by gmax111
I Do you guys think its a good idea to keep the stock 2.2 sending unit and drop a walbro into it(keep in mind the smaller fuel output lines)? would the smaller lines mess with the amount of fuel volume needed to power a stock ls1?
what size are your fuel lines now?
Im not real sure what size the fuel lines are...
I know the output line on the fuel sending unit for the s10 is just a fraction smaller than the f-body one tho... ill have to look in to it to check for sure what size it is... anyone know a good trick to measuring them?
I know the output line on the fuel sending unit for the s10 is just a fraction smaller than the f-body one tho... ill have to look in to it to check for sure what size it is... anyone know a good trick to measuring them?
Originally Posted by BluLS1
because, auto is faster and i am lazy HAHA
Your to lazy to shift? or to lazy to do the work for the manual because i would think thier is a little more work to do to convert your manual to auto. Then your going to have a hole in your carpet and center console (if there is a console)...
but to each thier own...
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From: TAMPA by way of MIAMI!!!
They say auto is faster in the 1/4 mile but on a road course or even in the streets for that matter the manual is faster. I have an auto in my Blazer and yes it's easier and much more mindless but when I do my swap I'm doing a T-56 and I'll get better mileage because of it too.
Originally Posted by gmax111
Im not real sure what size the fuel lines are...
I know the output line on the fuel sending unit for the s10 is just a fraction smaller than the f-body one tho... ill have to look in to it to check for sure what size it is... anyone know a good trick to measuring them?
I know the output line on the fuel sending unit for the s10 is just a fraction smaller than the f-body one tho... ill have to look in to it to check for sure what size it is... anyone know a good trick to measuring them?
Originally Posted by gmax111
Auto is faster?????????? what world do you live in?
Your to lazy to shift? or to lazy to do the work for the manual because i would think thier is a little more work to do to convert your manual to auto. Then your going to have a hole in your carpet and center console (if there is a console)...
but to each thier own...
Your to lazy to shift? or to lazy to do the work for the manual because i would think thier is a little more work to do to convert your manual to auto. Then your going to have a hole in your carpet and center console (if there is a console)...
but to each thier own...
well thats all we have around here is 1/4 miles tracks. and i don't run road coarses. a buddy of mine, which is one of the better drivers around here, just swap his T56 to a 4L60e an 3500 stall and has proven that it is faster with a good tune. he runs better times with auto. ALOT less likely to break axles. and the list could go on and on. yes a T56 may be more durable but an auto has it advantages too. all this has been proven. and i know it all depends on the driver so don't start any of this driver this and driver that. think about it, how are you going to miss a gear with an auto?
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Resident
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From: TAMPA by way of MIAMI!!!
wait till one of the solenoids goes in that 4L60/80, you won't miss you just won't go.
I agree though it really is a matter of preferance. The only time I ever regretted having a stick in the past is during rush hour. I still wanna go stick with mine what could be cool though is a paddle shifting 6-speed maybe I could be the first to jack one out of a 'Vette. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm?
I agree though it really is a matter of preferance. The only time I ever regretted having a stick in the past is during rush hour. I still wanna go stick with mine what could be cool though is a paddle shifting 6-speed maybe I could be the first to jack one out of a 'Vette. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm?
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 841
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From: Baltimore, MD.
Originally Posted by firefighter
wait till one of the solenoids goes in that 4L60/80, you won't miss you just won't go.
Originally Posted by firefighter
I agree though it really is a matter of preferance. The only time I ever regretted having a stick in the past is during rush hour. I still wanna go stick with mine what could be cool though is a paddle shifting 6-speed maybe I could be the first to jack one out of a 'Vette. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm?
Manual should have an advantage on road courses (because of being in the correct gear) and has an efficiency advantage (which translates into more power to the rear) and therefore should be faster / quicker in the quarter mile.
Auto has a couple of advantages. They are much more consistent (no operator intervention with the clutch), easier on parts (think broken rear ends), and transmission strength is much higher (4L60E's excluded). Planetary type transmissions (autos) by design have greater strength (they've got 3, 4, or 5 gears transmitting power), and therefore can handle more power than conventional single mesh manuals. Big rigs run double mesh manuals for additional power capacity, but that extra shaft uses space and hurts efficiency and cost.
I thought about a T56 for my AWD swap, and decided against it. The Typhoon and Syclone guys don't break much of anything except transmissions. Granted, they are running 700R4's, but even "set on kill" transmission builds break in those trucks. A T56 doesn't stand much of a chance in that application. Which is why I chose the 4L80E. Guess I'll see how it works out.
The new 6speed would be a great swap, but I believe the electronics will be what keeps it from quick adoption. As far as I'm aware, there is not an aftermarket operating solution for it, which limits retrofits. And I think you've got to be running the GenIV engine controls (LS2, L92, etc) in order to control it, which would certainly limit your engine package choices. Guess we'll see what happens when the aftermarket has had some time with it. Also would be good to see how strong that new 6 speed is, only time will tell there.
'JustDreamin'
My truck is a 2000 2.2 auto... im sure the fuel lines/fuel sending unit are the same as every s10 94+.
btw how do you know what size based from year? or do you just know...?
I finially got the engine pulled out of my truck and im going to start cleaning the frame this week.. and i might try to fit the motor in there...
Hey i have another good question... There is no where to really hook a chain up to my ls1 for a hoist... when we got the motor i pulled it out of the bed of a truck by wrapping chains around the stock manifolds that are on it but im afriad im going to bust something up like that, not to mention that wont work for engine and trans bolted together...
any good home rememdies for this? as far as a way to do it without buying anything like eye bolts...
btw how do you know what size based from year? or do you just know...?
I finially got the engine pulled out of my truck and im going to start cleaning the frame this week.. and i might try to fit the motor in there...
Hey i have another good question... There is no where to really hook a chain up to my ls1 for a hoist... when we got the motor i pulled it out of the bed of a truck by wrapping chains around the stock manifolds that are on it but im afriad im going to bust something up like that, not to mention that wont work for engine and trans bolted together...
any good home rememdies for this? as far as a way to do it without buying anything like eye bolts...
take the intake off. dont worry all the gaskets on it are reusable. run a chain from front pass side head to the back driver side head. the holes on the end of the heads closest to the intake works great. theyre big holes 10x1.5. do not use the intake bolt holes, they might not hold the weight. if you need the intake bolt torque, just let me know.
you fuel lines and pump will work just fine, theyre 3/8 feed and 5/16 return.
you fuel lines and pump will work just fine, theyre 3/8 feed and 5/16 return.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 841
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From: Baltimore, MD.
Originally Posted by Ls2Sonoma
take the intake off. dont worry all the gaskets on it are reusable. run a chain from front pass side head to the back driver side head. the holes on the end of the heads closest to the intake works great. theyre big holes 10x1.5. do not use the intake bolt holes, they might not hold the weight. if you need the intake bolt torque, just let me know.
.
.
Here's what worked for me: On my 6.0L with 317 heads, there are 3 bolt holes above the exhaust manifold pattern. I picked up a bolt hole on each head with a chain (either diagonal for some stability or straight across from the middle set of holes for ability to pivot it back and forth). The only concern with that method is it does apply some pressure to the valve covers, and you may still have intake clearance.
Anyway, it worked for me for the 1500 times (ok, it wasn't that many, but I bet it was at least 2 dozen times) that the motor went in and out.
'JustDreamin'
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Dover Arkansas
lifting rig I built a steel valley cover and welded a long verticle 3" plate to that. It had 2 holes in it and connected to a load leveler lift rig. This alowed clearance to the firewall and I could raise or lower the rear or front of the engine. With the passenger head 1/8 " from AC housing on the firewall, my truck intake clears everything including heater hoses, so no worry there. Just be careful about your wiper motor, because it hit that. Good luck. This is 96 S10 Blazer with 2005 5.3.
i contemplated building something to lift it by the valley cover as well.... since the drivers side head was set forward, i had plenty of room for the chain between the firewall.
heres the best idea: just do an all aluminum engine, then you can lift it in by hand =]
heres the best idea: just do an all aluminum engine, then you can lift it in by hand =]
lol... yeah all aluminum engine but what about engine plus tranny? Who sells all aluminum 4l60e's? rofl...
My other idea was to take a nail gun, hook it up to my air compressor turn the switch to fully auto and shoot it until it jumps in there...
I think i might do it like ls2sonoma said... what is the torque on the intake bolts? i dont understand how you know all of this... I mean the fuel sending unit was one thing but what about the small specs like torque on all the bolts? is there a book out there floating around?
My other idea was to take a nail gun, hook it up to my air compressor turn the switch to fully auto and shoot it until it jumps in there...
I think i might do it like ls2sonoma said... what is the torque on the intake bolts? i dont understand how you know all of this... I mean the fuel sending unit was one thing but what about the small specs like torque on all the bolts? is there a book out there floating around?
Originally Posted by gmax111
lol... yeah all aluminum engine but what about engine plus tranny? Who sells all aluminum 4l60e's? rofl...
My other idea was to take a nail gun, hook it up to my air compressor turn the switch to fully auto and shoot it until it jumps in there...
I think i might do it like ls2sonoma said... what is the torque on the intake bolts? i dont understand how you know all of this... I mean the fuel sending unit was one thing but what about the small specs like torque on all the bolts? is there a book out there floating around?
My other idea was to take a nail gun, hook it up to my air compressor turn the switch to fully auto and shoot it until it jumps in there...
I think i might do it like ls2sonoma said... what is the torque on the intake bolts? i dont understand how you know all of this... I mean the fuel sending unit was one thing but what about the small specs like torque on all the bolts? is there a book out there floating around?
i build engines for a living, i have all the specs i need from work. =]
first pass 44 in/lbs, second pass 89 in/lbs