s10 ls1ers
the problem is how tight they are. i have 1 3/4" long tubes that almost touch the frame and i had to clearance my bellhousing for one of the pipes. it might not be as bad with different mounts, but its very difficult to make headers that will fit for everyones application unless the tubes are 1 1/2" since no truck is the same
anyone got any help for me on my questions on the last page?
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superman
your trans questions have lots to do with the mounts. there are several brands of mounts that will define where the engine sits which locates the trans differently. you can use the stock crossmember if you can modify it slightly, but you may not have to. in my case, i made my own mounts, which moved my trans back 1/2" so no shortening was needed. i only had to slot the hole for the mount. also the 4L60E has different lengths....
f-bodies, iirc, have the same rear end setup as the s10s do... look for an s10 with the RPO code G80 for the limited slip, or change the carrier. theres a beautiful writeup on www.s10forum.com that walks through upgrading the stock 7.5 rear end.
wiring, depending on the year, your wiring capabilities, and pocket change you have several options. the expensive option is to buy a harness from speartech or current performance. they custom build them for your application. the cheaper route is you can wire yourself. its not as difficult as most make it sound.
no one uses the vette pan, it doesnt fit. the H3 alpha pan fits without cutting, but it still hangs below the crossmember
you cant use all the stock a/c,the pump doesnt mount to the LSx engine. the pump you will use is based on the acc's you run. C5 fits the best, but there are cheaper alternatives.
sanderson makes shorties for the swap, or you can get a package through current performance. check out the LSx forum on s10forum for all the contact info.
does this help?
your trans questions have lots to do with the mounts. there are several brands of mounts that will define where the engine sits which locates the trans differently. you can use the stock crossmember if you can modify it slightly, but you may not have to. in my case, i made my own mounts, which moved my trans back 1/2" so no shortening was needed. i only had to slot the hole for the mount. also the 4L60E has different lengths....
f-bodies, iirc, have the same rear end setup as the s10s do... look for an s10 with the RPO code G80 for the limited slip, or change the carrier. theres a beautiful writeup on www.s10forum.com that walks through upgrading the stock 7.5 rear end.
wiring, depending on the year, your wiring capabilities, and pocket change you have several options. the expensive option is to buy a harness from speartech or current performance. they custom build them for your application. the cheaper route is you can wire yourself. its not as difficult as most make it sound.
no one uses the vette pan, it doesnt fit. the H3 alpha pan fits without cutting, but it still hangs below the crossmember
you cant use all the stock a/c,the pump doesnt mount to the LSx engine. the pump you will use is based on the acc's you run. C5 fits the best, but there are cheaper alternatives.
sanderson makes shorties for the swap, or you can get a package through current performance. check out the LSx forum on s10forum for all the contact info.
does this help?
much like superman, I've trolled through the thread but its hard to keep all of this stuff straight. I've got a 2.2L at the moment and am working on an iron block LS1. I plan to boost it later down the road, but for now I just want a stock LS1, I felt I could piece it together and save a little money. I plan on running C6 wheels and am unsure of the drop I can run with those. Should I plan for v-6 springs to handle the extra weight of the iron block?
Man am I pissed I went by the paint shop today to check on the progress of my little dime. Before it went in there were a few spots in the floorboard where it had surface rust only under the carpet. No biggie I sand blasted them ospho'd them and sprayed primer over them. No interior and no glass in the truck. I have been checking on it once a week for the last month to keep tabs on it. It is in a covered carport area but apparently in got real WET where I primered it, it now has bubble rust.
It's not the first time I have used this guy or shop but **** give me break come on a complete paint job and they dont even try to cover it up WTF.
It's not the first time I have used this guy or shop but **** give me break come on a complete paint job and they dont even try to cover it up WTF. much like superman, I've trolled through the thread but its hard to keep all of this stuff straight. I've got a 2.2L at the moment and am working on an iron block LS1. I plan to boost it later down the road, but for now I just want a stock LS1, I felt I could piece it together and save a little money. I plan on running C6 wheels and am unsure of the drop I can run with those. Should I plan for v-6 springs to handle the extra weight of the iron block?
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Verdad Gallardo I was planning on running the AFX Spindles, These give a 1" drop. I'm assuming this causes some sort of issue not having a full 2" spindle drop?
Thank you very much LS2sonoma! Was very helpful. Kind of trial and error im seeing with how i end up mounting my engine to what i need to do with the trans/driveshaft. I'm in the process right now of gather parts for this on the side to complete my ls1 longblock while getting my TA ready for the road. Thanks!
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my front clip is off, my frame is notched and my tunnel is even blown out a little. I tried for a loong time today with no success. I feel like an idiot. The pan gets hung up about 1 inch before it can drop down and allow the tranny to clear the tunnel and move the pan back to create firewall/head clearance.
my front clip is off, my frame is nothed and my tunnel is even blown out a little. I tried for a loong time today with no success. I feel like an idiot. The pan gets hung up about 1 inch before it can drop down and allow the tranny to clear the tunnel and move the pan back to create firewall/head clearance.
well if its anything like with my old small block, their will be no room for the bellhousing bolts if i put the motor and tranny in seperately, and the 5.3 sits further back if anything....im stumped.
we had room on the pass side. on the dr side there was no room for 1 bolt. we used allen head bolts and drilled a hole in the fire wall. installed from inside. used a plastic plug to cover the hole.