So everybody is using the LS2 oil pan now instead of the truck pans? I'm planning on cutting the center out of the crossmember and using tubing across whats left so thats not an issue at all, and the stock steering wont be an issue either with a rack and pinion going in it. Without reading all these pages, does anybody make BIG headers for these swaps? At least 1 7/8s primaries, prefer 2".

 

Go to Lowes and buy the cable and crimps and make your own cable. You might have to buy the crimpers too. I'd just measure what you need, have them cut the cable then go over and use a pair of crimpers off the rack and put them back. Why buy for one time use. Good luck. I think Tractor Supply has the stuff too.

 

im running the truck pan.

 

stock truck pan here also

 

Jay your s10 sounds similar to what we're gonna build to start out with, except fuel injected, and we're going to have a powerglide. What was your old head/cam combo that went 11.20 (presumably n/a?)

 

There are no production big tube headers available for this swap.

You can either get production ones (I think they're either 1 5/8" or maybe 1 3/4") or you'll be fabbing your own.

'JustDreamin'

 

Well the "starter" motor wont need that big of a header but I don't want to build two sets, so we'll probably just order some bends and build them.

 

I haven't had a chance to read through all these pages, but I figured I would show this link in case nobody else has yet:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/h...il-pan-308318/

Looks like a cheaper pan without any crossmember modification.

 

Well I tried the cable clamps. It worked but I just could not let it go it just seemed hacked even though it worked perfect. I ordered four door cables and it all fit up factory perfect. I only had to move the oem bracket bolted to the fram forward about six inches.

 

Dropped the motor in to check for pan/crossmember clearance. I made the the notch the same as others ive seen online (2" x 10"), and its way bigger than it needs to be. Just thought it was interesting, and that it might save other from cutting so much out. My motor sits as far forward as the mounts allow too.

 

i like pix

i did the same thing.. cut out 2" x 10" first but i had to notch the hell out of that notch. my pan sits much lower than that. i made my own mounts, hey...... yea, did i mention i have severe intake tube routing problems? lol

good work mang

 

was there any notching in the first picture?? what pan did you use? i'm still debating on usin the ls2 pan or the h3 pan

 

I just bought the H3 pan so i hope that works well for me. I have to notch for ac anyways. Im going to try to make the fbody accessories work, but this project isnt happening for a few months

 

Yes, they were all taken at the same time, i didn't notch the top of the crossmember though. Their is more room between the pan and the crossmember then it looks in that first pic too. Its a stock 5.3 truck pan.

 

Do any of you guys with the 95+ trucks have pics of the motor up against the firewall? Since we're putting motor plates on our build, we don't have anything to reference the motor location. I was just kinda curious. I have a few pictures but I'll have to wait until later today to upload them. Our crossmember looks alot like the black extended cab that started his own build thread (Drag S10)

 

In those pics it looks like he has the motor mounts (engine side) backwards from what I have mine. They didnt come with any instructions, so I dont know what way is the "right way." The engine does fit either direction. Im using the h3 pan and I have great clearence.

 

I thought about it for a while and even tried swapping them and it was nowhere near close to fitting, i do think its a little weird that its all the way forward in the slots but it fits nice, their is no room to slide it back though and take advantage of the slots. I put them the same was as i saw others were set up in this thread. One is short and one is longer, these lined up nice and the motor is level, i dont think it would be if they were backwards.

Do you have any pictures of yours?

 

these are pictures of PhilinTX truck, good shots of the mounts for comparison.




and mine.



i just went out and checked again, they are set up the exact same way. The longer mounts is on the passenger side.

 

what kind of clearance do you have from the pan to the ground... i love the way the h3 pan fits but my blazer is lowered 4/4 and i don't want to bust it on anything.. i'm thinking about maybe buildin me a skid plate just for it.

 

I have to keep my "tall" mount on the drivers side. otherwise the valve cover hits the booster... the motor is offset to the pass side, that also gives me more room on the steering. I think this is the only way the mounts will work unless you have modified the truck. my oil pan doesnt stick down lower than my crossmember- its about level. I prob will be adding a little skid plate just to make my mind at ease. my truck is lowered (zq8 + spindles) pics to come--- ****, for the price I paid for the h3 pan, there is no reason to go with any other set-up. no notching, no welding aluminum, comes with the gaskets, oil filter adapter, bolts- EVERYTHING! too bad thins thing didnt come out four or five years ago....