My truck is at dads in the shop, ill try to snap some header pics in and out if the truck, ive got to get em coated !!! they rusted over the winter look like shat! ... Thanks for the pics Frank...

 

No problem. maybe they'll help out a little bit for ya.

 

Some pics of the mock up. I need to build a mount for the heim so it can be removed easily. The booster is a malibu, the pan is h3, the mounts are carshop. The arms and steering parts came from ub machine.

 

Took some new pics this weekend but I forgot about the steering through the top. The column wasnt "in" it anyway so probably couldnt see exactly what was going on. (in place just for scaling purposes)

It looks alot like that picture, except through the header tubes, and it goes through the crossmember.

 

here is a old pic of the steering, it goes between cyl 3&5 through the crossmember and out to the rack. with 3 u joints and 1 stablizer heim.

 

You guys are going to cry after you se my header pics , in going to take some this weekend 1-7/8 longtubes in the frame and nothing below the frame on the bottom also equal lenth can you say sumbeach!!!!

 

Hey Frank , I seen you had a plate where the brake booster was i done the same thing and used a willwood manual mc and the pedal is ROCK hard! yall thought about pedal ratio? think were going to have to do something there! Any ideas, im thinkin move the pivot bolt down and redrill it in the truck, then shorten the pedal from the pivot to where the rod hooks but im not sure, was tolt those mc's take a 8:1 ratio...ours is 5:1 i think for power brakes but more leverage should up the ratio i think...

 

I dont know on the pedal ratio. we went with a 1 1/8 bore strange m/c. might have be in the same boat as u. we are using aerospace brakes in the front and rear. the rears are the dual caliper ones. I know on franks truck those made the pedal real soft.

 

I have about 1" of pedal tavel then it is just gets hard i have to push like hell to get it to stop its got stock front brakes and would stop on a dime on a 109 mph pass with the power brakes. older s-10s stopped fine with manual brakes i think its got to do with the pedal but i dunno..

 

We're gonna try it and see but I figure it may have to be moved.

 

Ill post yall up some pics if i figure it out it will be a week or two dash is coming out for cage and ill change it then...

 

 

man this thread just keeps growing. lol.

 

I have a 2000 Reg Cab Sonoma 2.2l 1 tire fire w/ 141,000 miles. Also have a spare ls1 longblock and 4l60-e trans in my garage.... i think its itching to find a new home under the hood of the sonoma. I've researched this a few times but still have some more questions if you guys could help me out. I know i want to run C5 vette accesories.

1.) For the 4l60-e, do i want the f-body tailshaft?
2.) What type of trans crossmember are you running?
3.) Any driveshaft shortening needed?
4.) Whats the go-to rear-end to get a limited slip setup? Stock f-body rear ends work?
5.) What are you using for computer and wiring harness?
6.) Whats the best oil pan ATM, i know some use vette pans and truck pans... whats the one to go with?
7.) Are you using the stock AC system, or the C5 ac accessories?
8.) What are some nice headers that fit the conversion nicely?

Thanks!

 

LMAO 1 tire fire. God i love when people say that!

 

Just curious, after looking at my '99 F-body manifolds today and pondering while i had nothing better to do. Will a set of F-body shorties fit our trucks? I cant imagine they would be too far off, maybe fit with a little persuasion?

Anyone tried it? Sorry if its been discussed, i cant remeber everything in this thread.

 

I bet they will. the header maybe a little thicker. (as far as distance away from the head)

 

This is a set of BBK shorties with 1-3/4" primaries. The tubes look like they tuck pretty tight for steering shaft clearance, and clearance isn't much of an issue on the passenger side, as long as the flange clears the firewall and leaves room to route a pipe off it....i think it may work.




These edelbrocks with 1-5/8" primaries look like the tuck pretty tight too. You may have to hack off the flange on them and weld an extension like on the stock manifolds..but for the bigger primaries, it may be worth it.

 

for the price to try the f-body headers you can get the sanderson shorty ls1/s-10 headers for $225, they fit very good and come with collectors

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/prod...roducts_id=191

 

i agree, but alot of people complain of the small 1.5" primaries.