The G-Body Swap Thread
09-15-2009, 12:15 PM
#181
Moved the engine off of the cradle and on the rotisserie to add CTS-V pan
(Complete with dino drippings) Is it too early for Thanksgiving?
One of the issues I ran in to swapping the GTO pan to the CTS-V pan was the GTO pan has the dip stick hole integrated into the pan. What I found was that there is a plug that you just need to tap out in the LS2 block with a punch to use the CTS-V oil dip stick..
Here is the location of the hole for the CTS-V dipstick
(Complete with dino drippings) Is it too early for Thanksgiving?
One of the issues I ran in to swapping the GTO pan to the CTS-V pan was the GTO pan has the dip stick hole integrated into the pan. What I found was that there is a plug that you just need to tap out in the LS2 block with a punch to use the CTS-V oil dip stick..
Here is the location of the hole for the CTS-V dipstick
09-20-2009, 07:26 AM
#183
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ah ha. those are the pics i needed. i can clearly tell the steering box is different than mine. i'm going to try to get a GN box, which looks the same as that one. The shape of the steering box in my car wasnt giving me enough clearance on the alternator. Thanks for the pics.
09-20-2009, 02:32 PM
#185
I'm putting a 403 based LS motor in my 82 Monte also, however I'm building my motor from scratch. I've done a few modifications to my frame which include notching the front crossmember. As for motor mounts, I'm going with Spohn which looks to be close to John B mounts. Someone in another thread (forgot who) stated that TSP headers fit very good and the only modification needed was the trimming of the ears off of his TH400trans. He was also using mounts that placed the motor in the stock location.
09-22-2009, 09:48 AM
#188
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ok just ripped thru this whole thread.
im getting my ducks in a row for a possible el camino swap project...
is there any good cheap disc brake rear end we could use for the swap?
Ive seen the grand national rear axle with a disc conversion used a fiew times, but the gn axles arnt in every junk yard, and the conversion kit seems to be another high ticket item to buy... I was wondering if there is a good donor axle that will swap right in? s10? Silverado? other brand like a dodge derango?
im getting my ducks in a row for a possible el camino swap project...
is there any good cheap disc brake rear end we could use for the swap?
Ive seen the grand national rear axle with a disc conversion used a fiew times, but the gn axles arnt in every junk yard, and the conversion kit seems to be another high ticket item to buy... I was wondering if there is a good donor axle that will swap right in? s10? Silverado? other brand like a dodge derango?
09-22-2009, 06:29 PM
#189
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Not a problem on the pics...I also thought I was gunna have clearance issues with the heater box, but I swapped the F-body coils and brackets out for a set of the truck brackets and coils. Don't know if the ones without the heatsinks would help alot, but the one's with the heatsinks on the top of the coil sit higher on the valve cover toward the intake and they clear pretty nice. Guess that would all depend on motor location and such as well
Cudaeh...i swapped the rearend of my monte for the GN like you mentioned and actually used some LT1 camaro disc brakes... just gotta drill two holes and have the brackets the bolt to the rearend cut down some so the disc doesnt hit the caliper bracket
Cudaeh...i swapped the rearend of my monte for the GN like you mentioned and actually used some LT1 camaro disc brakes... just gotta drill two holes and have the brackets the bolt to the rearend cut down some so the disc doesnt hit the caliper bracket
09-27-2009, 11:44 AM
#192
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Yeah I don't have the money right now either...really would like to take the car to the lsx shootout so not sure what I'm gunna do. Just few more things left and it'll be driveable, but not completely done.
09-30-2009, 01:53 PM
#193
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heater box removal?? I've been looking high and low, and can't find how to remove the lower heater box off our G-bodies. The top comes off easily, and I've unbolted the lower from the firewall, and removed the linkage to the ac/heater flapper valve, but there's still something holding it in!
The whole box moves up and down a couple inches, but I'm not sure if there's something inside that needs to be removed? I don't want to mess anything up, just want to take it out, so I can fix my shoenfeld headers in, then modify as needed.
I made my own adapter plates to fit to the stock a-frame clamshell motor mounts that set the engine back a few inches.
thanks in advance!
The whole box moves up and down a couple inches, but I'm not sure if there's something inside that needs to be removed? I don't want to mess anything up, just want to take it out, so I can fix my shoenfeld headers in, then modify as needed.
I made my own adapter plates to fit to the stock a-frame clamshell motor mounts that set the engine back a few inches.
thanks in advance!
10-01-2009, 05:48 PM
#195
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OK, i have the engine sitting in the car, with the BRP mounts and the K member cut. F body engine and oil pan. My dilemma is the AC compressor. The back hits the frame and there is minimal clearance on the side. I'm wondering if there is a sanden compressor that solves this problem? anyone know?
10-01-2009, 09:58 PM
#197
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Put the wheels and tires on and set the car on the ground...the left rear tire rubs the frame rail some but the right rear doesn't? Any ideas why? I've also got some problems up front...any bodies car have a huge gap between the fender and top of the tire. My car looks like its got a lift kit in the front and is four wheel drive. Is the ls motor really that much lighter or is there another reason for this?
10-02-2009, 07:39 AM
#198
The rear is probably in a bind from being on jack stands and will re-center itself after you move the car a few feet....same story up front, once you roll the car either forward or backwards several feet the car will re-settle and the large gap between the front tire and fender will go away. The weight difference with the LS motor may raise the front about 1/2" over the stock motor once settled.
10-03-2009, 09:29 AM
#200
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The rear is probably in a bind from being on jack stands and will re-center itself after you move the car a few feet....same story up front, once you roll the car either forward or backwards several feet the car will re-settle and the large gap between the front tire and fender will go away. The weight difference with the LS motor may raise the front about 1/2" over the stock motor once settled.