The G-Body Swap Thread
oh btw pics are always nice. Last edited by 85GPLEf41; May 31, 2012 at 02:22 AM. Reason: spell check
Unless I missed it...(took 3 days to read it), I never saw an answer to these. I saw people ask, I saw people reply but none confimred.
I am going with a LS1 drop out from a 1998 Z-28.
1) What engine mounts? I want A/C I dont want to mod the case or box. AND id like to leave the a/c compressor on it low.
2) Will the stock manifolds fit? I am not running cats!
3) I am buying a CTS-V oil pan, it will clear yes?
I am also, building a list of step by step for this swap. This way there would be another great thread with pictures!
Unless I missed it...(took 3 days to read it), I never saw an answer to these. I saw people ask, I saw people reply but none confimred.
I am going with a LS1 drop out from a 1998 Z-28.
1) What engine mounts? I want A/C I dont want to mod the case or box. AND id like to leave the a/c compressor on it low.
2) Will the stock manifolds fit? I am not running cats!
3) I am buying a CTS-V oil pan, it will clear yes?
I am also, building a list of step by step for this swap. This way there would be another great thread with pictures!
2. My stock ls1 manifolds clear good. haven't tried the trans linkage yet though.. as for the cats i have to run them, decided to use stock cats for now... If you don't need them then you should be good.
3. CTS-V oil pan fits great with those mounts!! BUT your a/c & alt won't... I used speedway motors high mount alt kit. There are a myriad of different routes to go. The kWiK performance brackets are a good option. Also i had coil interference with my non a/c heater case not sure if the a/c version does too though. I tried my block off plate and it had a PLENTY of clearance! We just notched the box for clearance...don't know if the BRP mounts work with the pan i would believe so..
plenty of pics on my Photobucket account..
http://s387.photobucket.com/profile/netochingon1
plenty of pics on my Photobucket account..
http://s387.photobucket.com/profile/netochingon1
I did read in this post that there are guys with the stock Zero offset and fitting the a/c and alternator.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Any advise on which and quality / cost?
Also, mine will be return-less fuel system. How much an line will I need to go from the tank to the engine?
I will say the transdapt 4595 plates and mounts are sorry... I used just the plates with my factory clamshells and frame mounts. Buy just the plates and mod them if necessary. As for the fuel line i have emissions to go through so that's a whole different story.. I am hoping to use a racetronix pump with a Corvette regulator. If it works then i will switch my fuel rail from drivers side to passenger side.. The Evap portion still has me puzzled...
The kick out/flare out etc of the driver side. Depending on all the shifter linkage clearance I may heat this up and attempt to bend them inwards a little.
Rear shot

Driver

Passenger
I want to braze fittings on the each end to run -8an I think from hard line to the rails. And -8an from rear of the hard line to the filter/regulator then -8an from feed of the tank to regulator and -6an from return of the tank to the return side of the regulator.
for you guys running a/c in you g-body, im looking to use the factory G-body HVAC system and either merge it with the f-body condenser/compressor or maybe the smaller sanden 508(mounted in the f-body bracket down low). has anyone done a similar setup or what did you use if you chose a different route?
Been wondering a little about A/C as well. I know a frame notch is pretty much necessary if you use adapter plates. And BRP I think no notching is needed.
I wonder how a custom bracket would do to push a Sanden compressor out further to line up with rest of the pulley's??
Like this


Or

With the factory truck bracket and compressor maybe even the car compressor & bracket, I think the end of the compressor/bracket hits the mounts with 1in setback plates (for those using that setup)
I would think a custom bracket like above but push it more forward so it's no longer running on its own belt if you use a new Sanden Compressor.










